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bassjamm

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Everything posted by bassjamm

  1. Hmm...can I just ask if it is more of a pinky red or the Pino Palladino kind of red?
  2. [quote name='BigRedX' post='1122358' date='Feb 10 2011, 09:36 AM']If you're still thinking of getting a Thunderbird, just bear in mind that the Epiphone versions have little in come with the Gibson originals other than the basic shape. The woods, construction and electronics are all very different. You definitely need to try before you buy.[/quote] Thanks for that. I've done some research and it appears that the Goth version is the only one made from mahogany which is true to the original I believe. To be honest though, I'm not sure it's the way I want to go. The Ripper and the Retrovibe have got a lot more appeal!
  3. The black is tasty isn't it...but there's something about the natural one! Ha...you want me to road test it do you? lol! Either colour? How do you think it'll sound compared to a Precision?
  4. If it were the Ripper...which colour, black or natural? Black Natural
  5. What does this sound like kind sir? Any comparisons?
  6. [quote name='Shockwave' post='1121698' date='Feb 9 2011, 06:43 PM']I would personally go for the ripper! No reason though...[/quote] I must admit...it is the challenger for me too!!! But the Retrovibe is really interesting too!
  7. Blademan_98 - May I ask what has led you to decide on the RV4? [quote name='niceguyhomer' post='1121683' date='Feb 9 2011, 06:32 PM']Bloody hell Jamie - where ya been? [/quote] Staying off here to avoid GAS...I get back and within a week I want a new bass! Ha! How you been pal?
  8. Hi everyone... Having managed to stay relatively GAS free for about a year now I've had a pretty nasty attack in the past day or so...oh dear! I've currently got a Fender P bass, it's a USA Highway One and it's awesome, love it. Having whittled down to just this from the F Bass, Marleaux, Warwick's etc...this one is a keeper! But I fancy something a little different and I've been taken by the following: Epiphone Ripper Epiphone Thunderbird (maybe even the Goth one) Retrovibe RV4 Now I love the whole P/J thing going on with the Ripper, and it's all maple which will back some punch. The Thunderbird, it's been of interest for years due to it's darkness and mystique. And the Retrovibe, I've always loved the Rick shape, and the sound clips I've heard of these have been awesome...loads of balls. But alas, I know not what to do. I'm playing in a Pop Punk band at the moment, so the P fits in nicely, I'd just like something else from time to time. Any thoughts on the above and what they would offer in comparison to one another? I'm guessing the T-Bird will offer the most depth, and Ripper a more versitile version of what I already have, and the Retrovibe probably the most versatile and punchy...but prove me wrong! Also love the Ripper's looks and the RV4. I've not played any of them, and likely won't be able to any time soon either... Thanks in advance... Jamie
  9. [quote name='Bass_Guardian' post='1119803' date='Feb 8 2011, 09:42 AM']Irvine in Bonny Scotland my good man[/quote] Thank you kind sir. Just on the look out for a friend who's wanting to start playing, but we're no where near you. How much would postage be if that's an option? Thanks Jamie
  10. Where are you please mate?
  11. Oooph...my old beast! This is a seriously awesome fretless!
  12. Ha...thanks for that Don't worry, I wouldn't sue you if i messed it up
  13. This is all really helpful stuff thanks How about working out which frets are too high etc? Just anything that's a straight edge? Thanks again. Jamie
  14. [quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='704604' date='Jan 7 2010, 07:01 PM']I did all my fretted basses using some cheap flat files from my local hardware shop and some steel wool. Wasn't a particularly scientific method to it, but it wasn't that difficult and made a major difference to the action I could achieve. The main thins are to be patient, to mask the entire fretboard off with at least two layers of tape and try and keep the neck as straight as possible while doing, so any high or low spots are more obvious. One other thing I did was to colour the top of each fret with a black pen- that way you can tell whether you've missed any spots, and tends to highlight anywhere the fret wear is particularly bad.[/quote] That's great help thank you I've ordered some files off the internet, so that'll get me on my way I think. What grade steel wool did you use to polish them then? Thanks Jamie
  15. [quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='703898' date='Jan 7 2010, 10:36 AM']Try Ronseal French polish for the neck,i have used it before with good results. Body stain,to give that grubby look ? wood dye.[/quote] The neck already has some aged dye or something on it. I think I need to wear down the top coat though, where your hand would go, then rub some kind of grub into it. I've got a dark wood stain already, that's what the black/dark stuff is on the exposed wood. But I think it's almost too dark, but not dark enough on the exposed wood where there's still a little top coat. Does that make sense? Think I might need to rough the clear coat up a bit to help the dye take to it, then work it down again and buff it all back up. In any case...it's certainly an interesting little project
  16. Thanks for that chaps...this is all good feed back and exactly what I'm after. I need to use a better camera on it for some more pics I think. But yeah Mark, the scratch plate hasn't been worked on yet, just the body thus far. Not sure how i'll relic it but i'll find a way Any thoughts on the wood colouring...too dark, too light? Thanks Jamie
  17. Well here's some photos of the body...any input would be great. I'm going to create a build thread a bit further down the line, but wanted to post some photos up on here to get your feedback and thoughts. I think the wood stain is a bit too black personally, but it doesn't seem to take too well to the exposed wood that still has some clear finish on it. I also need to get a finer grade of wet and dry paper...1200 grit leaves a bit of a scratchy surface, although I've sanded a fair bit. Think I might need to T Cut it a few more times to wear the scratches down a bit. What do you all think? The bold patch near the bridge on the front is going to be roughly where my thumb would rest when the jazz pickup gets routed in. Some pics before: [attachment=39570:DSC00442.JPG] [attachment=39571:DSC00439.JPG] Some pics during: [attachment=39572:DSC00452.JPG] [attachment=39573:DSC00453.JPG] [attachment=39574:DSC00454.JPG] Some pic after: [attachment=39568:DSC00461.JPG] [attachment=39569:DSC00458.JPG] Any thoughts then folks? Particularly on the wood stain...should i get a lighter stain to treat the wood? And what about the T Cut on the finish...will it take out the scratches? Thanks in advance... Jamie
  18. Anyone got any thoughts on how to age a neck, both on the back and the fingerboard?
  19. That's about a lush as a vintage bass can look in my opinion...!!! Hmm...need to find myself some serious dosh or a rickenbacker to trade sharpish!!!
  20. Thanks for the replies chaps. Think I'll get that book then as it seems like it'll be a good resource for me. Any other thoughts would be welcome though thank folks...so please keep them coming Jamie
  21. Hello everyone, I've just embarked on a bass project, my first, so I'm pretty new to all this. I have however got a bit of experience when it comes to making bridge and truss rod adjustments for action and what not, but I'd like to extend this on to the fretboard and learn how to dress the frets and do it all properly. Can anyone recommend any good resources, or any good tools to use? So far i've been looking at the following, so any thoughts would be great please... [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=diamond+file&x=0&y=0&fingerprint=+HUC"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss?url=se...ingerprint=+HUC[/url] [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_sq_top?ie=UTF8&keywords=dan%20erlewines%20guitar%20repair%20book&index=blended&pf_rd_p=471057153&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0879309210&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=0QGP440HKA1MMWG17BKB"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp...40HKA1MMWG17BKB[/url] Thanks in advance. Jamie
  22. [quote name='neepheid' post='701755' date='Jan 5 2010, 03:49 PM']The main reason is to achieve a low action where the bridge saddles cannot go any lower. The classic example is the replacement of the standard Fender bridge with the Badass II - the thicker base plate means that the saddles can't go as low as the old bridge. A tiny change in neck angle means that the saddles have to be set higher to achieve the same action as was before the shimming. You shouldn't need to change truss rod unless you change the strings - same strings, same tension, all you've done is make a tiny change to the angle the neck meets the body. See the guide in the stickies of this forum : [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49897"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49897[/url][/quote] Thank you very much kind sir...most helpful indeed!
  23. Hello everyone, I was just wondering why it is that some people tend to shim the neck pockets of their basses...what's the advantage of this? And How would I need to adjust the truss rod and action to compensate for any shimming? Thanks Jamie
  24. Ah no...the temptation...take it away from me you evil man!
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