Bigwan

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1457701139' post='3001087'] Since the ECC83 is a dual triode, if they used a cathodyne phase inverter (which uses one triode) in the CTM15 the other triode could be part of the preamp. Though to have tone controls and enough gain to overdrive the preamp would require more stages than that. If the master volume is after that one triode in the preamp, they may have arranged the gain staging so that any preamp overdrive is coming from the valve, but it would still be more honest to describe it as a hybrid preamp. [/quote] All possible but, as you say, it's CERTAINLY NOT an all valve amp.

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1457697643' post='3001034'] Goodness, there was me thinking if you had a valve input and valve output power, you had a valve amp! [/quote] Looking at the PCB layout (there are pics online) I VERY much doubt it has a valve input. There are 3 valves on the CTM15. 2 for the power amp (2 EL84, typical for 15 watt amps) and one 12AX7, but it's placement would suggest it's doing phase inverter duty. There's lots of "sand" between the input and the valves... LB30: [attachment=214412:lb30guts.jpg] CTM15: [attachment=214411:ctm15guts.jpg]

[quote name='Bobthedog' timestamp='1457693321' post='3000975'] I thought the LB30 / CTM30 were all valve? [/quote] They are.

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1457628335' post='3000397'] [URL=http://s741.photobucket.com/user/Bassmankev/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscyie1l0q.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx59/Bassmankev/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscyie1l0q.jpeg[/IMG][/URL] Gigrig on top as new homemade board isn't large enough underneath to fit 🙄 [/quote] What's the one knobber Kev?

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1457613581' post='3000099'] Also, my hobby room is in a state where it can't currently be used as I am fixing it up. The music and computer sections are done, and the painting and modelling section is almost done. But the electronics section is currently nonexistent since I changed my mind on how to build it. I was going to use the bench I was using before and build shelving, parts bins, drawers and pegboard panels around it, but I am now going to be building the whole thing as one unit from scratch. It's all very frustrating (I can only work on it on four days out of ten, and only that much if I am lucky) and so I find myself constantly researching every minute detail and asking questions at every available opportunity, just so I feel like I am doing [i]something[/i] towards it. [/quote] I feel your pain. My hobby room (which I may be loosing to the kids shortly) is in such a state that I can hardly get into it - too many guitars/basses in various states of repair, boxes of kids toys, bags of tools, a few valve amp chassis. I'm building pedals by stuffing the components at home of an evening at the kitchen table, bringing it into work to solder at lunchtime, home to test that evening, into work next day to wire up the footswitch and power connector, home to test again that evening. This afternoon's fun will be hooking up my Ginger build to a signal generator and Oscilloscope to set the FET trimmers. On testing last night I found with the gain low it sounded FANTASTIC. As soon as gain was over a quarter it farted on every note. Lashed it across the kitchen table in disgust... Then lying in my pit last night I remembered you have to tune the bloody thing!!! Could do it by ear but since I have the means...

Singlecuts Symmetrical (or close to symmetrical) body shapes (some Alembics, Statii, etc) Gold hardware Antigua burst Useless inlays (initials, crosses, skulls, etc) Pencil necks Black block inlays [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Everything Rickenbacker[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Edited to add Buckeye Burl....[/font][/color]

[quote name='Bobthedog' timestamp='1457614299' post='3000104'] I am sure I have seen a recent thread on here or TB where the OP complained that the CTM had a much brighter sound than the LB. If they have the same innards, this surely would not make sense? I have found an LB30 on Facebook that is a great price, however, it was a Jan 16 sale so ,at have gone. Until I get back to the UK, I am not going to chase anything, however. I cannot see the one on BC referred to earlier. [/quote] I can only speak from personal experience, but they sound identical to me (I'll caveat that by saying it's been a few years since I owned the LB30). I read on here somewhere I think that they were the same amp reinvented - apparently the whole "B**tard" thing didn't go down that well in some circles... They both sound excellent so I wouldn't take one person's negative comment as gospel. Try one for yourself!

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1457600861' post='2999942'] Yep, another vote here. I believe the CTM30 has now replaced the LB30 in their production line - which is a bit of a shame as the LB30 is definitely the best-looking amp I've ever owned! But if the CTM30 sounds even half as good, you'll be laughing. (LB30 review if anyone's interested: https://thecrowfrombelow.wordpress.com/2015/08/03/gear-review-6-ashdown-little-bastard-30/ ) [/quote] They're identical under the hood. I prefer the look and form factor of the LB30 I had (it's slightly narrower), but the CTM30 I have now came up at a killer price so I jumped on it.

I'll add support for the LB30/CTM30. Fantastic little amps!

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1457530023' post='2999381'] Initially I planned for five controls for each channel plus shared input jack, output level and output jack. The channels would be switched via A/B footswitch and Bypassed with a second footswitch. I was hoping to repurpose pretty much all the existing knobs and switches - having said that, I still need to check whether the footswitches are the right spec for a bypass. I also don't mind changing the controls if it results in a better layout but I can see that the existing pots are soldered directly into the PCB which is a whole load of unwelcome extra faff I'm not really equipped to deal with. I did think about a clustered layout where the 3 band eq has smaller diameter knobs compared to the drive and voice controls but didn't take it too much further because I needed to check pot dimensions and fixings. [/quote] Having just read that again I think I initially misunderstood what you were looking for. I'd assumed you wanted to run both JOYOs in parallel and blend between them. Given that, why would you want to go to the expense of putting these in a new enclosure? You could achieve what you're wanting to do with an A/B looper pedal: http://buildyourownclone.com/products/tblooper

Shots of my Ginger build as requested Dan

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1457519816' post='2999223'] I've been mulling over combining two Joyo American Sound pedals into a single 'twin channel' pedal that can A/B dirty and clean settings. The pedal is based on the Tech 21 Blonde but with a mod for more low frequencies. How complicated would finding the enclosure be? It'll need to accommodate 5 controls for each channel (3 eq, 1 voice and 1 drive) and a 6th for overall level of both channels. I know there are enclosures out there which are large, but can anyone advise what the smallest footprint could be for this layout based on other designs? Front and inside shown below: [attachment=214232:DSC_0059-01.jpeg] [attachment=214231:DSC_0058.JPG] Many thanks! [/quote] Are you looking to have a single footswitch, a blend control and the 5 controls for each channel? Would you be happy with the controls layed out as they currently are with regards to spacing, etc? 2 of the JOYO pedals side-by-side too big? Obvious and simplest choice would be the Hammond 1590DD which is 7.38" x 4.7" x 1.3". It's roughly equivalent to 2 Hammond 1590BB enclosures side-by-side. 1590BB is close to the JOYO enclosure at 4.67" x 3.68" x 1.18". You might get away with smaller but you're changing the orientation of your PCB which would lead to further complications. Nice little project actually! Worth considering given the price of the JOYO pedals... Add a Splitter/Blender circuit and you're away!

[quote name='bobbass4k' timestamp='1457517161' post='2999191'] That was going to be my next port of call actually, I saw some on amazon, could be a relatively easy, good looking solution, but I'm not sure how well they'll work on powder coats? [/quote] Personally I can't imagine it would, but it would be brilliant if it did! Drop filling some white paint into stamped letters on a precoloured enclosure would be all I'd ever need!

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1457513096' post='2999141'] Ha ha!!! See how I anguish with the justification to make another gear related purchase? Beetlejuice! Beetlejuice! I just need to say it one more time! [/quote] Ha! Surely "Candyman! Candyman!..." is a more suitable mantra!

Gumtree (under musicians in the community section) or Join My Band are the only resources I've really used with any success Javier. MetalIreland also useful if that's your thing. Fastfude has been a waste of time for years... I know what you mean about the age thing. Just turned 39 and had the same issue. There are still folk out there though! I put up an ad before Christmas and just last week got contact from a band (via Join My Band).

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1457472773' post='2998967'] Now, it wouldn't hurt to have another, right? [/quote] You may have mentioned it before...

[quote name='bobbass4k' timestamp='1457476133' post='2999008'] Here's my current DIY crop, ranging aesthetically from "passable minimalism" to "accidentally painted by an alarmingly intoxicated donkey" - Gut shots are available upon request, except for those that are stuffed into their enclosures like a sausage casing full of weasels. [/quote] What are they all Bob?

BJFE Blueberry clone boxed up and working a treat! Made 2 mods to the final circuit to brighten it up a tad and it sounds pretty damn good to me! Didn't sound bad before mind you. On with the Ginger now. Then it's a 741 Blower Box clone on vero, the vero hpf/lpf I'd mentioned to dood, a Fairfield Barbershop on vero and an LPB1/Kreuzer onboard pre combo (for a bit of Broke Dick Peanut Gallery action!). Also have an SFT build I threw in my "needs attention" box a couple of years ago which I'm going to revisit. Any of you tried using letter punches for your enclosures like Fairfield? Anyone tried it on the pre-finished hammond enclosures? Don't know if I can be faffed with painting metal boxes for my own use.

[quote name='danbowskill' timestamp='1457455490' post='2998773'] Can you post a gut shot of your Ginger please Bigwan [/quote] A pic of the unwired board Dan (current state - didn't get anywhere near the ginger today), or the finished pedal?

[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1457432458' post='2998392'] the aim is to release it after tweeks at combustion level pricing! [/quote] Yup... I'll have to have one then!

Have to say I really like the D-bird pics I've seen, bearing in mind it's a prototype as I understand it. Sure there are probably things I'd change if I were ordering. They're a custom bass after all - you can order what you like! Some nice touches though, the scalloped section on the back for the strap button for example. I've no problem with the headstock at all. Only looking at the pics on my phone on instagram so can't get a clear view of the PG to comment. If this was to come as a 5 string with their extended scale I might be in trouble... Edit: Yes I see what you mean about the pickguard now I've seen the facebook pics. Other than that and having one pickup too many I think it's great! And the scale is the longer Dingwall variety so... will watch with interest!

Having followed my own advice I've tested my BJFE Blueberry (hacked a pedalparts Juicy Blue kit to match the BJFE schematic) before boxing and it sounds lush - a little dark so I'll do a few mods suggested to me by Josh Broughton (Azure Skies on TB) to brighten it up a tad before I box it up. Would sound bloody marvelous as is on a P-Bass with flats though. My ROG Ginger kit has arrived from Musikding (EVENTUALLY!!! So much for German efficiency!) and the board is mostly stuffed. Just the LEDs and FETs to fit and I can get it wired up for test. Hopefully today.

[quote name='stuckinthepod' timestamp='1457102351' post='2995380'] Ancient thread I give thee life once again..........Hartke Bass Attack Preamp has a suggested setting called Schism - sounds very close [/quote] I honestly think if the Attack wasn't so huge (and dare I say was released by a company better known for effects) it would outsell a lot of other pre pedals. I really liked mine when I had it. Sold to try other things. Might get another if I ever go back to a pedaltrain Jr, but I'm all about fitting things on my PT mini (or using my b3) at the minute.

Behringer X Air series look to be a good deal for what you're after - you don't state what your budget is, but the X18 and XR18 both have 6 aux sends, XR16 has 4, XR12 has 2. All can be controlled remotely via wifi and iOS, Android, PC, Mac, etc so control over monitor mixes using an app on your phone. If it's just for rehearsal perhaps you could also consider the jamhub? May look a bit mickey mouse, but would work. Even better if you had E-drums/V-drums. These are the solutions I'm looking at myself.

Added a comment to your question on the other thread so read that too, but I'll add more detail here about my mod. Be aware that this is a surface mount circuit, so if you haven't used a soldering iron before I suggest you give all of this a miss or find somebody who can do it for you. It was easy for me as I have ready access to an electronics lab and regularly solder components similar in size to a grain of sugar. I sh*t you not... First I put back the resistor I removed to start with (see original post) and placed a 10k resistor across C19 on the board instead (the 22n cap labelled C5 on the attached schematic). This is the notch mod from the youtube video, but I didn't want it switchable. Secondly I wanted to remove the midrange cut inherent in the design, but leave the low pass filtering (cab sim) around IC2A and IC2D in the schematic. R18, C15, C16 and R21 form an alternative version of a bridged-T notch filter (a bit about it at the bottom of this page: [url="http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/eqs/paramet.htm"]http://www.geofex.co...eqs/paramet.htm[/url]), so that's what I wanted to eliminate. I removed those 2 resistors and 2 caps. To save having to worry about biasing opamp IC2D I then connected the output from IC2A to the input of C14. I like this pedal much more now, but I'm considering buying another to do the youtube midrange mod on and perhaps a few other little tweaks (maybe the blend you're talking about!). Or maybe not - I have about a dozen pedal projects swirling around in my head at the minute! It's actually much more than the midrange you're fixing with that youtube mod. It's taking most of the cab simulated high end roll off out of the equation too. By the way you'll need to change the file extension of the attached schematic to .pdf to open it. An oddity with the forum software apparently!