mrcrow

[quote name='spike' post='612247' date='Sep 29 2009, 05:35 PM']That looks like a D6 arpeggio to me. [color="#FF0000"]i didnt put in the octave...sorry your pentatonic does contain a 6th?[/color] For a D major pentatonic scale I'd play A string fret 5 then 7 D string fret 4 then 7 G string fret 4 then 7 For a D minor pentatonic scale I'd play A string fret 5 then 8 D string fret 5 then 7 G string fret 5 then 7[/quote] thats the shape i learned recently i found it comfortable to use E string fret 10 A string fret 9 D string fret 7 D string fret 9...and the octave G string fret 7 the jumps werent so hard for my arthritic fingers

what position and frets do 'we' all use to execute that rock bottom scale of bass tunes for the key of Dmajor Astring fret 5 Dstring fret 4 then 7 Gstring fret 4 its the position i learned in so i tend to go for it..without thinking but i bet others here use different ones over to the panel

[quote name='spinynorman' post='610949' date='Sep 28 2009, 04:11 PM']As your sound is ok playing with guitar and drums, I bet your problem is the keyboard. So you can try all this negotiation about frequency ranges, or you can amputate his left arm with an axe.[/quote] exactly...and thank your lucky stars it isnt a synth...or is it i hate hate hate synths with their stupid sounds set for minus an octave and big left hand dull chord/arpeggio playing its even worse with an organ...doh!!! the keyboard needs to have a line around C below middle C on the keyboard and told to keep above that

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='608053' date='Sep 24 2009, 07:27 PM']Brass is an alloy too of course. Aluminium is not a 'dodgy' metal due to precipitations generally. I suspect that whatever the 'gut' feeling the actual difference is likely to be unnoticeable to the human ear. Therefore go for the cheapest and lightest. Thru body is another possible hype area methinks. Hype rules okay [/quote] you are right brass is an alloy aluminium as commercially used comes in many alloying mixes my guess the bridge stuff is low on stress capabilities...compression especially and i mentions precipitiation since that is why aluminium structures have a lifespan...it suffers from fatique so a bridge which needs to fly 30,000 hours with 2 million stress reversals will not be as good as a copper/zinc competitor hence the new airbus is cost a lot of brass to produce.. ya got me there musssky but i wont have an aluminium bridge...the plating will fall off easily and wont shine so much

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='609653' date='Sep 26 2009, 09:53 PM']I heard a studio had a crocodile clip wired to a spoon for that purpose, clip it to the bridge, and other end tucked into your trousers for humming basses.[/quote] i take it the trousers end was suitably positioned so as not to cause premature ejaculation near the coda

[quote name='Telebass' post='610230' date='Sep 27 2009, 07:18 PM']Posted originally on FDP. Over the last 18 months or so, I've noticed that I'm forever correcting excess neck relief. We're not talking a lot here, but no matter, it always returns. It never gets beyond what I'd call a slightly high action, but does always return. The truss rod adjuster is a fair way down the hole now, around 3/4 inch to the top edge of the nut, and I'm wondering if I have a fault of some sort here. We don't have any great temperature/humidity issue this side of the pond (UK); things move, but not a great deal. This particular P has a very slim front-to-back neck measurement; a little too slim, maybe? Your thoughts appreciated.[/quote] the wood slimness shouldnt really affect matters i dont think its in compression as the truss rod takes the tension my guess is that the anchorag for one end of the rod is altering... on a P iirc the truss rod is adjustable from either the head or tail...body which is yours ps my rickenbacker truss rods disappeared down the neck gradually and i think i had the same problem..the spreader bar was depressing into the neck wood...poor design i put it down to no ricks in my house now

[quote name='BassAgent' post='608781' date='Sep 25 2009, 09:52 PM']Unfortunately, nothing seems to work... One of the washers has decided to break in half and the rest of the tuners aren't what they're supposed to be... However, I don't know what tuners to buy. Hipshot? Schaller? Gotoh? And if so, which types fit my bass? I've heard that Yamaha hardware is regularly "it just doesn't really fit", just like IKEA. I know you can buy parts at Yamaha, but aren't they super duper expensive?[/quote] i know look at their pups...why the F*** they couldnt just keep to fender shape and size....head in hands this kills the credibility of some makers..in fact quite a lot..with their frilly knickers and distant after sales offices if you can get a tuner off...you may find a schaller will do...all it sees is a hole in a headstock and a thickness of wood those are the criteria.. best of luck with that

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='610208' date='Sep 27 2009, 07:00 PM']And, by the way, I'm sure TI Flats will sound great on a '51P.[/quote] i cant wait...got to get the body routed first so i can get into the truss rod...

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='606325' date='Sep 23 2009, 01:11 AM']I was always lead to believe that you adjust the truss rod with the strings slack. Same with the action. You do of course tighten them up between adjustments. Not that i usually follow that rule most of the time. I found some 18" steel rulers on line for about £1.80, they seem to do the job.[/quote] good practice is to slacken between settings for bow action intonation i tend to do intonation on pitch...and move the saddle gently and slowly if slackening off a saddle ..ease it as you unscrew really you will avoid all string rubbing problems if you slacken off for all settings dont forget to set your witness points regarding setting bow...another method is to hold the string on 5th and 9th frets and plink the string at the 7th....it should just clear the fret and give out some sound...you cant use the amp because the string is only vibrating between the 5 and 9 i use it and it gives the lowest and most exact measurement for minimum bow

[quote name='bassatnight' post='609843' date='Sep 27 2009, 09:36 AM']Gents, Whats the best cleaning fluid for a Bass? I particularly mean the body, want to get that brand new shine back! Steve.[/quote] non abrasive cleaners the cleaner the better normal furniture polish for my shuker

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='610169' date='Sep 27 2009, 06:05 PM']Thanks for the suggestions. Flatwound strings and an experience of breakage. Plus I can't actually hear any difference.[/quote] strange since flats were all that was available...way back when but i thank you for that since my 51P is TBS and i want to try flats will probably use TI thinks...maybe way back then is when bridge stringing needed to be introduced...ie the flats..good one cheers geof

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='610107' date='Sep 27 2009, 04:35 PM']I string my Precison through the bridge so the through-body ferrules are not held in by the string. One of them keeps falling out and I either have to keep retrieving it from the floor or store it elsewhere so as not to lose it. Any suggestions besides super-glue for keeping it in place?[/quote] a small piece of sellotape just enough to make the ferrule tight again wound or partially wound round the tubular part glue could affect the paint finish another tip is a tiny bit of blutak...and wipe away the excess... why not TBS?...thats what they are there for...and you can throw away any thoughts on the bridge giving full tone leo wanted it that way

cut the little cable which connects the two halfs dead centre so you have some cable to solder to the one you use will be either a EA half or the DG half the EA long wire is the earth and the DG long wire is the hot but of course using them singly means you can wire them anyway you want hope that helps cheers

[quote name='bassmachine2112' post='609057' date='Sep 26 2009, 09:55 AM']hiho get a sub if the price is right[/quote] 250-300 on ebay

what makes a super jazz, super

[quote name='Wil' post='609370' date='Sep 26 2009, 04:53 PM']I've got schaller locking tuners on my Warmoth Stat and wouldn't go back now. Love 'em. Just makes changing strings that little bit quicker and hassel free, which leaves more time to play the thing.[/quote] this seems to be the OP's point i change my strings around every 3 months average... i sit down with my string winder, string cutters screwdriver, allen key and truss rod adjusting tool i make some coffee and put on cliff richard songs and have a nice hour changing the strings, setting up, intonating playing...intonating...playing and then doing some retuning and daydreaming i am not usually rushed to do this...

[quote name='bubinga5' post='609623' date='Sep 26 2009, 09:23 PM']What would you go for if it was in front of you...im going to buy a super jazz..(i got GAS see) just wondering what you guys/gals would go for..Ok i know this is subjective, but what instrument do you think comes out on top.. Or is it so close that its hard to disipher? Alleva Sadowsky Mike Lull Low End Celinder Nordstrand Dingwall feel free to add[/quote] shuker

custom is good at all levels the luthier combines nostalgia with pragmatism and playability [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/34963887@N02/sets/72157621683978205/show/"]a basic custom bass[/url]

how about including tv show music i love the taggart bass...and the basslines in 'gregory's girl'..film

rotosound strings

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130331649164&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT"]SUB on ebay[/url] anyone bidding on here..?

i see the concept now...i think i have seen similar for making headless use standard one ball end strings and iirc there was a bass with a sort of acrylic rough paint finish had fast acting tuners back in 1991