mrcrow

i am a 047 man...my shuker has a 090...and i have seen 022 for me 047 with standard 250 pots

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='656040' date='Nov 16 2009, 03:45 PM']And on some basses (like Fenders) the bridge pup can be slightly longer than the neck pup. just something to watch out for.[/quote] check dave! that is the true matched pair...should be wound so that the bridge pup gives more output... a bart set is like that...

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='656260' date='Nov 16 2009, 07:15 PM']Looks like you could cut some black plastic (scratchplate offcut?) and warm it a little to make a new one.[/quote] thats the cheapest and most practical option...no one will see it so long as its black... look for some scrap abs resin plastic...its tough and easy to cut and shape.... the jack and socket dont know whats holding them in place..

[quote name='zero9' post='654501' date='Nov 14 2009, 02:31 PM']Just replaced my standard US precision pickup with a Villex VP pickup (split type only, no bridge pickup). Totally passive system with a mid 'shape' control, usual tone control and volume. The range of sounds is incredible for a passive system. Can go from thunderous lows with crisp highs to a more standard 'p' sound.[/quote] villex seem to have designed a pup with good vibes they arent available in the UK

[quote name='~tl' post='653074' date='Nov 12 2009, 09:19 PM']If the string is sharp when fretted on the 12th, then you need to move the saddle back (away from the neck). I like to use a tuner and compare the open string with the fretted 12th fret. I generally tune up the string, fret the 12th, adjust the saddle if necessary and repeat the process until the open and 12th are both in tune on the tuner. Should only take a few minutes once you get the hang of it, and you should really do it every time you change strings or adjust the saddle heights.[/quote] setting intonation to harmonics is recommended...that is what is being adjusted the string harmonic at the 12th fret should be the same pitch as the fretted note..the movement of the saddle ensures this if the fretted note is sharp...move the saddle back...and vice versa retune the open string and do again...until both harmonic and fretted are the same its as i was taught..and of course a tuner is a must

[quote name='beerdragon' post='652895' date='Nov 12 2009, 06:44 PM']Showing my lack of PUP knowledge here. But are Bridge and neck P/ups wired the same? i wondered what would happen it say, asked Wizard Pickups for my own requirements. What i'm after really is a growl similar to a Warwick on a Jazz. i have a feeling it's Amp and Speaker i need to get it rather than Pups. anyone with some suggestions.?[/quote] wired the same..yes...hot to centre pin ground to pin 3 or 1 whatever the convention is they are [b]wound[/b] differently so as to buck hum when used together they need to be purchased in pairs..but only for that reason

[quote name='silentbob' post='654823' date='Nov 14 2009, 08:41 PM']Hi, i have decided to replace all of the components in my Vintage Stingray copy and have today received the new pick-up. The new pick-up has more wires than the one i took out, so i was just wondering if anybody could offer some advice as to why that would be and where they sould go. The old p-up has a large grey covering containing some multi-strand wires surrounding smaller red and white wires. The multi-strand and the red wire were soldered to the right hand tab of the volume pot, and the white was soldered to the middle tab. The new one also has a large grey covering, but contains a large black wire, and smaller yellow, red and white wires, the red and white being soldered together. Any help with this would be much appreciated. Thanks Rob[/quote] the first wiring seems to be a hot to pin white.......... and a ground red..along with the multi strand shield simply hot and ground...so if its a stingray pup style it must be wired internally parallel...that is how musicmen are wired stock [i]you know that red would normally be a hot...if its on the ground then your pup is wired single coil...the red should be on with the white and the multi strand is ground...strange[/i] the second wiring is a set of wires for each coil so that series parallel and single coil can be wired if a selector switch is available if not then the normal colour codes are...white/black red/yellow white and red are hot black and yellow are ground wire the white and red to the centre pin since they are soldered to each other anyway that is parallel wiring and the black and yellow to the ground pin there doesnt seem to be a shield in your second pup wiring...not all have them that is a start rob..hope its a help

initially try to get the pup out and then resolder it to the pot as suggested a meter is your friend when you learn to use it if you arent technical then all the checks advised need to be done by someone else resoldering all joints can be a step forward in elimination cheers geof

i think stings has the body chamfer mine is similar [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/34963887@N02/sets/72157621683978205/show/"]but different[/url] and is in the for sale section

anything that mrscrow has under the sink

[quote name='ahpook' post='640470' date='Oct 29 2009, 08:31 PM']i bought some pyramid golds for my epiphone jack casady, and to be honest i prefer the sound of it with roundwounds. i'm looking at my musicman sabre as a possible candidate for the flatties. anyone out there using flatties with a MM ? tbh i thought musicmans were all about twang[/quote] flats are for flatty music its rounds for me unless the flats are thomastik i never used flats on my ray5...i just loved the sound without even trying them

i have used and really like the thomastik jazz series bass strings i have used rounds and flats their website doesnt show flats now...strange as i thought they were the best i have tried...against roto and elites i see they may be still available from our string suppliers... anyone use them and found them to be permanently out of stock?

didnt know bassists used amps smaller than 100 my combo is 100 and is ok for the quiet places i play..churches i was on pa once but the same booming etc i think it lies with your desk and sound man personally i didnt like being on pa as i wanted to be in control of sound and tone i realise of course this is foolish from a real stage set up but you will find i think most bassists like to have the power and the projection on their patch

[quote name='zero9' post='651585' date='Nov 11 2009, 01:32 PM']I've just had a Villex VP pickup fitted to my P. Comes with a mid control giving a range of sounds from a traditional P to more of a 'scooped' sound. The Villex is much smoother and cleared sounding than the standard US pup. May be worth a look (some sound files on www.villex.com). The output of the Villex pickups is also nearly double that of the standard US pup's. The system is passive. Good luck Wil[/quote] i think their concept is good is there a uk supplier..

[quote name='paganskins' post='651678' date='Nov 11 2009, 03:02 PM']Quick question and apologies if this has been covered before but a search didn't come up with anything useful. Roughly what does a P/J pickup setup sound like wired in series?[/quote] iirc the P is denegrated by the additional J..meaning adding a little too much signal and bass i think they work better as parallel...the whole idea in the first place worth a try though but for me there is enough mud in a P without any help i have a P/J and just use the P for P sound and the J for some focus...parallel best of luck with that

[quote name='Moos3h' post='646136' date='Nov 5 2009, 11:56 AM']I meant to post this a while ago, but I recently bypassed all the electronics in my main bass and just run from the pickup straight to the jack. It's a P-Bass copy with a GFS pickup and it sounds absolutely HUGE as a result. I came to the realisation that almost always, I NEVER touch any of the controls on my passive basses and leave everything on maximum - this is partly why I've never got on with active preamps etc as I have fiddled, but always found myself back at the centre position. (Edited for clarity!) The flipside to having no tonal control on your bass is it forces your to do it with your fingers - I've got more adept at going from wooly thud to biting attack just with the part of my striking fingers I use, or by changing pick type. I then approach EQ on the amp as EQ'ing for the room and not the instrument. Any other players here with this approach? I'm not saying we should all ditch our expensive onboard EQ's etc but try it sometime, it's quite refreshing! It's like having nowhere to hide! Cheers, James[/quote] true when up to the waist in alligators...its hard to remember you only wanted to drain the swamp 1 pup 1 vol no tone let the pre-amp do the walking

[quote name='Jobiebass' post='648166' date='Nov 7 2009, 04:00 PM']As many of you might know I bought Eudes Shuker Pub bass which is 33" scale. I didnt notice too much difference when I first got it in size but now ive been playing that all the time its weird going back to a 34" scale. I was wondering, is 33" classed as short scale? I dont know what defines short scale. Most importantly what other basses have this scale? Thanks guys[/quote] think rickenbacker and all is well..whats an inch?...

[quote name='mpjsols' post='649163' date='Nov 8 2009, 09:33 PM']Ive put some Adagio pros onto my 5 string dearmond bass (Active) and it just sounds too bright.I dont have manual for bass but have tried all settings I can deduce on the knobs but still bright! Played for a couple of weeks a bit better but not good for me. The de armond is longer scale, 2 pickups, active with 5 control knobs. Anyone else find these strings particularly bright or is it tone settings somewhere - baffles me if it is! I'm new on hear and would appreciate any help.[/quote] i hate stainless..they are merciless on the fingers and wont die fast enough so i buy nickel and wait till they die down one really doesnt want to kill good tone to get rid of the zing i have found my bddi tends to warm up the tone and i can vary prescence to take off the top zing without losing valuable BASS tone! that is what i think a bass is...bass