mrcrow

[quote name='teaser360' post='544322' date='Jul 18 2009, 09:10 PM']Well shes up and running and im happy playing around with it and i just hope the rest of the band like it. Ive just fitted my homemade pickguardian, total cost £3.80 and a bit of time[/quote] very creditable work...i did something similar when i fitted s-d humbucker replacements to my 4003..wired them series in themselves... you did a good job on the bridge pup masking 10+ thought about doing anything with the bridge which for me was a badass II swapout cheers teaser360

[quote name='BarnacleBob' post='544168' date='Jul 18 2009, 05:42 PM']Is there anything recession proof? BB[/quote] bankers bonuses and pension funds

the 64,000 euro question active signals can travel further in cables without loss i dont really understand why but iirc that is one advantage the active sound is supposed to be more 'modern' and you will have eq on the bass to control it since i think it has a brighter top end i used passive but distinguish active passive from true active pup basses my musicman was a passive pup but fed through an active system...with 3 band eq..but no option to use passive this is what i think you have but with the passive option for which to choose i would choose passive for a traditional retro sound ...rock or jazz active for the greater output and clean sound and able to be easily scooped from the bass eq i am interested to see what others say as i have also used emg active basses and cringed at the sound...really sterile and they used passive tone cut!!!

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='509725' date='Jun 9 2009, 11:15 PM']Hi all Some of you might have stumbled across [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=46215&st=0"]this thread[/url] where I agonised over selling my fretless '71 P to buy a Tony Franklin P instead, as I preferred the tone of the ebony board over rosewood. Well, I reached a decision... sell the Franklin and get a replacement ebony neck for the '71. So, over to Howard, BC's very own Bass Doc, who sourced one from Allparts. It arrived yesterday after a couple of weeks. I'm impressed. It's very, very nice indeed. The first thing that struck me was the HUGE slab of ebony on it... it's far thicker than I expected. Very cool. There's a 'lip' at the heel where the board overlaps the pickguard. Howard offered to remove it if I want for authenticity's sake, but I might just leave it there. It's not doing any harm. The neck profile is FAB... standard B width, but very, very chunky front-to-back. Again, Howard could reshape it if I want but as it is it's much better suited to my strangely large hands than the much shallower Franklin. So, Howard created a bone nut for it, swapped the hardware over and gave it a set-up. It feels so focussed, vibrant and lively compared to the rosewood... just as I hoped. It's incredibly even and there's no major dead spots. Result! I have a couple of gigs coming up.. I'll use it then to check everything's OK, then it's going back to Bass Doc to have a lovely authentic 70s amber lacquer applied. Can't wait! Rest assured the factory neck is now officially retired, and will be well looked after...[/quote] that looks like heaven...so cool and ready to vibe great upgrade and 10/10 for the bolt on brigade

fantastic natural player...greatly missed Orlando 'Cachaito' Lopez

[url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fender-Bass-Illustrated-History/dp/0634026402"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fender-Bass-Illust...y/dp/0634026402[/url] this book is for fender basses i had the bass book which covered a lot of basses..something like that would be ideal

cheapest batts i found recenlty were in a poundshop (AA's)...hyundai was the make...they were sealed in 10's and were....you guessed it..£1.00 [url="http://shop.eurobatteries.com/household-alkaline-zinc-batter-duracell-c-25_55_161.html?page=2&sort=2a"]http://shop.eurobatteries.com/household-al...e=2&sort=2a[/url] could be of use keep your eyes open in costco/wilkinsons/b+q/supermarkets for those packs with extras included

[quote name='BOD2' post='543959' date='Jul 18 2009, 01:38 PM']This should help explain it. [url="http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Electronics/Pots/w101-controlpots.html"]http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Electronic...ontrolpots.html[/url][/quote] brilliant piece of logic...still why do manufacturers use 250 in the first place when 500 are available one really wants to either be on or off surely and what really bleeds to earth when you are on full volume... my bass sizzles and hamonicizes on 250 pots then we have the active 25k brigade...what happens there? its a puzzlement what did jaco and jamerson have fitted on their scrappy old mass produced basses

[quote name='Bero' post='544007' date='Jul 18 2009, 02:39 PM']Have geddy lee fender jazz, was shielding the cavities the other day, when back together volumes on both pickups when turned all the way down is not silencing pickups. Have gig tonight and trying to repair. Have covers off and all out of cavities but problem persists, any help would be appreciated[/quote] too late i guess but it could be your earths on the pots arent earthing...that is what takes the signal to zero

i find after listening and watching a bass man doing a great job i want to get my bass out and just noodle areound when i get home listening to some jazz and cuban music makes me want to play as well..viva buena vista..!! make the rut a groove if you can...

[quote name='beerdragon' post='543563' date='Jul 17 2009, 08:30 PM']i thought she was saying.. I want to use loo in a minute! [/quote] yes she was getting a bit pissed off with me eating her chocs

what do those pine dipper guys use to strip doors...that could be the answer i have used nitromors as well so go easy with the water finishing you can make up caustic soda solution to do it but its dangerous and you need oxalic acid to finish off a slow low temperature process with not too much water would be the best bet...ie nitromors..and use soft applicators..sponges etc finishing off is i guess the longest and most arduous process and you may find hidden things under that paint which may need attention natural wood really appeals to me...the look and the feel best of luck cheers

[quote name='Spartacus' post='542435' date='Jul 16 2009, 05:25 PM']500k pots give 3dB greater gain than 250k and sound a bit brighter and are also more controllable for more subtle blending.[/quote] ricks fit 250 and so do fender but i go along with the brighter idea...but do use 250 myself i like a more traditional and mellow tone cheers

[quote name='Metalmoore' post='542426' date='Jul 16 2009, 05:11 PM']Well i have the schaller 4 and it seems great but it has a 19mm spacing with 4.3mm adjustability but i would like to use the 5 string roller version but it only has 16mm with a 3mm adjustability. What i really wanna know is string spacings i could get with the both of them that they have in common so i would have 2 basses with the same string spacing. But if i could try a 16mm spaced bass and if its comforatble then it would probably be fine with a 19mm and a 16mm. But does those 3 mm make that much of a difference?? If anyone can tell me if this 3mm difference will make much of a difference i think i might be able to make my mind up easier.[/quote] the badass is still an option but ugly angles would result you might still get down to 17mm which is close...i had a schaller 4 roller bridge and remember its not got that great amount of ajustment..

[quote name='Spartacus' post='542429' date='Jul 16 2009, 05:20 PM']The standard MM type has two coils side by side and 4 wires. Some types have phantomn coils for silent operation of single coil modes but this one doesnt. There are two ways of wiring it. Parallel (pickups wired electricaly parallel, hots together, grounds together, and magnetically out of phase) or series (pickups wired with ones hot to the others ground and magnetically out of phase for cancellation) If white was hot and red was earth, and the yellow/black were taped then it would be series wired but electically out of phase giving low output. The OPs already tried that and it wasnt right. The hum is most likely because it looks like the earthing between the pot shells and the lugs isnt continuous. Sorry but youre confusing the issue here and stand a chance of confusing the OP as well [/quote] sorry spartacus i was totally confused...

i did think of getting one..headless...just to make everything smaller...i could do that as a project i think bill wyman liked them

[url="http://img263.imageshack.us/i/0451.jpg/"][/url] with my bank manager me..well you see sir there's this great bass on basschat and its only £2000 she..this guy freaks me...all he thinks about is bass

stock up with online purchases post free if poss and good prices i take it you use PP3 always keep a spare for the spare...boy scout motto regarding these corner shops..very nasty work

the meter readings on a pup could be for single coil or double coil stacked stacked could be wired internally series so giving a lower dc resistance this happens on a jazz pup when you use both pups against one one is 7 two is 3.5 but since its two its double the output within reason live with it and enjoy...it aint broke..

you need the neck and nut on the body...initially measure 34" from the nut...thats where the G saddle will be and put a piece of masking tape on each side of the bridge position and mark the 34" position set your bridge with the saddles 3/4 the way out from the full back adjustment line those up with the 34" marks...mark through and drill the fixing holes etc as for the earth from the bridge run a copper strip from the bridge front over the body and down into the bridge pup cavity...solder a wire to it and lead that to the control cavity to be soldered daisy chain to whatever pot you are using for the jack earths the option is to drill a horizontal hole from the control cavity to under the bridge are and pop a hole through to that to take a cable....too hard for me good luck

schaller do a roller bridge for the 4 so you can pull these in alternatively a badass II on the 4 can be grooved similarly on the 5 just use a set width bridge at your 16mm requirements ??

your set up looks ok whites are hot reds are earths and the soldered and taped leads make the pup series...so there is a phantom coil in there to humbuck?? not really familiar with these but they sound like stacked pups when used separately you shouldnt get any hum at all...and since you have used both whites they are in phase hope i am right

why not stick to the original 250k pots? best of luck with a sensibly wired up two pup machine

will the truss rod unscrew and then be replaced by a new one the idea of a tapered allen key sounds good... when i worked as a fitter and we broke a tap in a hole we would drill out the tap...and use an extractor tool this sounds much what a tech could do... best of luck with such an unfortunate situation

a trimmer pot in the cavity would do the job...but it means opening it up etc and off board trimmer...vol pot...would do as well... an old pedal with the guts removed and a suitable vol pot inserted would mean you could stomp it on and off