mrcrow

you may have to drill out the bridge holes for the strings..some bridges have tight fit holes... especially those double wound strings with big bulgy ends and all the wrappings making life impossible

[quote name='tarcher' post='675171' date='Dec 5 2009, 06:44 PM']Just one channell and one input,no effects loop. [sub][b]For dry to wet blend I have a shower and hairdryer[/b][/sub](best not to use them at the same time) I shall proceed with caution and all volume settings on min and carefully raise them till I find a balance that works. Thanks for the swift reply[/quote] dont you dare put those hair tongs in the combo with the drums as well...

[url="http://img6.imageshack.us/i/19474625.jpg/"][/url] good pose...you poser

you are a real engineer!! my vote is for the black knobs...pups and bridge...i have some fender ex precision type but only 2...even so the black feels good..they are plastic and warm to the touch cheers [url="http://img69.imageshack.us/i/pc050098.jpg/"][/url]

[quote name='rjb' post='674703' date='Dec 5 2009, 06:57 AM']Did you try raising the pickups so they are nearer the strings? This can make a big difference.[/quote] if you dont know what the distance should be use the standard fender set up fret the last fret and set the distance to around 3mm...1/8" from the bottom of the strings to the top of the poles or casing on the pup... even though this is an active bass...re: the battery....you dont need to plug it into the active socket some actives have less output than some passives.. any help?

i got a set of cheap socket spanners from woolies...long time ago which worked ok on my rick twin rods but didnt need to be right angled i would try the pound shops...could be there are some mickey mouse sets there with an item in them to do the job any socket will do so long as it fits!!

my first guess would be that all is ok providing you set the various inputs to 0 and then increase them to get a balance within the clip of the preamp... i have preamp clip led so i can see whats going on also my combo has an effects send...and importantly return...and a dry to wet blend so that any effects can be set anywhere 0-10 relative to the main input any good?

[quote name='Moos3h' post='674974' date='Dec 5 2009, 02:56 PM']Nut height can affect intonation, I believe. So can old, knackered or cheap strings. Oh, and pickup height too![/quote] +1 just been doing that now with fitting a new bridge i stick to the tunings on harmonics frets 5/7 and the intonation on fret 12 i was checking out of interest the harmonics on fret 3 to 24th fretted note...quite good on G D and E but A string was out on the top A i seem to recall also apart from what Moos3h says is that frets ideally should be fanned in a pattern which ends in the angle of the saddles after setting intonation my A saddle is further back than the E so i reckon my A string is a bit stiff around its end where it meets the bridge and so may account for my findings for me as i dont play above the 12th fret really setting intonation on that area is sufficient for my needs

Bridge arrived next day really well wrapped Big + for Matt Cheers Geof ps...neep also can be spelled.......tumshie..

[quote name='ahpook' post='644950' date='Nov 4 2009, 07:34 AM']put a switch in - it'll cover the hole and you can call it what you like. "the bass isn't really cutting through" "hang on, i'll switch the resonance divider parameter loading" /click/ "cool - that sounds much better" [/quote] exactly...you may need that hole someday i put a little plastic cap thingy off of my diy kitchen cabinet left overs..the colour was beige just a dab of bostik and it sits there...or they do...they covered the holes used for a bridge ashtray on my fender

where the wires leave the pup bobbin...not to easy to see...but in there a fault can occur especially if the wires have been tugged

string to pup height check..!! the P lets you get all the strings set correctly funnily enough any time i used flats the E was the most disappointing...

[quote name='waylander' post='672933' date='Dec 3 2009, 10:29 AM']Hey guys Ive always had slight fret buzz when playin my guitar but put thtat down to my lack of experience at playing, and it not being a great guitar ( i have a Gear 4 Music 4 string bass). but my bass teacher suggested i got the action lowered as it was quite high and he thought that might reduce the buzz. so took it to a music shop and got them to lower the action for me, trouble is since i got it home its WORSE!!! if i try and play any string on the 1st to 5th frets i get alot of buzz and then frets after that is on and off. Any suggestions or thoughs ? (other then buy a better guitar :-p)[/quote] go cool man even the best guitar can be lousy if not set up properly...and the worst guitar ..perfect! the people you took it to will probably be able to assess the fret alignment if that is ok then get the bow set...frets 1-9 approx then the action...higher gets rid of buzz and it should occur now only in the upper frets near the end of the neck this means raising the saddles and retuning after each movement...recheck for buzz till its gone on each string fretting at the 12th fret...thats the one i use then after all is set...get the intonation set... then the pup heights to the new string architecture and you are away with a perfectly set up bass its costly unless you learn to do it yourself...then you wonder why you are charged so much... hope you can get it solved without too much hassle cheers

[quote name='Sibob' post='673155' date='Dec 3 2009, 01:30 PM']So Jon received the neck earlier today, emailed me just now and said that he's got the old rod out, and after some fiddling (with the other rod I presume), should be able to get a new one into the neck! Fingers crossed Very glad to have potentially saved the wood, although not out of the woods yet Si[/quote] santa lives in hope

[quote name='Paul_C' post='672210' date='Dec 2 2009, 04:12 PM'][b]one of the unusual things about Rickenbacker rods is that they can be pulled out of the neck and replaced, without needing any surgery to do so[/b][/quote] dohhh i really made a mess of mine...i rotated them or at least one of them...the anchor plate at the headstock was beginning to sink into the wood

[quote name='TBFUS' post='669716' date='Nov 30 2009, 03:41 AM']Where could I get the switch and is it mounted where the preamp is hid, and will there be some routing done which I would be trying to avid changing my look?? Thanks alot![/quote] i got a mini switch double pole..on/on mounting it anywhere will do the job...you run wires from the batt to it...and then back to the preamp.. so cutting off both send and return from the battery the position is easiest in an area where there is scratchplate as the mounting part isnt very long [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150390853407"]here is one on ebay[/url] it has 6 contacts actually 2 lots of 3..its two switches in one ..you only use 4...the middle ones to the battery +/-...the any of the outer ones to the preamp the other 2 contacts are redundant in this use... i got an led from an old something or other and mounted it next to the switch as an indicator it was on or off but i do believe a led switch is available..i googled but havent come up with one yet

[quote name='Sibob' post='672168' date='Dec 2 2009, 03:26 PM']I think this is the part that determines if a neck is a write-off or not Because it's a bound neck, I'm not sure if steaming the fretboard off works in the same way, or even if it's still a valid technique....not being of any kind of Luthier stock. Si[/quote] i have a shuker bass and jon told me its a two way rod..whatever that means...and looking at my bass...the freboard is maple on a maple neck verrrrrrrrrrrrryyy tight joint between the two..in fact it looks like a solid neck...but no skunk stripe its a pit a neck needs to be so bound up since a truss rod can be a problem virtually from day 1... i used to think the rod was just screwed into a nut at the other end from the end you adjust it...a simple bolt..or so to speak but i found to my chagrin after b***ering up a rick that the rods are flat and cant be rotated...at least not on the rick i found my freboard beginning to part company with the neck wood....and didnt know how to cure it eventually i did get the rod..s..to rotate back to where they should have been and sold it on to someone more able to do a full correction...at a vast loss in ££

[quote name='spinynorman' post='671934' date='Dec 2 2009, 10:53 AM']I found this by accident. [url="http://www.tothestage.com/upload/FretboardCare2_1879.pdf"]http://www.tothestage.com/upload/FretboardCare2_1879.pdf[/url] Looks like a bit of a commercial for Planet Waves. My fretboard care amounts to a rub with lemon oil, maybe, if I have time, on the rare occasion I have the strings off. Like once every ten years. Am I storing up trouble?[/quote] are some fretboards varnished...i think rickenbackers are...and some fretless jobs have been epoxied

i must say i did forget about the shearing aspect of truss rod misuse it may be the overtightening did just that...sheared the thread or the actual body of the rod jon'll fixit how one gets into a truss rod after all the neck is built must be a real luthier job anyway

[quote name='AM1' post='670456' date='Nov 30 2009, 09:28 PM']No. If tuning finally snapped the rod, it was already over-adjusted. Tiny, slow, measured adjustments over time and patience is fairly crucial.[/quote] the rod is resisting/balancing compression by supplying tension..its a tie rod i takes a helluva lot of load to break a tie rod if it is sound and has not material defects also if its steel then it should go plastic and deform first...it is an elastic material...hookes law so i think the threaded parts have come away from their anchors...which i presume are also metal..steel and the thread flanks have sheared...stripped the thread when you get this out i would really be interested in the actual failure...the rod...its anchorages in steel or its anchorages in the wood.

[quote name='neepheid' post='578970' date='Aug 24 2009, 11:43 AM']As the subject says really. The frets on my Gibson G-3 are pretty worn - too worn to dress imo. If I was to get it refretted (by someone who knows what they're doing), would it be detrimental to the value of the instrument in the same way as for instance refinishing?[/quote] on a really old bass..well played over the years there must be some repair and refurbishment done renewing frets isnt the same as changing neck..even though that is a possibility are your frets original...? its the quality of work and materials so that the finished job is 'indistinguishable from the original'

as the guys say...just use cleaner...it doesnt have to be from 1970...and the pots dont know that anyway i have got rid of crackle by turning up and down a few times... if you need new pots..whots your take on joe bloggs swap ins?...they do the job ok and are up to date with track materials and windings...