JPJ

It does give you the option of using AES50 for a digital split if the FOH is also using an x32 product.

A few more inputs (if you add a stage box) as the x32 has er 32 channels available whereas the XR18 has 16 plus the usual stereo channel hence the ‘18’. You will have a lot more routing options in the x32 but with it a much steeper learning curve. Same with effects, but if you are only using the desk for IEM’s that shouldn’t be an issue. You’re more than welcome to come and have a play with my XR18 if you want before you commit to the x32?

So our gig yesterday was er challenging. Firstly our singer arrived at the gig with a sore throat which got progressively worse over the two sets. Then, just one song from the end of the first set, the PA tripped. Looks like one of our extension reels took exception to the rather warm and humid conditions and tripped its thermal protection, even though the reel itself was stone cold and the cable was fully uncoiled (a lesson learned from the past). Then, during soundcheck all our in-ears were working fine, but as soon as we fired up in earnest, mine started suffering massive dropouts. So I quickly had our roadie/helper/harmonica player reel out another XLR to move my transmitter to my side of the ‘stage’ at which point I had perfect signal, but the singer/guitarist then suffered drop outs (we’re both using X-Vives and we’ve never had this before). So I finished the first set old school, no plugs or IEM’s and I had forgotten just how loud this is, and how difficult it is to pick your bass out in the mix when you are a) stood virtually on top of you cab, and b) right next to the drums. Second set I went wired with my Behringer P2M and no further problems. Oh and did I mention it was hotter than hell in the venue, a smallish pub with a great reputation for live music and fine ales.

If you are going with the MS8000 then you could save on the X32 rack and go with an X-Air XR18 which is currently retailing for an unbelievable £359

Sounds like a good plan to me. My reference to epoxy cracking was it terms of a layer of filler rather than an epoxy glue that you are proposing with veneer. My only concern with your method is how well the edge of the veneer/epoxy will feather back to the original finish, before you apply your new finish. But, if you intend using automotive style poly rattle cans, Halfords fine filler spray might be enough to mask the join.

I think the app choice depends on your choice of control device. I use the Behringer X-Air Edit app on a Microsoft Surface Go, but I have X-Air Edit on Mac, and the iPad app as back up. I’ve tried Mixing Station and I can’t get away with either the ‘skin’ or the complexity of the app. The workflow is pretty much the same as any other analogue mixer, but without the massive amounts of outboard you need in the analogue world.

So this little thing just keeps on impressing me. Tried her out through my EV ZLX15P’s last night and it sounds great. The four band eq on each channel is quite powerful but still musical, and the six band eq on the main outs is similarly musical, and you can make both of these semi-parametric if you want to adjust the width of your boost or cut, but in truth I don’t think I’ll need to do this for most of my planned uses. One thing I’ve noticed is the metering between the hardware and the software is slightly different, probably due to more graduations on the software side (i.e. four bars of yellow on the app equates to 1 bar of yellow on the hardware LED meter). The two effects processors work as you would expect, with a couple of really nice reverbs that work well with VOX and acoustic guitar. This weekend I intend messing around with the USB out recording, so expect a further update later. Ooh one last thing, if you get one of these, when setting up your channels, play around with the input presets - some are not what they seem. I was feeding the desk with a DI signal from my bass pedal board which I know to be a super quiet DI out. I used the ‘line’ preset and found it to be noisy, like very noisy. Changed the preset to bass guitar and the noise disappeared whilst the signal strength improved. So there is obviously quite a bit going on in the presets so you might have to try a few to find the best one for your particular instrument (note: not all physical inputs have the same presets available).

Shrinkage is almost inevitable. One of the best luthiers/refinishers in the business filled an aftermarket battery compartment on a bass before refinishing and even he suffered from shrinkage or print through showing the outline of the filled area. There are ways to avoid this using a skim of epoxy filler, but this will add weight, definitely affect resonance, and may itself crack down the line. A safer method might be to veneer the front of the bass after filling the cavities, this would probably be my preferred method but then you have to deal with the edge of the veneer, itself another challenge.

Nobody has yet mentioned that refinishes, even really well done refinishes, generally reduce the value of the instrument. That said, refinishing was very popular back in the 60’s & 70’s so a lot of ‘vintage’ instruments have had a refinish at some stage in their life. As you seem to be proposing a refinish simply to suit one gig, albeit your main gig, have you considered wrapping instead of paint? Easily reversible if your gig ever changes and no impact on long term value?

You could try the Basschat 1x10 here

So I have been having such a positive experience since I started using my IEM’s more and more, with the exception that even the largest Comply tip doesnt seem to want to stay sealed in my left ear. As suggested by @dave_bass5 I’ve tried a smaller tip too without success. So, I am now thinking of going down the custom moulded route. My question is, is there a significant advantage in going with a vented ambient IEM such as the ACS Evolve over a standard non-vented ambient design? I’ve had great service from my ACS custom moulded ear protection, and I am minded to go with them for my IEM solution with the Evolve being about the price point I’d like to pay.

So, following on from my earlier post with the electric bass board, some goodies arrived this morning from Anderson’s to complete the meagre double bass / EUB board. Everything I need and nothing I don’t 😎

So decision made, I’ve gone for simplicity. My doubling gig has become a full on acoustic gig (with PA support of course) so I’ve decided to go with two boards as the combined board was starting to look like I might be over compensating for something. This will be the electric bass board and has only what I need to make my beautiful basses sound more beautiful. The Capo and the Empress are recent purchases but boy are they good/worth the money in my book.