brensabre79

Bernie does do fretlights as a retrofit for £££s as do Status I believe, but i think the OP wants to do it himself. I'd also be interested in the paint on option if anyone has any info. I struggle to see the dots on my rosewood board under stage lighting. BTW - there's a company called Fretlord who do an optical fibre thing that you don't have to cut a channel for. It is the single most useless thing I have purchased. Basically its a mini LED torch that you blue tac to the back of your bass, with a length of optical fibre stuck to it. You sellotape (yes sellotape ) the optical fibre along the top of the fretboard and turn on the light for minutes of slightly off centre dots glowing fun before you realise it is complete and utter sh*te. Then the battery dies. Actually i never go that far because the strand of optical fibre snapped in half as I opened the packaging. But I did see enough to know that the dots don't line up and it looks pants.

[quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1337090542' post='1655225'] So maybe some will buy because the 'distressing' (how polite!) has been done well! Regarding the edges of the neck, has anyone worn through the lacquer and then started to actually round off the wood on any of their basses? I can't imagine how much playing would cause that. It would occur only in some places on the neck and by then the jack would be rattling loose, the controls on their 4th replacement and 5th refret. [/quote] I've gone through the Nitro finish on my Jazz so the binding looks pristine white whereas the blocks can hardly be seen under the cracking tobacco stained finish, but i think thats more of a chemical reaction with my sweat because its down to the wood on the back too.

It's funny really that these products are so popular, I use them myself, but the most effective system I have ever used is the little rubber grommit from a Grolsch bottle! A fraction of the price of the Schaller ones, they don't come loose and you get two free bottles of beer per set! They do need replacing every so often though, which means more beer.

Depends whether its the thread on the nut or the rod itself. If its just the nut you can replace for under a tenner with hardly any skills. If its the rod itself you'll have to weigh this one up. I believe Stewmac make a truss rod repair kit, but its not cheap. Basically you re-thread the rod and put an according nut on there. The other option, if its the rod, is popping the fingerboard/skunk stripe, removing the old unit and replacing - which does require special skills...

Yep, any of the combinations mentioned above are possible. Mine, 4 bolt neck, bullet trussrod, large serif text. The body is a '73 and the thumbrest is on the E side.. Fender were just using up bits for a while during the transition. It is also worth mentioning that a considerable number of instruments from this period were not very good! So if you find one in immaculate condition, there's probably a reason why it has not been played much (dives for cover)

Yep about 2mm for me all round, most will go a bit lower. When Bernie Goodfellow refretted my 70s neck he set the bass up with an incredibly low action, no buzzing etc. But I found because I'm a heavier player I just couldn't play like that, so I had to ask him to increase it. He tweaked at it a few times until I was happy, but as he said, at least it's there if you need it...

Despite their usual reputation, the Behringer iNuke range are pretty good! You can Bi-amp or bridge them too

A sad loss, thanks for the memories, and the basslines though Don

Yes I'm sure the Rickenwaffe will approve

Yep, I have this trouble at the back on my 70s Jazz. Tried matches, lasted one gig. I have the Fender straplocks, the screws are beefier but doesn't stop this problem unfortunately, just takes a bit longer. Cheers for the cocktail stick tip, will try this next!

Oh please, give it a rest already

Well heres the Fender link: [url="http://www.fender.com/support/articles/bass-guitar-service-diagrams"]http://www.fender.com/support/articles/bass-guitar-service-diagrams[/url] But i can't see the Mustang in there unfortunately... Here's the Mustang Manual (which is useless but interesting): [url="http://support.fender.com/manuals/instruments/Mustang_Bass_(1966)_manual.pdf"]Mustang® Bass Owner's Manual (1966)[/url] I suspect the part you got, if it was for a Mustang Bass, would fit a more modern Mustang Bass reissue (Japan). I could never get the intonation on my Mustang right either though. They will be an imperial thread, you could try taking the ones you have to a hardware store and getting them to match but with longer bolts... you could try contacting GuitarPartsResource.com, they have a lot of Fender bits but I could only see the bridge bass plate on the site. Might be worth dropping them a line though. Good luck!

It gets a good review [url="http://www.ovnilab.com/reviews/empress.shtml"]here[/url] too... mmm tempted

A sidechain on a pedal compressor is unusual, that could be very useful in recreating the masking effect you hear on records. you could put a bass drum mic into the side chain and 'duck' the bass signal out of the way of the kick to get that fat compressed record sound... Sounds interesting!

The only difference between the Squier and Fender stuff is the quality of the bits and the QC. As its a bitsa we can ignore the QC, its probably better than any of them because you're not checking like 50 a day! The bits are all Fender, so only the body is Squier is that right? I'd stick it in the local Music shop and ask them to sell it for you. If they spot that its a Squier body on a genuine Fender neck I will be amazed! plus, then the only time someone will buy it is if they have tried it and they are happy to part with the money. This is an entirely different scenario to getting a noname Chinese made bass and sticking a Fender decal on it!! At worst this is a genuine Fender with a replacement body (licensed by Fender) if I understand correctly...

You could try looking up the bass on the Fender site, there should be a schematic and or parts list on there. Then google the part no. and compare prices. I have a late 60s Mustang Bass, its a work in progress and in the last 10 years I have come across a sum total of 0 genuine replacement parts for it! Do the original saddle screws fit?

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1336565210' post='1647528'] I like your computer's no-nonsense attitude. [/quote] Yes that spell checker seems awfully sesquipedalian!

Yep I can confirm the HA3500 has a valve in the pre. I have one for sale at the moment, complete with a lovely warm Mullard 12ax7 in the preamp AND a tuner! Apologies for the blatant plug That said, Behringer stuff isn't that bad, much of it is copied/derived technology from well known brands. I've had good and bad though and reliability is usually the issue, some of it just doesn't last. It's also so cheap and made in such a way that repair isn't usually practical when you can replace for the same money. The thing is its all made in different factories so it really depends what you get. The rack stuff is generally pretty OK, the mixers are another story - hence there are hundreds of them, nearly new on eBay at knockdown prices...

[quote name='BassBod' timestamp='1336551785' post='1647226'] The other thing I would add is its hard to appreciate just how good the Midget sounds when you are standing in front of it and its blasting your knees. I try and keep it a few feet away when I can, and usually I enjoy the sound a lot more. [/quote] Or just put it on a chair / beer crate / amp stand to raise it up a bit..

To the OP, I don't know what the issue is with Behringer stuff. Its cheap and a good entry level. Most of it is derived from higher quality brand designs, and unashamedly so! They don't have their own manufacturing, research & development etc. they take established technology, change it a little bit and get them made in huge numbers in the far east. Just like Squier do for Fender really. There's nothing wrong with Behringer stuff in terms of performance, bang for buck its really good value gear. The thing with Behringer stuff is that it's not always so reliable, I've got stuff that has been going strong for 10 years, but I've also got stuff that has packed up after 18 months of light use. The difference with Behringer stuff is its probably not cost-effective to repair, so you just replace it. Sooner or later you get fed up of replacing things, or you get more discerning about your sound. To put it in context, none of my bass stuff is Behringer anymore, but our entire PA is (except the speakers). I'm not a singer though

I think you should be fine with a Midget as long as you aren't hitting the limiter on your Shuttle! It'll take up to 600w RMS (The shuttle 6 doesn't get to 600W, more like 550 at full chat with all the lights on). I have a Super 12 and a Shuttle 6 and the cab is like (yawn, is that all you've got?) I guess it depends how much LF you have in your sound though, if you're playing with a deep dubby tone you might be better with what you have. Drop Alex a line, he knows the Shuttle pretty well.