JPJ

As I'm now a fully confirmed Apple fanboy I've been looking for an alternative to WINISD for a while and stumbled on this whilst looking for something else - Faber Acoustical SpeakerDraft It's an app available from the AppStore to run on iPhone and iPad. The screenshots suggest it's very similar to WINISD but before I hit the buy button I thought I'd check to see whether there were any users on here and what they thought of it?

Check out Rothko and Frost www.rothkoandfrost.co.uk They do fiesta red in both cellulose and nitro-cellulose at about £14 for a 400ml aerosol. The secret with any paint job is the preparation and using the right colour primer sealer. There is some really helpful 'how to' info on Rothko's site too.

If your on Facebook, search out TrickyAudio [url="https://www.facebook.com/trickyaudio?fref=ts"]https://www.facebook.com/trickyaudio?fref=ts[/url] Guy is the UK registered builder for the Greenboy US Fearless range :-)

Hmm I'd check the specs. The original Triads were a 15", a 10" and a horn with the crossover points fixed at 100Hz and 5kHz. If its really a 15, a 12 & and an 8 then someones been messing about with what SWR intended. If its stock and fully working then its more than a bargain and I'd grab it with both hands.

I used to use two 4x10's because my amp head 'prefers' a 4 ohm load. As has already been said the volume control does exactly that! I used to get told to turn down by our regular sound guy as his eyes told him I must have been loud. During one sound check I turned the volume on bass off and played along, he still asked me to turn down until I explained that I was off and what he was hearing was the 100w Marshall 4x12 equipped guitard stood next to me. Now I use a 6x10 cab and it ticks all the boxes i.e. 4 ohm load, single cab, loud enough for the biggest stages, looks 'right' against two 4x12 equipped guitards.

I had a candy apple red one with the gold hardware. Was a lovely bass and covered the active sound perfectly (could sound like flea's modulus with a bit of careful eq'ing). I loved the neck but found it to be a little to 'flexible' for my tastes, requiring frequent setups to keep the action where I liked it. Great bass all the same and your shoulder will love you for buying it.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1414252151' post='2587547'] If you got time to look down at the meters, you weren't going fast enough! [/quote] Oh I normally was, just not in the same direction as my bike :-)

Yep, speakon's come in two flavours: 2 gang and 4 gang. 'Standard' speakon cables are 2 gang wired +1/+1 -1/-1 but there are variants for bridging power amps and the like. Worth checking that both ends of the speakon lead are wired the same way. Oh and if its a GK amp and a GK cable, its probably a four gang wired differently for their bi-amping setup.

Do what we used to do to 2-stroke racing motorcycles, block off the Rev counter either side of the power band. As long as you could see the needle, everything was fine :-)

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1410360653' post='2548548'] So last night I finally got around to dealing with the tight bridge. I sanded off all the horrible black coating which revealed that the bridge itself is a rather rough and ready affair with lots of high and low spots covered in that thick black goo of a paint. I also noticed that the screw posts are only set into the bass of the bridge by about 1/4" and that mine are starting to 'break' out the wood at the top of the holes due to string pressure. Anyway, after reassembly and re-tuning, I didn't notice any improvement in the bass side response, with the E string in particular still sounding a little weedy by comparison to the D & G. So today I've done a little further investigation and by a process of elimination, I've managed to confirm that the bass side transducer is producing no output. To prove this, I swapped the transducer wires on the preamp board in various combinations which showed that both 'sides' of the preamp board are functioning correctly, but that the bass side transducer is kaput. I've fired an email off to my local Stagg dealer but in the meantime, does anyone know whether replacement transducers are available from Stagg? [/quote] Has anybody got a direct contact for Stagg please? My emails to my local Stagg dealer regarding the dead piezo are falling on deaf ears. Also, does anybody know of an alternative to the standard Stagg piezo wires?

The 21012 is indeed a great cab capable of filling even a large room with bass. I miss mine and on reflection should have kept it and got rid of the Golly instead (strong words indeed from an SWR fan boi). Happy new old cab day

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1410934336' post='2554719'] Very impressed with your patience on this! It's going to look great to boot [/quote] Cheers for your kind words. I'm actually enjoying the gestation period, slowing down allows you to think through every step thoroughly which hopefully results in fewer mistakes

I must have been lucky then, because I've used my local B&Q to cut sheet timber down a few times now and found their cuts to be true and square and easily as good as I can manage with a sled like the one Bill mentions.

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1410608594' post='2551214'] Class... love 'Out Of the Wilderness'. Was there many in? [/quote] Yeah quite a good turnout for a Thursday night, I'd say about 3/4 full?

[quote name='Ramirez' timestamp='1410602745' post='2551124'] Cool. Is that the Cluny 2 (the tiny venue) or the main one? Played the small one on tour back in April, great place. And awesome hot dogs. [/quote] No this was the moderately larger Cluny 1

It could have been either graffiti yellow or TV yellow as I think both of those were available to order

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1410455111' post='2549649'] Here's more pics. I swear these things are works of art. The build quality is ridiculously good. [/quote] Build quality is ridiculously good eh? Phah those screw heads aren't even lined up #OCD

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1410456509' post='2549681'] Aha... I just sussed who the dep is with! You'll need a lie down after the first 3 songs mate and you're ear plugs better be industry strength! [/quote] Oh no, is he 'crashing tonight?

[quote name='Magic Matt' timestamp='1410539620' post='2550590'] I can't afford to buy a router and a table saw... how would I radius the edges without a router!? Everything is going to be done with hand tools, bar some stuff with a cordless jigsaw and a cordless drill/driver. Will there really be no reinforcement needed if being assembled by a slightly cack-handed monkey? [/quote] Lots of places like B&Q offer a panel cutting service (first x cuts free etc) which can make buying from them a lot more cost effective. Turn up with the cutting list from Bill's plans and they'll cut your sheet down into the required pieces that will be square cut with square edges. This should make assembly a lot simpler and result in nice tight joints. As for radius'ing the edges, you can do it using a batten, your jigsaw and some sandpaper. Use the jigsaw on the angle (most have adjustable bed plates) to chew off the meat of the corner (say 60 degrees from each side) then smooth the radius with a sanding block and sandpaper. Use a baton either clamped or screwed to the cabinet to keep the jigsaw running in a straight parallel line with the edge you are trimming.

Poly is 'generally' thicker and harder wearing than nitro. Purists like nitro finishes because they are thinner and therefore are supposed to allow the wood to resonate more than poly and also because this was the finish used on those classic 50's & 60's instruments. Personally, I prefer nitro on natural bodies as you don't get that 'G Plan furniture' type appearance that Fender seemed to go for with thick clear poly on their mid-seventies guitars and basses. But, poly can be applied thinly too, so I guess its down to personal taste.

Quick phone photo of [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,] [/font][/color][color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,] [/font][/color][font=Helvetica, Arial, lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif][color=#141823]Oliver McKiernan rocking out with the Pete Molinari Band at the Cluny in Newcastle last night. Simms Watt PA100 into H&H 4x12, using what looked to me like a 70's TV era precision and the best 'wing commander' moustache (although I don't believe the moustache had any effect on Oliver's tone ) Big phat warm sound that suited the band perfectly. No class D or neodymium required....... [/color][/font] [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1190_zps4862dc3d.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1190_zps4862dc3d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='Magic Matt' timestamp='1410522586' post='2550317'] Surely it would have to be an exceptionally bad piece of ply to have voids so large that loose material inside actually rattles and can be heard? [/quote] Agreed! I've used an awful lot of plywood in my time in building, boat building and cabinet building and have never come across loose material inside the ply's. Considering the way plywood is made, I struggle to understand how this could happen?

Hi all, I'm spraying more guitars than ever at the moment (three on the go at the moment) so I've been thinking of upgrading from rattle cans to some more 'pro' spray equipment. I've come across this HVLP kit from Rothko and Frost which is seductively inexpensive and I'm wondering if anybody has any experience of using this type of kit for spraying guitars? [url="http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/earlex-hv1900-hvlp-paint-spray-kit-400-watt/"]http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/earlex-hv1900-hvlp-paint-spray-kit-400-watt/[/url]

So one week on from applying the black cellulose so its time to take the masking off to make sure that the edge of the black paint fully cures before I flat it and get on with the staining process. Not much to see but here's an update photo anyway [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1188_zps6b7e16ef.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1188_zps6b7e16ef.jpg[/IMG][/URL]