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Kazan

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Everything posted by Kazan

  1. One of the best music films - well, films, period - I've ever seen. Absolutely fantastic on every level. Amazing sound quality for the time as well.
  2. I submit my '65 Meazzi Jupiter. Was pretty steampunk before that was even a concept - plus everything serves an actual function (and there are even gears, though they are internal).
  3. Ah... I so regret not buying this when it was first offered (and would have been without VAT as I'm in the EU). Good luck with the trade!
  4. Sure. And, yet, this is not the first time I've heard what OP mentioned about this specific cab - problems with the B string when using other heads (as well as actually blowing ). This was why I chose a pair of the TE 2x8 instead even though my first leaning was to the 1x10s as they are smaller and lighter.
  5. An interesting consideration is that the voicing on the TE 1x10 is focused on the low mids and seems to cut off the subharmonic lows to achieve higher perceived volume. A Peavey/TE rep commented on the head itself "Someone was asking about a HPF ...there is a filter in the ELF primarily designed to keep the infrasonic frequencies out of the speaker...but shouldn't be audibly noticeable" - so, if the cab is designed to go with a head which essentially has a built in high pass filter, it would not be surprising that it might not match well with other amps without this (particularly if higher powered).
  6. Given the Elf head and matching TE 1x10 is the starting point, I'd go for adding another cab over putting more power through the existing cab. While the TE 1x10 is rated 300w I have heard of some blowing when driven with more power (as opposed to the TE 2x8 which does well driven by more by all accounts)
  7. Hard to tell 100% from the photo but that looks like a hybrid guard to me (they can still break and distort, just not as easily as the all celluloid ones - the celluloid top layer still shrinks but the PVC layers much less so). The reason I say I think it's one with PVC base layers is the very thin black layer which is typical for those. The all celluloid ones tend to have a much thicker black layer by comparison - as well as slight translucence to the white layers.
  8. Very nice bass. The guards on '65s and '66s were often hybrids - celluloid tort layer on top of PVC rather than celluloid white-black-white. These are great in they have the real celluloid look but they hold up much better over time and don't shrink as much or crack/break as easily as the earlier all celluloid ones.
  9. Perhaps call the one he has listed now a bargain then? Certainly compared to the used P for £1800. Not sure which you mean for £1600 but agree that's good value for money. To clarify, I think John's instruments (and restoration work) are under-priced. The thing with the P bass strikes me the same as ticket scalping or other examples of inflated resale.
  10. Much more reasonable price on that one, too.
  11. He does not charge more for SB. If this P is the same one I think it is it was listed several weeks before your Jazz and the Jazz was priced higher. I really considered buying the Jazz at the time (and wish I did as I'm in the EU and would have to tack on additional VAT if I were to buy one now). Besides, a proper vintage blonde is itself a burst of sorts, albeit subtle; the outer edge should be sprayed opaque to cover end grain and lamination joints. This is a detail even the Custom Shop instruments missed for years. On the restoration of my '66 J he did it over a SB and the upcharge was nominal. It was sort of a shame as he sent photos while in progress and it was an absolutely beautiful SB! I don't know if the tactic of trying to sell for more than new is going to work. I think Oliver is correct and around 1500 has been what most I've seen go for used (which is still great retention of value for any new instrument).
  12. Yeah, I was trying to remember. I think it's had another 100 added on over what it was new IIRC, though not absolutely certain.
  13. That's exactly it. And when he posts a completed bass (or guitar) they almost always sell within a day. The bass in this OP was a real exception in that it was on his site for about a week. I recall this same (I think) P-bass from just a little earlier and the price was the same or perhaps even less than the asking price in the ad, so that's interesting to see. I had him do a restoration and he actually did give regular updates and send photos along the way. I had no problems with his communications. It looks like he just checks email once in the morning and again in the afternoon and then focuses on the work as he's a one person shop. One can see how his groove would get thrown off by constantly having to interrupt what he's doing to answer the phone. Plus when it's in email it can be referred back to so no subjective misinterpretation of phone conversations. His work is top level and miles beyond stuff like Nash.
  14. Pretty much the same price as new.
  15. PS it's over sunburst. Also back of the neck still is original finish.
  16. Fair enough!
  17. Just to show the difference, first image the headstock from the bass in the listing. It's not poorly done but not remarkable.Tthe 'wear' was clearly sandpaper/buffing compound. Looks like no clear-coat. Again, I could do similar as a weekend project in a garage. The pink one is my '66 refinished by Bravewood (no issue on the decal as the bass is a genuine '66 Fender).
  18. Usually customers doing so after the fact. But they are accurate enough that it would make it easy to get ripped off by someone reselling and misrepresenting. I know Bravewood marks inside the pickup cavities to help prevent this.
  19. No, he builds the necks and bodies himself. They are much more accurate on the small details.
  20. Yeah, trying to be diplomatic. I find Nash's 'aging' over obvious - particularly on the necks. I've sprayed nitro myself and see the Nash guitars and basses as kit instruments just put together by someone else. I could do the same - I could not, however, approach what Bravewood (or Clive Brown) does. Whole other level of skill and done with an artist's eye.
  21. I've owned way too many genuine vintage Fenders and think the Bravewoods get much closer to the 'vibe' of the real ones than the Nashs and the aging looks far more authentic. Also Bravewood scratch builds his necks and bodies where, so far as I'm aware, Nash has been off the shelf parts - like Allparts, etc - and then finishes and assembles.
  22. Thanks! It's a refin by Bravewood and is just "super faded Fiesta Red" (Fiesta mixed with some white). The idea was to aim for the more pink hue of some of the mythical "Selmer refins" or the very rare Fender "Tahitian Coral" (only one known example - a Strat). The color is a bit warmer looking in real life than it looks in the photo.
  23. So tempting...
  24. Good background. All makes me wonder if this is not the same bass. When I communicated with the guy it was during the first lockdown and they were not open - he sent me a storeroom photo of the bass. I thought he'd be motivated to make the sale or at least consider shipping given the circumstances, but no (he was very polite though).
  25. Congrats! Rare find. Mine took a bit of set up work but plays great now. As @Bassassin says, the one in Edinburgh was £2200 (also white with pinkish pickguard and with the case so maybe the same one?) - I talked to the guy there and he was firm on the price at that time. The ones I've seen for sale in Australia have tended to be priced in the AUS $2,500-$4,500 range. Less if missing/replaced parts, refinished or without the case. Also, as Bassassin says, these are very niche so may not move fast regardless. That one in Edinburgh was there for at least 6 months (assuming it has since sold - don't know). I considered it but opted not to given the price/no flexibility on it and that they would not ship.
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