Bigwan

Their product range changes pretty frequently though, and they do come out with some random nonsense... your request is about 100 times more sensible than some of their products... And size didn't stop Genz Benz or GK...

Can't argue with that. Always liked the look of Leduc basses!

You know I couldn't even tell you off the top of my head! Whatever the standard Pyramid Black Nylon Tapewound Uke bass strings are. I bought them for my U-bass about 18 months ago, at which point it went in the corner in shame as it wouldn't play even close to in tune ANYWHERE one the neck. But I transferred them onto the Harley Benton about a month ago and I'm liking both basses much more now. Always liked the Benton, but have disliked the U-bass since I took the original black strings off it. The Thunderguts at least play more in tune than anything else I've tried on the U-bass. Edit: I will say that restringing the Harley Benton is a nightmare. Probably easier with virgin strings, but with the strings previously on the U-bass... let's just say there was much wailing and gnashing of teeth trying to aim the spiral end through those little holes blind and at the very end of my contorted wrist's reach. I don't have the smallest hands in the world and there's no rear access hatch like there is on the Kala. Interesting times.

@MoonBassAlpha Short out C12 on the pcb, or short the junction between R8 and C12 to ground, whichever is handiest. Haven't done it myself yet, but I've modelled it in LTSpice and C12 is the culprit. When I get around to it I'll be playing with the MOSFET clipping in the circuit too... There are differences in the overall circuit between the CTM15 and the MiniMOFO, but not much until after the tone stack. The minimum gain available is very slightly lower on the CTM15 (different value for R9). Now maybe shorting C12 will highlight a deficiency somewhere else in the circuit, but to get a quarter turn of travel on the gain control without it turning to crap I'm willing to give it a rattle! Some plots to show what simulation says. I've only simulated up to just after the tone stack, and have bass and treble cut, mid boosted to get the flattest response (fender-style tone stack). Should have measured before the tone stack, but you get the idea... Obviously there is some high and low passing going on elsewhere in the circuit, but I'm not planning on playing with that... yet... First, minimum gain, original circuit: Now minimum gain with C12 shorted out: Now back to original circuit but gain about half way up (assuming 100k ohms on 1meg ohm log taper pot): Now half way gain with C12 shorted out:

The did something similar with the Little Bastard 550, so not sure where the complication lies... I wonder was it too complicated, or too pricey... or not enough of a market... or market too saturated with other valve fronted class D amps...

The truss rod needed a half turn, but other than that there have been no issues.

The CTM15 has a bigger problem in that the further you turn up the gain control, the more low end you shave off. It's a hangover from it being a common design between it and the Hayden MiniMoFo 15 guitar amp, which is built on the same PCB... I've been meaning to experiment with a few mods to my CTM15 but haven't got around to it yet. I'll maybe slot the EQ values into the Duncan Tone Stack calculator tomorrow and see what it spits out.

Just the originals (Thunderguts I think) and the Pyramid tapes. I put the Thunderguts on the Kala and they're the best I've tried on it from 4 different sets. The pyramid tapes put the Harley Benton in a different league though.

Kala not worth the money. The deko Harley Benton I have kicks my Kala's behind. I have Pyramid black tapewound strings on it and it's killer for what I paid.

In my experience, my deko Harley Benton Uke beats the crap out of my Kala, so Kala certainly don't have this corner of the market sewn up!

I have the bits for a PJ (with a classic 50's profile neck) sitting around waiting for me to get to so we're in the same boat!

Really enjoying this!

For the last few days I've been flitting back and forward between Tesseract's new album "Sonder" and, wait for it, Deacon Blue's top 15 songs on my "play music" app. Amos Williams and Ewen Vernal are both total beasts...

Splitter cable was my first thought... Actually change your desk was my first thought, but I assume you're not that commited to an IEM setup yet!

This is going to look lush...

I love a good P-bass, but it hasn't always been the case. It took playing an especially good one for me to "see the light". That opened the floodgates, so to speak. Now I wouldn't be without one! Err - why would a PJ be your ultimate bass then? Most PJ basses seem to have skinny J necks...

Mostly because there aren't many alternatives!

I'd second the used Yamaha BB1024 and add the X for aesthetic appeal (i.e. BB1024X). Other than that you could look for a used Fender Deluxe Active P Bass Special (yes that's actual name...). I had one briefly and, other than the awful gold plastic faux-anodised pickguard, it was a fine bass that I sold too cheaply...

Lovely!

I think they mean up there where the dust collects....

Could you put that in your signature Alan, or would the basschat police get you?

Google too much hassle?

Been around a while