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Everything posted by JPJ
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Do you multiple cabs from the same company, what do you have & why?
JPJ replied to jazzyvee's topic in Amps and Cabs
Oh I miss it, but my back doesn’t 😂 But this was one hell of a rig 😍 -
Do you multiple cabs from the same company, what do you have & why?
JPJ replied to jazzyvee's topic in Amps and Cabs
I started my SWR obsession with the old 4x10 + 1x15 combination, then went to the 2 x 4x10’s , then the 6x10, before finally realising that for anything less than a stadium gig (which I’ve never had the pleasure of playing) I only really needed a single cab (first a SWR 4x10, then lately a Vanderkley 2x12). I now don’t own any SWR cabs and I’m playing more and more gigs with no backing at all. Funny how things change as you age 😎 -
I’m no expert but the RSC logo is making me think Radio Shack that was sold in the UK via Tandy stores until around 1999?
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Yep, I use the German bass & Czech bass models, German darker sounding, and Czech bass more open and airy
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I’ve been successfully using 3Sigma double bass IR’s loaded into a TC Impulse pedal to make my NS EUB sound more like a double bass when playing live. As others have said, there is a whole lot more than cab sims available in the IR world, and it’s well worth getting up to speed with the various options out there.
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Please recommend a DB for Bluegrass and the like
JPJ replied to fretmeister's topic in EUB and Double Bass
I agree being a recent convert to the double bass, a Boosey Hawkes Excelsior makes an excellent blue grass choice. If laminate basses are good enough for Barry Bales, then they are good enough for me 😎 I’m using mine in an acoustic Americana trio and it fits perfectly, and shes a blonde 😎 -
For me, this comes down to practicality and transport. Powered cabs cut down on the amount of stuff you have to shlep to your gig. Component (or separate amps) give you more flexibility in the event of a component failure, although it has to be said that modern gear is so much more reliable. Soundwise, imho a sub will always improve the out front sound, and will allow you to mic the whole band whilst still getting the vocals clear and loud out front (after all, this is what a PA is for).
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Last nights ‘gig’ was an appearance at the Black Horse Sunday Sessions - a buskers night in Boldon Colliery that features guess artists and last night it was us! Lovely old pub that was packed with music lovers and performers, and really well run by two stalwarts of the local music scene up here in the north east, Paul ‘Big Red’ Randall & Paul ‘Chumsy’ Chambers. This is the second of such nights we’ve had the pleasure of playing and I’ve got to say I love them. For the gear heads I was playing my Boosey Hawkes Excelsior ‘Lilly’ through the rather marvellous EBS Stanley Clarke preamp and SushiBoxFX ‘Finally’ valve DI straight into the house PA. Sound was run by fellow bass man Paul Chambers who got me a great natural tone.
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I’m about to change the strings on my Boosey Hawkes excelsior for the first time in my ownership. I have a new set of light Spirocores sitting here ready to go on, and I’ve watched videos on YouTube from the likes of Geoff Chalmers on the ‘how to’ but before I dive in, I thought I’d ask the Basschat massive whether you have any cunning tips, do’s/don’ts etc? Also, how long do new double bass strings take to stretch and settle? I have a gig on Sunday so I’ll hold off changing strings until after then, but it would be good to know the general rule of thumb on this.
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Just wanted to give a HUGE shout out to @bremen for undertaking this re-housing job for me and for doing it to such a professional level with an unbelieveable 1-day turn around. I must also say that as a result of @bremen’s amazing generosity, our local food bank is now able to offer support to one more family this week. The world needs more people like him and he is an absolute credit to the Basschat community. As to the pedal, I have a cunning plan for finishing the pedal with a custom graphic. Stand-by for further on this once I’ve got to grips with GIMP (the software!)
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Re thinking this. When you use X-Air Edit on PC (I use it on an old Microsoft Surface Go), when connecting to the X-Air mixer you get the option to transfer settings from the PC to the Mixer or Mixer to PC, so I am guessing you could build a scene file offline then upload this to the mixer the next time you connect. I say guessing because I haven’t tested this. I know that this doesn’t work with the iPad app as this goes straight into demo mode when opened with the iPad not connected to the mixer.
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Ooh I like that! Would be great for when we add a middle 8 of Kashmir into another song. But at that price for 16 bars in one song, I think I’ll continue playing it an octave higher 😂
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Looks like one of the small ABY boxes may be the way to go then. I see Mooer do a nice little unit. That said, I’d be careful there @itu it looks like you are close to letting the cat out of the bag (………..I’ll get my coat) 😂
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Yes you can do this, but only whilst connected to the desk. The Behringer apps will only run in demo mode unless actually connected to an XR18. Not sure about Mixing Station - that may have offline functionality?
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With that budget you are firmly in second-hand Overwater territory. For a workhorse, a 35” scale J series should tick all of your boxes, but if you want something more modern sounding, keep a look out for a Progress series, beloved by pro studio and pit musicians. Good thing about going down this route is you are getting a premium quality hand made UK bass where someone else has already borne the painful cost of depreciation. Buy well and you might even make money should you choose to sell in future. Add to that a business that’s still run by the original owner and who is always just a phone call away for support if needed, what’s not to like? As you might have guessed, I’m an Overwater fanboi who currently owns three of these beautiful instruments, one of which (my J series) has literally done hundreds of gigs as my workhorse go-to bass.
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I did think of this, but space is of a premium on my little board hence the original enquiry.
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So my little pedal board is great and because I regularly double on electric bass, acoustic bass, upright, EUB, and all combinations in between I have the EBS Stanley Clarke at the heart, and a SushiboxFX Finally valve DI at the end. For electric gigs, I’m thinking of adding my Sansamp back onto my board, but it seems daft to daisy chain two preamps when one will only ever get used with electric bass or to run the Sansamp in the loop of the Stanley Clarke (which is what I used to do). Is there any reason why I can’t connect the two preamps to the Finally DI with a simple Y cable. I realise I’ll have to be careful balancing the output volumes of the two preamps, but other than this, is there a technical reason why this will not work?
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Being located approximately 300 miles north of Wapping, i used to pore over the Bass Centre adverts in magazines envious of the outrageous amount of desirable bass gear on display. Don’t get me wrong, we were reasonably well served with bass gear up here in the north with Newcastle having several good musical instrument shops such as Rock City, Kitchens, McKays (secondhand emporium), and JG Windows (which only closed down in the last 12 months 😔), alongside the original Overwater works “Chris & Andy’s” and many secondhand shops that would have an occasional bass treasure in stock. Back in 1982 I bought my Ibanez RS940TV from the aforementioned J G Windows convinced that a fretless bass would attract the female of the species faster than a bottle of high strength pheromone 😂 (it didn’t). Good news is that i still own her today, and even though she never leaves the house these days (far too much sentimental value), she’s still got the best neck of any bass Ive owned (and there’s been a few 😬). Note to self, must take a better photo of the old girl.
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No, you’re not expecting too much. I can get my NXT4 passive pretty close to my Boosey Hawkes Excelsior (ply) db. The secret to the nasal quality of piezo’s is in the upper mids. I’m using the TC Electronics Impulse pedal with the 3Sigma German bass IR, then from the Impulse I go to the marvellous EBS Stanley Clarke preamp pedal. IMHO you’ll never get the NS to sound exactly like a db, as you cannot get the airy breathy top end and squash that nasal honk but you can get close.
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So with my main band now being all on in-ears, we’re thinking about adding an ambient mic or two to ‘warm up’ the in-ear mix as it can be a little sterile and isolating. Question to the Basschat PA guys & girls, are you using ambient mics and if so, what are you using and how do you set them up (position, eq etc)?
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We played our first gig of 2025 at a regular haunt of ours, the Old Fox in Felling, Gateshead. This pub has a reputation for live music and it has a knowledgable music loving crowd so it’s always a pleasure to play. We were a fiddle player down which required revisiting a few old tunes and I made more mistakes last night than I have in all last years gigs - at times it felt like I was playing using someone else’s left hand. I also managed to bust the zip on my jeans, but fortunately my trusty Overwater spared my blushes 😅 Rig-wise, I used my Ashdown Neo 400w 1x15 combo which blows me away every time I use it, and my normal pedal board signal chain of Shute GLXD16 wireless, EBS Stanley Clarke pre, SushiboxFX Finally DI, and MicroThumpinator.
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On my board, i used to run my minimal effects through the fx loop but since i added the Sushiboxfx Finally v2 valve DI at the end of my signal chain, I have what fx i use after the preamp. With the EBS you have the option of running your fx in either serial or parallel through the loop. Parallel works reallly well if you want to maintain a solid bass tone whilst adding some dirt on top.
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Hire in with a sound guy (it’s a corporate gig, they should be able to afford it, and they’ll be setting the cost off against tax). I’ve done out door gigs with our rig (2xEV ZLX15P’s on poles above our old Peavey Pro15P bass bins) and got away with it. Someone once told me you need a minimum of 4 x the quantity of bass bins for an outside gig, don’t know whether that’s true or not but it sounds plausible to me.
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Another thing is that driver manufacturers will often talk of the frequency range in terms of +/- 3db. As driver frequency is a curve, the 45Hz might be at -3db, but the speaker will continue to produce much lower frequencies but at progressively lower spl (or ‘volume’ or ‘loudness’). At least thats how i understand it.