Bigwan

I also meant volume boost - spike was a bad word to describe it! The mod is just adding a pot or trimmer between the output of the pcb and the footswitch. Not easy to do on the "micro" as the footswitch is on a ribbon cable. Easy on the mini though!

[quote name='Black Coffee' timestamp='1427149693' post='2726583'] Im in the "id like to play before buying" camp as ive never played an ibanez other than a btb 6 string over a period of a couple of weeks. Having said that gas does strange things. Its either the ff or the single cut. But i will give u a shout and u can call for a coffee and a play if i pull the trigger. [/quote] Surely coming from around these parts you were probably in the same boat buying your first Dingwall too?! I certainly was and, as you say, GAS is a strange mistress! Was THIS close (holds thumb and forefinger VERY close together) to flashing the credit card in Bassdirect's direction last night when they posted a sunburst super P4 on Facebook... But I remembered I actually quite like my man parts and wouldn't like having them removed by my wife with something blunt and rusty...

Filters are funny things. It's interesting that everyone who has tried to do what you're doing has different experiences and preferences. I tried the EHX Qtron (big box, mini and micro versions), broomstick bottom feeder, wonderlove, proton, GR and GR2 from 3Leaf, the aforementioned boss unit (detested it), the byoc envelope filter, zoom b3 (more than passable actually), and a few more I can't remember right now! My overall favourite sounding filter was actually an EHX big box Qtron, but couldn't put up with the size or the 24v power supply requirements so I've settled on a 3Leaf GR2 (like original GR too). You've got a great sounding filter in the mini if you can sort out the volume spike.

[quote name='JamesBass' timestamp='1427117796' post='2725907'] Limelight Jazz owners, I need your help!! Does anyone know if the bodies Mark uses are 60s or 70s position pickup routs? [/quote] Having been through every pic here and on Mark's site, I don't recall seeing a single 70s-style jazz body. That doesn't mean he can't do you/source you one though! Shout him is your best bet - he was willing to do a '51 p bass when I asked!

[quote name='Black Coffee' timestamp='1427147343' post='2726536'] This looks like a possible purchase in the near future. I've had three Dingwalls but I've struggled with justifying thousands of quid tied up in one bass, so I let them go. So it's GAK then. [/quote] Keep me posted - interested in your thoughts if you decide to go down the Ibanez route!

Beautiful! Health to enjoy!

The Mini Qtron will be hard to beat - really fat and juicy. I modded 2 for Gareth Hughes of this parish to include a volume control - on one I took out the mode switch and put a pot in its place since it was always being run in low pass anyway. On the other I drilled a little hole and fitted a mini trim pot. One thing to note is that the mini qtron seems to be about the most unreliable pedal ever constructed, so if you go down that route buy a spare. I have one of the aforementioned modded pedals back with me to tinker with (when I get some free time) as it refuses to work half the time. Trying to figure out a way to ruggidise the design a bit. Probably start with off board pots and a rehouse (once I find a suitable enclosure!). There's absolutely no need for these pedals to be that size...

[quote name='jensenmann' timestamp='1426880895' post='2723163'] @Bigwan Why don´t you built the entire G9 sans mic-input/phantom circuit? This is the best bass DI I´ve ever used and I own many, even big name and big $$$ ones. The G9 has outperformed all of them. It´s output has app 1,2k output impedance and can easily drive most EQ circuits - no need to mess with the circuit by installing an interstage EQ. I´ve DIYed the Madamp BP1 a few month ago. The kit was incomplete, with some faults in the documentation, some parts didn´t fit and the mains tranny was defective. Not that great if you´re a beginner in DIY-land (which I am not). After having sorted all that out + some mods and tweaks to the circuit it turned out as a nice bass preamp. But it couldn´t hold a candle to the G9! This convinced me to build another version of the G9 as a basspreamp in PTP. Since it has no EQ I´ll add an AMEK M2500 EQ which I have sitting in the corner and pre/post EQ DI outs. [/quote] The thought of building a single channel G9 had crossed my mind, but I figured the Ampeg preamp would better suit the sound I'm going for. Nothing to stop me trying both, other than a serious lack of free time!

[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1426681208' post='2720640'] Agree. On the power supply side, Barry's smaller unit does not have a centre tap heater - this is usually grounded to kill 50Hz hum. But you can add a low value pot across the heaters and ground the wiper. Adjust pot for minimum hum. [/quote] I'd planned 2 100ohm resistors as a faux ground, but a pot would be a better idea!

I'd thought about that, 500k or 1Meg probably be better values. I'll play around with the location of the tonestack as well as the tonestack values, but wanted this as a starting point to try the ultra switches out - ultra high might be better across the 2nd level control instead. Also want to try a few mid control ideas, shift control in place of the 120k in the tonestack, etc. Doubt I'll go as far as an inductor based mid circuit like the svt, but you never know!

Probably not the best place to be asking this but since there's other DIYers here I'll give it a shot. I've been looking at a few bits and pieces over the last few days and have (VERY) quickly cobbled together 2 partial schematics from an Ampeg B25 and a line driver output from the Gyraf G9 valve preamp. Can anyone see anything fundamentally wrong with this as a starting point for experimenting with? Obviously no PSU design here but I'm looking at bassing it (see what I did there) around Barry's/Ampmaker's toroidal transformer. I'd be looking to add an unbalanced output and a level control for the XLR (probably by putting a pot between the 2 hot outputs). [URL=http://s38.photobucket.com/user/Bigwan2062/media/preamp%20idea.png.html][IMG]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/Bigwan2062/preamp%20idea.png[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='Left Foot' timestamp='1426086601' post='2714204'] Not bass related but still loving the Sculley! V tempted to look at COG overdrive next. [url=http://postimg.org/image/5klvi3l3t/full/][/url] [/quote] Wtf is going on in this picture!?

The Danbury stuff is great quality. Must get a closer look at their website. I have a Burman valve pre/power amp setup gathering cobwebs in the garage at the minute so a b15-style preamp to run off the Burman PowerPak (possible with a few added bells and like bright, deep and shift switching) is probably the best way forward for me at the minute. Been a few years since I built anything of note...

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1426094671' post='2714345'] Given the amount of excellent info on the forum (schematic/layout etc) you could quite easily order comparable parts from UK suppliers for around half that. If I were going to build one (I'm quite tempted actually..) I'd probably select the comparable Hammond transformers, e.g those rated for the output tubes I wanted to use, then order a hammond enclosure and other bits from one or more UK suppliers: http://www.londonpower.com/hammond/matching.htm http://www.bluebellaudio.com/ Ok, Hammond isn't Heyboer, but IME they are easily good enough. [/quote] Actually I spent a few minutes yesterday starting to price parts on tube-town.net for Kevin O'Connor's "improved" Portaflex build from his TUT3 book - quite a bit simpler than the Trinity version with SS rectification, single channel, cathode bias 6L6 power section only. Got interrupted, but it was getting on for €300 for Hammond trannies, valves and chassis before adding any other components or hardware. I'd say all told you'd be nearer €450 (£320ish at today's exchange rate) by the time you'd be done, but with the added faf of machining a bare chassis, having a faceplate made to your own design, etc. I know, personally, I haven't the time or inclination for that end of things any more, so £600 for a full kit of parts and ending up with a superior amp would be worth the extra for me. Having said that, I probably have enough bits and pieces knocking around and enough know-how to make myself something like this instead: http://arkhamsound.com/octling.html

I think the $1600 is for a built chassis. If you click on the "kit info" link it shows $670. Price to ship to the UK is the question...

Not.Helping.My.GAS.

A bit more silly than usual round here today... Suppose it is Friday! I've asked people to hold items before, but I've always agreed a time period, typically 24 hours. 3 1/2 hours is taking the piss more than a little! As pointed out, not everyone can drop everything to respond properly to a basschat PM. On the flipside I've had "I'll be transferring money this afternoon" only to never hear from the individual again. There's a handy block users feature here for just such occasions! I've only used it once, but it's satisfying... My feeling is agree a hold period up front (if you're inclined to hold it at all), don't extend it if you've other interested buyers, keep feedback threads updated with these details of all transactions including negative ones otherwise what's the point! Always check for feedback if there is any (obviously none in this case).

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1425288046' post='2705767'] Lush. [/quote] What he said!

[quote name='Wooks79' timestamp='1425134758' post='2704347'] Looks like a Retro210 to me... [/quote] Right you are!