petetexas

[quote name='Beedster' post='571007' date='Aug 16 2009, 08:19 PM']Hi mate, thanks for the post. I've tried everything and am pretty sure it's actually dodgy. I gigged it Friday and the switches were unusable, firstly because the sound was mud and secondly because the volume changed dramatically from one to the other. Also although the high and low boost controls work predictably, they do not makes anything like as much difference at gig volume despite than my J-Retro which is in turn way less than most other pre-amps I've used (e.g., Sadowsky. Bart, Aguillar etc). I'm going to uninstall it tomorrow and try it with my Nordstrands in case the suggestion above that for whatever reason the Audere doesn't like Fender PUPs is actually true. I'll update tomorrow Chris[/quote] Hi Chris, I have just bought one (JZ3) on e-bay, had a problem when I fitted it to my American Standard Jazz. No output from the bridge p/up. Checked the wiring, re checked , and rechecked, could find nothing wrong. Got a mate to check it, he found straight away that I had connected the bridge earth to the bridge p/up earth input ! What I am saying is ......get someone else to check the wiring........new pair of eyes and all that. Once I had corrected that ........WOW .......what a difference the active EQ makes ! Pete

Hi All, Just a few lines to thank Alex Claber ( openly) for all the information and suggested mods to my 4x12 bass cab. It started by me asking him if Barefaced Cabs make a 1x15 and 2x10 combined cab. The reply was no, but then he asked me why. I informed him that the cab I had was not giving me enough "bottom " (mid`s and top ok ) , even though it was "tuned "as per instructions from Celestion - port length etc. Alex asked me for the internal volume / speaker spec`s / port sizes / Head I was using etc, and within about an hour he got back to me, saying the port length was wrong, and suggested I mod them to the sizes he recommended. I was GOB SMACKED after I modded the ports to his recommendations. The bottom end was there ! THANKS AGAIN ALEX - BRILLIANT FREE ADVICE ! Pete

[quote name='DHA' post='837046' date='May 14 2010, 12:00 PM']It will need rebiasing. The matching is saying that all four new valves are matched (which they need to be) but the amps bias current needs to be set to work correctly with them.[/quote] Thanks ......... Pete

Hi, My Hiwatt 200W Valve Head has just blown a Valve ( a crack has appeared around the glass on one of the KT 88 Valves ) It blew the mains fuse ( which I assume it should do ) . My question is .........I have just bought a set of 4 matched Electro Harmonix KT 88 valves ( the original valves have been in there for at least 3 years, so they must be getting "worn out " ), do I need to get them re-biased, or because they are a matched set of 4 just plug and play ? Any info would be appreciated......... Pete

Experienced Bass Player - mid fifties, looking to form or join a band in Coventry or surrounding area. Music - Lizzy, Free , Doobie Brothers etc - but will play anything ( except Funk ) Own transport, and pro gear.

[quote name='petetexas' post='692918' date='Dec 24 2009, 01:02 PM']Hi Guys, Now fitted and wired up the 4 speakers, linned the inside of the cab, awaiting the two plastic ports to go in back panel. Tried it with my Hiwatt 200 Valve head, with the back panel fitted ( no ports ) sounds very `restricted`. Cant wait till I get the ports fitted. Keep you posted Pete[/quote] Update, Have now fitted the two 100 mm dia ports, and left them 180mm long as bought. Got a tech guy to feed a sine wave, using a signal generator, into my HIWATT 200 Valve Bass Head and the cab, and found that the cab `vibrates` at 22 / 24 Htz. The rest of the time there is is no vibration . The sound is really even and smooth across the fretboard, no particular notes are `booming`. Does this mean the cab is tuned to 23 Htz ? Pete

[quote name='DHA' post='694882' date='Dec 28 2009, 03:15 PM']Yes.[/quote] Thanks............. pete

Hi, Is the output from a valve amp the same, regardless of which ( 4 ohm, 6 ohm or 16 ohm ) selection you use ? Obviously you have to match up to your cab / cabs to the output imp on the amp. Thanks Pete

[quote name='petetexas' post='690468' date='Dec 21 2009, 10:56 AM']Hi Guys, Had a reply from Celestion................. Use two tubes 100mm dia x 125 mm long - but experiment with the length - longer will give more bass, shorter will give more punch. Thanks guys , for all the help...... Will let you know how I get on......... Pete[/quote] Hi Guys, Now fitted and wired up the 4 speakers, linned the inside of the cab, awaiting the two plastic ports to go in back panel. Tried it with my Hiwatt 200 Valve head, with the back panel fitted ( no ports ) sounds very `restricted`. Cant wait till I get the ports fitted. Keep you posted Pete

Hi Guys, Had a reply from Celestion................. Use two tubes 100mm dia x 125 mm long - but experiment with the length - longer will give more bass, shorter will give more punch. Thanks guys , for all the help...... Will let you know how I get on......... Pete

[quote name='alexclaber' post='689221' date='Dec 19 2009, 05:06 PM']Hi Pete, You need to find the T/S parameters for the Celestions and load them into WinISD (Pro is better). Then find the max power handling and then find the port air speed for that power input, and then adjust the port area to get the air speed reasonably low. Once you're settled on a tuning frequency and port area then you can get the port lengths. Test the actual tuning vs predicted tuning with a sine wave generator and some salt on the cone - minimum movement at the tuning frequency. Don't forget to ensure the cab is sufficiently braced and damped before you reassemble it. Alex[/quote] Thanks guys, This is far more complicated than I thought ! ! ! ( The cab is all ply, and braced front to back ) I have sent the info ( volume and type of speakers ) to Celestion, asking for their suggestions. Will keep you posted. Thanks again Pete