SimonH

Smooth dealings with Matt. Easy peasy, 100% no probs. Cheers fella.

Another seamless transaction with Russ. Fine, upstanding chap.

Might have been said already but, for me, where the bass 'sits' in relation to the drums can also be about where the emphasis of each note falls - in front, on or behind the beat. It's a subtlety in how your fingers (or pick, etc) attack the strings - and about the attack of the note - as much as a mathematical description or a physics lesson. To my ears, slap is the one technique you can't push or pull the beat with; the attack is too instant. With fingers or a pick, you can kind of drag them over the string and alter the shape of the note envelope. I play with a drummer who's like a metronome and is a joy because I know exactly when the next beat is coming; I've also played with a drummer whose right foot had a mind of its own and every song was like a huge guessing game. It was terrible. Anyway, the good drummer once started a song a little slowly for my taste, so I started to play in front of the beat and push it along. He ignored me and carried on. So, a bit frustrated, I dropped back onto the beat, and it sounded to me like a funeral dirge, really plodding along. No life at all. Then I dropped back and started playing just behind the tempo - and the track suddenly developed a groove that felt amazing. The tempo didn't change, but the feel of the song was completely different. Of course, as usual, everyone in the audience was drunk and no-one cared anyway. But hey-ho. It mattered to me.

I was a bit gumpy - no, very grumpy. First of all, a couple of exploratory bids earlier in the week were initially shown as not making the reserve, so I thought great, I've seen something I want more. Then, in the last half hour, the reserves on the items I no longer wanted were lifted, showing me as in the lead. So I thought balls, can they drop the reserve just before the bidding ends, and would that mean my bid is 'live' again? But then the site went down (not my connection!) in the last 5 mins and I couldn't bid on anything. A friend (for whom the site also went down) who was initially told by email he'd won a desk at a giveaway price then received an email saying due to the fault the auction was null and would be rerun. I got an email saying the auction would be rerun too, but not specifying if it would all all lots, some lots, or different lots. I replied and asked, but no reply. And then it turns out some people had their auctions honoured. If you ask me, I think the whole thing was a massive scam or a massive cock up. If some people got stuff they wanted, I'm glad but, otherwise, I think it's grossly dishonest of either Peavey, the auctioneers, or of the website. Or all of them. Bah.

I hear your point, and understand - I would only ever use the 2x10 with the 15, and I was thinking along the lines of copying a MB 2x10 combo and 15in cab set-up... that seems to be a popular combination. And in my head, using a 2x10 4ohm cab pulling the full 600w from the head seems 'harder work' for the speakers than a pair of 2x10s running at 8ohms pulling 320w... But I take your point. If you think a 2x10 running a pair of 500w 8ohm drivers to a total of 4ohms will work, I'll do that! Thanks for your help!

Hi chaps - help! I have an empty GK 2x10 cab I would like bring back to life. I currently use a 15in MB cab rated 400w at 8ohm and a 4x10 MB rated 800w at 8ohm. The head is a MB Momark 600w frame, runs down to 4ohms. I want the option to run my refreshed 2x10 either on its own, or in tandem with either of the other two cabs. If I have a pair of 10in cones rated at 8ohm 500w each, what config can I use to run the cab solo, or as a pair with either of the other two? Or is that simply not safe/possible? If I wire the new cones in parallel as 4ohm total, that will give 1000w at 4ohms and will handle the Momark head. But then I can't run them as a pair with, say, the 15in. If I wire them in series as a 16ohm load, that will be 1000w at 16ohm - will the Momark be ok running that, what will it sound like, and can I then match the new cab with either of the MB cabs? Thanks, and sorry if I'm being thick. Simon H

Big ACG love here. I've been thinking along those lines. I'm gonna have to try one!

Thank you for the offer ead - I'm a ways from Chorley tho, out in the Fens. I wonder why guitar boards are radiused in the first place?

I saw that 120v thing too, but I checked the back of the head and all the VB3s said 120 - 240v supply... yeah, I just checked online and...[list] [*]Universal switching power supply [/list] Don't know what that means?

I've been up to the site and had a look round. A lot of stuff at the front of the auction is ex-endorsed gear returned from tours; some looks tatty, some looks mint. You'd need to go to the site to work out which was which. I asked a couple of soon-to-be-ex-employees if the kit was working, and they all said, basically, yes, it 'should' be, and anyone was welcome to try anything out - nothing was being brushed under. The later stock (on the list) is in the warehouse and in better nick - but, again, no returns or guarantees. The very last few items, and the guitars, are in the demo area and are presumably ok - although some of the basses had knobs missing and shafts split - which would be a pain on a push/pull pot. The whole site is for sale - they're clearing everything. There are whole pallets of ply, tolex, fixing and fasteners, cones etc, as well as bandsaws, a lathe, tooling etc. If you wanted to start a business building speaker cabs, this is what you'd need. And some space. Another thing - if you bid on Trace heads, bid on the US made 1200 and 600w heads, not the 1000w and 500w UK heads. They look and feel rubbish. And don't bid on anything I am. :-)

Hi - done a quick forum search and couldn't find an answer, so apologies if this is old hat, but... I'm thinking of my *next* bass (14 and counting)... and I've decided there's something, er, 'playable' about the look of a zero, or very wide, radius fingerboard. I keep looking at pics of ACG, Shuker and, I think, Vigier boards and they just look super fast and super low action (I know string height is nothing to do with fingerboard profile; it's an optical thing). Anyway, my question is: what are your opinions on what a zero radius fingerboard feels like (before I slink off and find one to try)? Are they generally said to have a particular characteristic that radiused boards do or don't? For context, I like the 305mm radius that Ibanez use on their ATKs, SRs and RDs... Thanking you kindly...