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joescartwright

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Posts posted by joescartwright

  1. So I received this pedal on Thursday afternoon and was involved in a car crash on Thursday evening. No-one was hurt but I do now need my money back!!!

     

    It's still within it's returns period so it can go back to JF but I thought I'd see if anyone on here was interested first. I can't offer any discount on the new price but it would save you the wait and the faff of dealing with customs. I paid £425 (direct from Jad Freer on Reverb) and duty/tax came to £85 so £510 all in, I'll include UK delivery in that price.

     

    Thanks,

    Joe.

    IMG_7912.jpg

    • Like 7
  2. Clear out of a few pedals, they have dual lock on the bases see photos for condition. £5 UK postage each.

     

    Malekko Diabolik, with box - Sold

    Way Huge Pork Loin, no box - Sold

    Darkglass VMT, with box - Sold

    COG Tarkin, with box  Sold

    FDeck HPF-pre, no box - Sold (I bought this from the builder a long time ago, not a clone. The sticker on the front has come off over the years but it's just volume, HPF (35hz-140hz) and phase switch. 9v DC centre negative for power.

    Bright Onion 5 channel true bypass looper, no box - £40

     

    Happy to post elsewhere, get in touch and I'll get a quote.

     

    Cheers,

    J

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. From what I’ve read a dead spot around the 5th fret on the G string comes up over and over and again. Particularly with Fender basses and other basses with similar construction.

     

    I’ve also read several stories of Leo Fender stating it was an issue and then suggesting adding weight to the neck.

     

    Wether or not that’s actually correct I’m not sure though.

  4. I’ve got a few P basses, all of them have dead spots centring around C/D on the G string that drive me a little bit insane!

    I’ve read a bit about it which come to the general conclusion that it’s almost inherent in the design that there is a lack of resonance in this region and you can minimise it by adding weights...

     

    I was just wondering why it would be the case that playing the same pitches on the other strings wouldn’t experience the same resonance issues?

    I've found the problem to be far more pronounced with flats than rounds which got me wondering how much of an influence the strings have.

    If anyone has any insight I’d be very interested to hear it!

     

    Cheers,

    Joe

  5. My middle finger sounds pretty different to my index finger and it really bugs me. Over the past couple of years I've been transitioning slowing to playing more and more with one finger, a la Jamerson, and my dexterity has come on a bunch but I'm always a little concerned about RSI/carpal tunnel/arm amputation...

     

    Anyone else out there hookin' it up? Or any ex-hookers with tales of disaster? 

    Any hints/tips/warns would be much appreciated,

    Cheers!

  6. I've had a Walkabout for a few years now and I love the vibe of the amp but I could do with something with a bit more power.

    As much as I'd love to just grab a big ol' valve amp I really need to stick with a rig which is at least as portable as the walkabout, a little lighter all in would be a bonus, but it's gotta have that vintagey vibe.

     

    Any suggestions?

  7. I have an old Mustang bass which I love but the low E string lacks fundamental and clarity. There's quite a strong harmonic ringing happening on that string an octave and a fifth above the note and it occurs with open and fretted notes. I've changed the strings (flats) but no luck there.

     

    Is there anything I can do to fix this? I didn't know whether it would be a setup problem or maybe something to do with the fact that the pole pieces don't line up anywhere near the strings (E string in particular).

     

    Any advice would be very appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Joe.

  8. 2 hours ago, Phil Starr said:

    I'd say the sweet spot for valve amps is around the 100W mark. Any more than that and they get pretty heavy, and expensive. you can get away with a little less power with a valve amp because you can drive them up to their limits and the resulting overload is quite pleasing rather than unpleasantly distorted. Remember valve watts and solid state watts are still watts though, there's no magic going on just nicer distortion. Even that Barefaced isn't mega efficient compared with the old speakers that used to be used with valve amps 98dB/W will give 118dB with a 100w amp. My 1x12 gives 121db with a 300W amp and is just capable of matching a drumkit. That leaves you 3dB down though I think you should be able to push an extra 3dB higher on average because it's a valve amp.

    I suppose what I'm saying is it's very do-able but you won't have a lot to spare on a very loud stage. If you had a couple of 2x10's then you'd be sweet. Hope that helps

    What's the maths behind those numbers? (I'm intrigued not being critical)

  9. Yeah, the WA sounds great but the few times I've played all valve the feel has been notably different. The transients seem much more apparent in a way I've not experienced with solid state gear.

     

    The WB-100 looks like a good option, the lack of controls is a definite plus for me, I'd be happy with just volume and gain! @wateroftyne What does that little switch on the right hand side do?

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