brensabre79

If you want to use bridge mode you'll have to use the terminal posts (I thought these were illegal on power amps now!) so you need a speaker lead with a jack plug at one end and two bare ends at the other. honestly, I wouldn't risk it personally, but if you do make sure nobody puts their drink down near the back of that thing!

I've used baking soda and superglue for years to fill in holes, nuts etc. it works a treat if you're fast. Another trick, if you've been sanding is to collect the dust, sift it and use that instead of/with the baking powder for a decent wood colour match. Her indoors was quite concerned when she found my little jars of dust though, be warned

There's always going to be differences in a band. JT, I know your pain and in the end we decided to replace the one person who wasn't on the same page in terms of getting the band to the best it can be. We've spent the last year getting the line up right and we have a good unit that everyone is happy with. Latest dilemma is that some want to do more gigs than others, this is due to the fact that some have day jobs while others don't. Like I said, there's always going to be something. The question you have to ask yourself is whether you can live with it or not? People will put the effort in sometimes when pushed, for a little while but I always remember what my dad said to me about working with others... "You can only trust people to be themselves and you shouldn't expect any more or any less from them."

Yeah I'm not sure Poly ages at all! get some nitro and leave it in the sun for 10 years. or get the stuff above, spray it on and let it dry for 2 weeks (trust me on this!)

The ShuttleMAX and the Shuttle are quite different beasts. Just thought I'd clarify as I think, like me, many have compared the Shuttle with the Streamliner, but not the ShuttleMAX and the streamliner. Having said that, I believe the Streamliner is more what you're after because the EQ section is Valves as well as the preamp. Its a warmer rounder sound. I run my Shuttle 6 pretty much flat most of the time so not sure how much benefit I would get from the valve EQ but I do put two valve pedals in front of it because alone the shuttle can be a bit sterile for me.

Thanks everyone who has replied / PM'd me. I'm going to pass your details on to our drummer who sorts the dates out etc. Cheers Bren

There you go, rosewood you see

[quote name='garethfriend' timestamp='1335283440' post='1628617'] anyone find they can see the strings and dots better against a maple board in low light conditions? if only they genetically engineered glow in the dark tonewoods... [/quote] Yes yes yes! having played maple necks since forever, my first gig on a RW scared the s**t out of me because not only could I not hear myself properly (I could just feel the boom off the house PA) I couldn't see the side dots. Added to that it was a Thunderbird and I'm used to Fenders so the positioning was way off for me! I leant over the front in one song that was high up the fretboard to see that i was playing a semitone out!! These days I have a white bound maple neck, belt and braces!! Although with my new rig I never have trouble hearing myself any more

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1335278368' post='1628489'] Rosewood is harder than maple. [/quote] Yeah what he said, maybe its the laquer that is responsible for the tone more than the wood? Perhaps thats why Rickenbackers 'clank' even though they are rosewood - because they are laquered rosewood...

I have no science to back this up, but having made bitsa basses for a while now I've had the opportunity to try this body with that neck etc. I do believe rosewood has a warmer sound, I get a lot more 'clank' from a maple neck. And as others have observed, rosewood seems to sit in the mix, where maple seems to rise above it. I was doing some recording recently, with a maple neck which worked on all but the last song, a mellower affair. It just wasn't working on that song and take after take it just didn't sit right. I swapped to the RW one and bingo! one take and it was done. Maybe its about the way you play the different woods too. I feel that maple is hard and press hard against it, whereas the rosewood feels softer, like it might crush if i press too hard (I know it wont it just feels like it) so I play in a mellower way on RW. I did want to build a maple fretless, not many of those around! One HUGE disadvantage of maple necks though is when they need a refret. They have to be re-laquered after the new frets are smoothed down. If its a 30 year old bass (the sort that might need a refret) matching the colour of the nitro can be tricky and best left to an expensive expert!

So the band are getting quite a few bookings these days and I can't do all of them. The first to come up is on 9th June, its £100 each person with my covers band. We operate all over Sussex but mainly based near Uckfield. there will probably be other gigs along these lines as well later in the year so it would be great to get a reliable dep sorted... So a solid player, with own gear and transport a must as we travel to gigs separately. none of the bass parts are too taxing and we pretty much do them all as the record so an easy learn. We play mostly post-punk classics (Pretenders, Stranglers etc.), a bit of Ska (Specials, Madness), and some of the usual crowd pleasers (Sex on Fire, Killers, Kaiser chiefs etc.) let me know if you're interested and I'll send a set list and CD over for you! It would be great if you could do one or two rehearsals before the night just to get settled in.

Heads are different. They don't generally use the Speakon/Jack hybrid sockets on cabs mainly because whilst a speakon socket is air-tight, a jack is not so air can get in and out of the hole when its not being used which can cause the cab to fart out the back! the other reason is its a very expensive socket. If a jack plug won't easily go into the centre of the speakon socket don't force it! you'll need a Speakon-Jack speaker cable.

Yeah I think it is a bit of a compromise, I'm finding the .80 A string a little light to be honest now its played in and gotten a bit rubber bandy (technical term), its also the lowest tension of the 4 (only by a smidge) the ideal match would be an 82 / 83 but they don't make them so I think I'll go for an 85 when I try the Newtones out...

The rating of the speaker has nothing to do with how the power is distributed. At FULL power, assuming you've wired up the speakers in parallel you'll probably get 250w to each. If you're careful with levels you should be OK in terms of not breaking stuff, but the 200w cab will be reaching its limit where the 400w cab may not even sound as loud as the 200w one because its not so sensitive. In my view its best not to mix and match with random cabs. You might actually be better off just using one of the cabs in terms of sound. If you're doing it because you need more volume the 200w cab will probably suffer because you're driving the levels up.

yep its a bullet, 75 neck.

Is the truss rod the right way around for a 70s bass? Mine is at the headstock end, although its a little later than 72. Not sure when they changed this...

Yeah I think I saw Jimi Hendrix using that stuff

At the end of the day people are trying to summarize a rather complex scientific subject with very simplified examples, we could go very deep into this and spend years looking at the theory but I think its beyond the scope of the question...

Don't use WD40, its a bad switch cleaner because whilst it will loosen dirt and lubricate, it leaves a conductive and sticky coating behind, its like spray grease! A proper switch cleaner, with isopropyl alcohol in it will probably get rid of the fizz altogether and won't leave a sticky residue that clings to dirt and dust.

That bridge looks far too sensible Perhaps some sort of ridiculous cover for that bridge pickup would help? One that covers the strings right where you want to play them and causes injury when you try...

What he said. switch cleaner works wonders but only if you can get it to the right place. Plus it will just move the dirt around so you'll probably have to get around to replacing the pot at some point. It may also be the spindle. I've just replaced a crackling/cutting out pot on a 1979 fender, the spindle was loose from years of wear, no amount of switch cleaner would repair that.

To clarify the answers you've had. It is one sound made from a combination of sounds. Just like if you mix red paint and green paint in one tin you get a tin of brown paint.

I play in a covers band that likes to do things differently, it started out with a 'people will book us for who we are and what we play' attitude. And people do book us, but for functions / weddings, even booking us on this basis there is usually a request list. Guess what, they are all exactly the same songs all the function bands do, exactly the stuff we tried to avoid! So the choice is simple: 1. play what you like, but don't expect so many functions/weddings if you refuse to play what they want. 2. play the same old stuff everyone else plays but wear red ties. Personally I don't care, we do lots of pub gigs where we get to play what we want, and if someone is prepared to hand over the £££s for a function, then i will gladly play Come 'on Eileen for 3 hours. Well maybe not for 3 hours, 3 minutes is about my limit with that tune before someone has to die.

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1334839999' post='1622148'] Alternatively the frequencies will be very different from each. Is it maybe compromised a little by your amp EQ (perhaps cutting some highs?) Also a compressor MAY help a bit. [/quote] +1 The BPU is all in the mids, if you have a smiley face EQ curve, you're cutting the BPU out. A compressor WILL help a lot IMO.

This is quite normal for a Jazz, especially if you have 70s spaced pickups (Bridge pickup is closer to bridge) - I think the 70s Tokai ones were 70s spacing. I overcame this problem by adjusting the height of the pickups initially as everyone does, but ended up with the NPU level with the scratchplate and the BPU almost in the way of the strings! So I got Andy at Wizard to make me a hotter (overwound) bridge pickup compared to the neck. The BPU is still higher than the NPU but not so extreme, I'd say about a 1/4" difference in distance from strings. I still blend in a bit of NPU with the bridge though as there's not much in the lower frequencies from the BPU alone. Don't be afraid of lowering the NPU a bit to get a better balance, you can always turn the amp up! It's all about reaching equilibrium.