JPJ

So are we to conclude you have unlocked the ‘secret source’ of the Wal sound? Does this mean the people at Wal will either: a) take out a contract on you; b) send you a cease and desist; c) buy you out for mega bucks then bury your research? 😂

The majority of gigs I play these days are with a country/Americana band and I use the combo on its own, albeit with PA support.

I managed to pick up a 400W ABM Neo 1x15 combo, quite a rare beast by all accounts, which has turned me from being an Ashdown disliker to Ashdown lover. Paired with the matching Neo 1x15 cab on bigger gigs, I find this combo covers all my needs.

My first proper amp was an Ohm GB60, a horrendously underpowered 60W 1x15 combo with an H&H driver, but a lovely sound.

Indeed, loud enough for Derek Smalls

Did somebody say huge toroid?

They are rechargeable as well 😉

What you can’t see is the CIOKS DC7 strapped to the underside of the board which appears to cope admirably with the kit above.

Sure, here’s my bijou little ‘does it all’ board, used with EUB, and fretted and fretless electric basses. Wireless from the basses, hardwire for the EUB, with the SansAmp and the Plethora X3 in the effects loop of the EBS Stanley Clarke pre. DI out from the Stanley Clarke and amp feed via the Micro Thumpinator.

Just posting this because of how constantly amazed I am by the little TC Electronics BG250 208 combo, especially with my NS EUB. Wife was out yesterday so they both snuck into the lounge in her absence and it was a great opportunity for a photo 😎

Thanks Bill, I’ve found the same by experimentation ( in other words lots and lots of failed attempts) 😂

Companies like GR using sandwich construction will most likely be using a pre-preg (pre impregnated) carbon fibre mat cured in a vacuum oven. There are some air curing pre-pregs available but they are eye wateringly expensive and you still have to think about how you are going to finish it to seal it against moisture ingress. Alternatively, you can buy carbon fibre sheets either as pure carbon or foam cored from company’s such as these (no affiliation) but then you have to think about how you are going to construct the cabinet, oh and carbon sheet isn’t cheap either.

Funnily enough my NS NXT has dots all over the fingerboard. I try not to look because there’s too many of them and they put me off. Oh and no lines on my fretless P bass either 😉

I’m not as bad as I used to be (but still pretty bad): SWR SM1500 SWR Marcus Miller pre + SWR Amplite power amp Ashdown Geezer Butler signature ‘Head of Doom’ Ashdown ABM 400 1x15 neo combo TC Electronics BG250 208 combo

I’m Paul and so is my wife

I have mine at the end (last before the amp) to catch any damaging frequencies created by the Sub'n'up patch in the Plethora X3. It works for me, and I take the PA feed from my preamp pedal earlier in the chain so the PA gets everything.

Apologies, I've just reread my post from last night - I didn't mean to sound arsey 🤦‍♂️

If anybody is interested there’s a great video showing speaker cone extension without, and then with a Microthumpinator HPF. This visually demonstrates the “subtle effect” SFXSound Microthumpinator

Chris from my experience with first the Stagg and then the KK Baby Bass, getting the bass to stay in one position was the problem for me which necessitated a certain amount of left hand holding of the bass (although to be fair the KK was considerably better when sitting down). I’m now using an NS NXT on the stand and this problem is completely alleviated allowing a much better left hand position. In fact, the NS is even ok on the end pin attachment.

Those pickups sound great and very little volume difference between the neck and bridge pickups. I also like the finish, looks like one of those early eighties Washburn's

A personal influence and a lovely guy to boot. Back in the very early 2000's I almost bought that fretless Overwater from Rod, but young children and common sense prevented me from going ahead with the purchase.

I use a Fender Tony Franklin fretless, doubling on NS EUB, in an Americana/Country/Rock band, and like Beedster I actually find it easier to play fretless over fretted.

Great news, pleased to be able to help

The input pad is normally a small button next to or near the input or gain knob (circled in red on this Yamaha example)

Lots of stuff to check really. Most mixing desks in rehearsal rooms have been well abused by the less than knowledgeable. But in the case of your own desk (assuming this is an analogue desk) I’d first check that an input pad hasn’t been accidentally engaged. Then I’d go through 1) check the channel gain is correctly set, 2) check that there’s no compression on the channel, 3) check there’s no extreme eq on the channel, 4) depending on the desk, check that the subject channel is assigned to the correct group and that group master is where you want it to be. Sorry if I’m teaching granny to suck eggs with this post, and I’m no expert, but the above is based on my own personal experience. For more detailed help, it’s probably worth sharing which desk you are using and how old it is.