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brensabre79

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Everything posted by brensabre79

  1. [quote name='JakeBrownBass' timestamp='1335825924' post='1636765'] I've browsed through the thread but in reply to the original question, the people that are holding the auditions in this instance choose the songs. The auditioning listens and does what they're told. [/quote] Quite right.
  2. [quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1335825078' post='1636755'] I auditioned for an originals band. I walked in with my bass and bag of bits, put them down and said, 'I'll just go and get my combo from the car'. They said 'Why don't you just go through the PA?' I didn't accept the PA offer and quickly got my combo. While there were other reasons I didn't get the gig, I felt sure that wanting to use my own gear rather than their PA was held against me. [/quote] Maybe but did you really want to be in a band with people who think that sort of thing is OK? worse still, hold it against you for not wanting to blow their PA?
  3. [quote name='SidVicious1978' timestamp='1335835077' post='1636819'] its not my bass lol im in my Warwick addition at the moment [/quote] Glad to hear it!
  4. [quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1335874819' post='1637293'] I always fancied a 928 over a 911. [/quote] You wouldn't say that if you'd owned one, or both!
  5. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1326647128' post='1499891'] You get that if you have the wires the wrong way round, there was a change in the schematic and a correction sheet added seperately to the preamp, where the connections were swapped round, it still works but you get buzzy poles because they aren't earthed like they should be. Had it when I wired Shockwave's bass, [/quote] Nice one Oli, I didn't know that, mine buzzes like a deranged bee too!
  6. I think I'd have to get a left handed version and move the controls around. oh wait...
  7. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1335799137' post='1636192'] Surely the only reason why it's OK to stack speakers vertically and not horizontally is because you are less likely to change your listening position in the vertical axis rather than the horizontal one? [/quote] I think it has to do with phase cancellation and the fact that we tend to hear side to side rather than up and down. It's perfectly fine to stack your speakers horizontally if you listen to them in that position There's a bette and more helpful explanation of this on the [url="http://barefacedbass.co.uk"]Barefaced[/url] website...
  8. [quote name='topcat3355' timestamp='1335744902' post='1635459'] Well, I'm not looking to spend too much because I'm a student so I might have to think about building a cab. Eminence sell a 10's and you can get a pair for £96 in the link below which would match up to my head nicely. Is it a good idea to to get them if I know a person who has built several of bass cabs? [url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/eminence-legend-bp102-4ohm-10-200watt-bass-guitar-speaker-p-867.html"]http://www.lean-busi...aker-p-867.html[/url] [/quote] These are excellent speakers in the right Cab. Serious amount of bottom end in these drivers and they can take 400w each! I have 4 of them in my SWR and there's really no need for a 15" And I'm not just saying that because I'm selling my SWR. If you're planning on building a 2x10 or 4x10 then take a look at the dimensions of the SWR Goliath, Eminence told me these were a good match for their BP102s.
  9. The body [i]might[/i] be a Mexican 70s RI looking at the pickup spacing. But the bridge is not Fender (could have been added) and the screw holes for the bridge cover are in the wrong place (the MIM 70s RI didn't have these holes anyway - again could have been added). The neck is definitely not a Fender - the only Fender necks with truss rod adjustment at the headstock have bullet truss rods AFAIK... So, even giving the benefit of the doubt, this is clearly not a Fender. The body might be but it has been extensively modified to not look like a Fender if it is! Sidvicious1978 is this your bass? I think you've been had fella
  10. Go on, you know you want to
  11. [quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1335794195' post='1636088'] I don't see the point of this. Why tell someone there's an amp when there isn't? A pretty stupid "test" if you ask me. [/quote] I thought he was a w**ker too, and I wasn't trying to hijack the thread with an old story, but the point is I was prepared so I got the work. I suspect many didn't return to be honest. I would never trust someone else's gear so I brought my own. So the point I was making is if you turn up to an audition fully prepared to do more than has been asked, you're setting yourself apart from people who can't be bothered, that's all. If you know seven songs in addition to the six on the list you've got nearly half the set nailed already.
  12. I would learn all of the songs on the list, not just 4 or 2 of them to be honest. It all adds to the repertoire, plus you'll show them that you're more keen than anyone else... If they turn out to be a bunch of a-holes you can always disappoint them when they offer you the gig, but that way its your choice not theirs in the end... Its often easy to misunderstand the tone of an email, or even a forum post! So give them the benefit of the doubt, learn the songs and good luck with the audition! Also, its a big thing to show a bit of initiative. I once had a gig, depping for someone. I had been told there was a bass amp at the venue. When i walked in the place with just my bass and leads the first thing the bandleader said to me was "where is your amp?" to which i replied, "I was told there was one here, but it's in the car if you need me to get it" - he said "nah its ok, you're good" apparently other deps had been through the same 'test' in the past and told to go home and get their amp. They were never booked again. I was. edited for poor spelling!
  13. That makes a lot of sense. If you go back to tapered strings you will need to increase the bridge height to compensate. This may well solve all of your worries as the break angle will be greater. You might not need to shim the neck at all, or carve out the saddles, so a set of tapered strings may be all you need!
  14. Thanks everyone. this gig has been cancelled unfortunately. But I have passed all numbers (in order of contact) to our drummer. Much appreciated!
  15. Yep thats right! title edited, apologies for that
  16. Up for sale is my Hartke HA3500 amp. It comes in a Hartke case and has been fitted with a rack tuner which is included with the sale. Its 350 watts into 4 ohms. It has valve and solid state preamps. A NOS Mullard 12ax7 is the valve preamp - its warm and slightly fuzzy if you drive it There's loads of info about these amps online, they are a workhorse amp and this one has always been very solid and reliable. I'm looking for £200 please including the rack tuner/light. Pickup only, you're welcome to come and try it out. I'm based in Mid Sussex - PM me for details. Cheers Bren
  17. Up for sale, my trusty SWR Goliath. I bought this secondhand over 10 years ago and it has served me well! After many years of good service, this genuinely roadworn 4x10" looks to have had a hard life. The original PAS drivers were replaced 12 months ago with [url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/eminence-legend-bp102-4ohm-10-200watt-bass-guitar-speaker-p-1071.html"]Eminence Legend BP102's[/url] These are 4 ohm drivers. Currently the Cab is wired into 2x8 ohm pairs with two seperate inputs, but this can simply be changed to a 4ohm cab if required. I will also include the original drivers, they are working but the cones are creased (these are 8 ohm, not 4). Each Eminence Legend can take 400W music program so this is a 1600W cab, but I have only used it with a 350W amp. These 4 drivers without the cabinet come to £200. They were chosen after consultation with Eminence as to the best replacement for this particualr cabinet. The sound is deep and loud. Cosmetically, the cabinet is tired, and could probably do with recovering, although this does not affect the performance, it's just been on tour for a long long time. Structurally the cabinet is sound, but some of the carpet covering has ripped off on the bottom. The crossover has been bypassed, again this can be wired back in easily enough it's all in there. The plate with the jack sockets on has been modified (for 2 8 ohm pairs) and is in a bit of a state cosmetically - again, the performance is not affected. I'm also selling a Hartke HA3500 amp. Due to the size of the cab you must come and pick it up, or arrange collection yourself please. You're welcome to come and try it out. I'm based in Mid Sussex. PM me for details etc. Cheers Bren
  18. I've got MIA, MIM, MIJ Fender and a CII Squier (my second). The main difference is the quality of the parts, but the difference is nowhere near the same as the difference in price. In terms of the playability and feel there's not much (if anything) between them, but whilst the hardware on the Squier is servicable it does not feel as solid as the Fender. I haven't tried one of the new korean Fenders, but I suspect the difference will purely be in the quality of the components. The Fender ones being slightly better, with maybe a bit more human QC. I said a while ago before MIK Fenders came out that it wouldn't be long before Fender realised the Squiers being produced these days were top notch and started sticking Fender decals on instead of Squier and charging a couple of hundred more. And here we are...
  19. I think a luthier would be the safest bet for you Jorn. Adjusting the bridge (probably filing out the saddles a bit wider to suit your string gauge) and the neck shim are both best done by someone who knows what they are doing. The only risk doing the neck shim yourself is that you shim too much which is completely reversible. At worst you'll go back to how it is now by simply removing the shim. The bridge job is not reversible. Plus, after either of these the bass will need a proper set up again. Hence a luthier would be a good choice if you want it done right and reasonably quickly. Not sure where you're based but there's a thread in this section (stickied at the top) of recommended luthiers in the UK.
  20. Hmm not sure if your action might be a bit low for your playing style. It looks like your saddles need to be higher to sort the bridge problem out, I'm not familiar with that particular bridge design but it looks like the strings may be too thick for the grooves so they are sitting on top rather than IN them. The G looks ok - like its inside the groove, but as you get toward the B they look to be not quite fitting inside. Of course if they were inside then you'd have to increase the saddle height to compensate. If you're happy with the string height from the fretboard and the trussrod is adjusted ok then it could be that you need to shim the neck angle slightly to get a higher bridge saddle with the same action height (is it a bolt on neck?). That way the break angle of the bridge will give you a better purchase, so the saddle should sit tight and the strings won't pop out of position...
  21. Lovely job. I like the white with black scratchplate YepMop If you use car paint you can finish it off with some clear nitro to give it a hard outer shell - it'll age nicely too if you do that Just make sure you let the paint dry properly (I'd leave it a week or so) befoer you start he Nitro, and that will need at least 2 weeks before you fine sand it smooth and buff it
  22. Its a bit more money, but one of these is a good buy - I've been running two of the 3000 model in our PA for about a year. Its a class D amp too so really light. http://www.thomann.de/ie/behringer_inuke_nu1000_endstufe.htm
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