HazBeen

6 on! Now we let it dry for a few days, then put it together.

2 coats and counting

I thought about doing it, but my magnets are all used up and since I do have screws I am going to fix in place with 1 screw. For the pic it was just placed in position, smoke and mirrors

Pretty happy, neck attached to correctly place bridge. And just fit the tunes etc for fun. Going to be a sweet bass….. Put the strings and remaining hardware on top to weigh it = 3.6kg. Oil finish weighs nothing, so pretty close to end weight I’d say.

Shielding done and neck ferrules in too….! Basically just a shed load of sanding to do now and finishing with oil.

And 1 Bubinga headstock cap and trussrod cover …. Check! intentionally left the cap sit a little proud, I think it looks really cool that way.

Consensus I think is natural, and also has me preference. Nice, saved myself some work there

So the question is……. What to do with the body. Initially I thought about staining it black. Maybe doing a black burst and then finishing with lacquer. But the more I look at the alder - it is quite figured for Alder - I am thinking oil finish/ no extra colour. With the dark neck, a light body is quite nice. And for sure no pickguard methinks. I have never done an oil only finish on alder before. Pls note sanding is still only up to 80/120 grit at the moment. Open to audience opinions and ideas 😂

Neck in Not the tightest I have ever done…… but pretty solid fit and certainly more than fine for my skill level.

As I am back from my holiday, I thought I’d get back into the bass. Control and pickup cavities done, and made the template for the neck (will route that next time).

I’ve had the Markbass Ninja 500 210 combo for a while now, great sounding, simple, compact, light. Today I bought a gently used Markbass 102p 2x10. They stack up perfectly, giving me a “line array” vertical 4x10 500 watt stack. Good for me

I have to admit that I didn’t get a kick out of this, it is probably due to a Stingray sounding like a Stingray due to the pickup position, not the preamp (well, preamp has significantly less impact) and there are already shorty Rays around. The type of thing that marketing departments come up with. The main thing clearly is that the bass will sound great, so congrats if you bought one, and I do think TC needs to be recognized for being awesome so a signature bass is certainly appropriate.

Yeah, an 8” machine methinks? Will do lots of good things for you I have a very similar one.

Some people just prefer lined fretless……. Bunny Brunel, Gary Willis, Kyle Eastwood, HazBeen ….. okay the last one is a joke 🤪

I get them local, so not of much use. Dimension wise, I always use 5mm x 2mm magnets, same size for cavity and hatch. Trussrod covers I use 2mmx1mm ones. The pull on my 5x2s is a little higher, 0.5kg.

Smart, I do not know anyone who has built from scratch to stop after one. 😀😎

Has to be said, not bad attempts. With frets in much more complicated, so well done.

And here!

Horrible news…. RIP

Horses for courses, but block inlay appears to be your best bet. In my experience pre-radiusing works, but you will almost certainly need to sand a little once in place. Not an issue if you do it carefully. It will be a challenge to route the block cavities with the frets on. If it were me, I would likely take frets out, do the inlays, radius and then refret. More work, but easier to get right. All part of the process, so hope you can forgive yourself and enjoy the journey. Mistakes are what drives progress.

Really if you mess up, first thing is to see if you can fix it and make it (near) invisible. Have you already taken the 2mm off? If so, can you reduce the other side with 2mm also? 5 strings, mean 4 string spacings or 1mm reduced spacing per string. That may still work, dependent on your starting point. Otherwise block inlays may work, but that is another challenge to get right then…