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Everything posted by JPJ
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I'd go for a good construction grade exterior plywood. This comes in various grades and the better ones are almost void less without the expense. Honestly, I don't think that void less ply makes that much of a difference, a bit like gold plated jack plugs
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[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1409742987' post='2542813'] Probably a silly question, but how much shock protection do racks provide? If the amp is bolted directly onto the rigid box with no cushioning, how does it protect against impacts? [/quote] It will protect the amp from 'mechanical damage' of direct impacts with other objects in the back of the van/car etc but not from the shock of the impact. You can however, get shock mounted racks where the rack inner is isolated from the rack outer either by a layer of foam or by rubber suspension mounts. Mine has the isolating foam like this [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/006-3.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/006-3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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Looking at this again there is something quite Pedulla about that body shape (in a good way) :-)
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Wow looking good! Thats some stunning wood you've got there. FWIW, I'd go with a proper bridge too, I find those monorails detract something from the sound imho.
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[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1409849636' post='2543962'] Doh! I so want to see this in its finished glory. [/quote] So do I But, between the day job, other peoples guitars and a desire not to mess it up this time, I'm prepared to take my time and get it right first time'ish
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So the primer has gone off enough to allow it to be flatted back so today I flatted it and removed the masking to allow me to feather the edge of the primer on to the front. [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1175_zps86a7e503.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1175_zps86a7e503.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I then masked the front again, with the line of the masking tape being about 4mm inside the line of the primer. I did this because when I flat the edge of the black paint I don't want to sand through and show grey primer, so hopefully by very carefully sanding the black I'll be able to loose the edge without showing through to the primer (fingers crossed). I then got on and sprayed three good coats of gloss ebony black nitro to the edges, back and sides. [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1177_zps762057a9.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1177_zps762057a9.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thats not a great photo but I'm really pleased with the depth of image in the black and the relative smoothness of the top surface of the paint which will hopefully mean only a light sand with 1500 to flat it back. Now its a waiting game. I intend leaving the black at least a week before I flat it out and get on with staining the front.
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Racks are the only way to protect your gear from the inevitable car/van/road rash. If you value your equipment and need to be able to rely on it firing up first time every time, then they really are the only way to go. My amp is housed in a substantial 4U shock case which used to be a complete PITA to move until I modified it with an extra top handle and some corner casters procured from those lovely people at Swanflight cases. Probably the best £15 I've spent in ages. [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1169_zpsd6fcce37.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1169_zpsd6fcce37.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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So, we are into the finishing stage. After lots of sanding I discovered that the join between the two halves of the maple cap wasn't as tight as it might have been. This presented a bit of a quandary as to what to do, so in the end, I decided to open the gap up to a consistent 1mm along its length and then fill it with black grain filler like this. [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1161_zpsa040b94c.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1161_zpsa040b94c.jpg[/IMG][/URL] picture taken mid sanding :-) Then, progress was halted by a combination of the day job and painting two telecaster bodies for a friend, until today, when I masked the front up and sprayed the primer onto the back and sides. Learning from previous, I intend having the black finish of the back and sides wrap over the radius of the top, and then I will (hopefully) be staining the top black, before sanding back and finally finishing with a translucent british racing green nitro. [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1173_zps82ac28df.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1173_zps82ac28df.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1174_zpse7a54733.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1174_zpse7a54733.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Next step will be to flat the primer and apply the black paint. As I think I said before, I'm in no hurry to finish this and will be taking my time to get the finish as good as I possibly can within the limitations of my facilities (shed) and application method (rattle cans).
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SOLD - SOLD - SWR MM Preamp, QSC Power Amp- SOLD - SOLD
JPJ replied to JPJ's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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Hmmm this could be a very interesting experiment Personally, I'm still in the 'jury's out' camp when it comes to whether the wood alone is the source of either 'growl' or 'brightness' etc. Most basses made today will be from two or more pieces of wood glued together, so in theory, the glue is also 'contributing' to the overall sound. Warwick basses, famed for their growl use wenge but the also use a separate bridge and tailpiece, active electronics and very often, the growlier ones are neck thru's. Contrast that with a typical F type with the BBOT bridge, passive pickups and bolt on necks and there are a lot of variables between the string and the amp to affect the 'sound'. I accept that neck thru's are a very different beast to bolt-on's and, personally, I prefer bolt-on's as the amount of detail you hear with a neck thru shows up my sloppy playing After saying all of that, I would just go with a piece of timber that is the same as the rest of the body and make a structural repair. I can't imagine that the amount of wood that you are adding versus the amount of wood remaining from the original body would be sufficient to make a noticeable change to the sound of the bass.
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Trace Elliot 712 SMC GP7 extension cab question.
JPJ replied to bassituation's topic in Repairs and Technical
Somebody may have changed the speaker (from 8 ohm to 4ohm) to get the full output without an extension cab and if they did, they've also gone on to do a cracking mod to the extension speaker socket to ensure you can't plug in an extension cab and inadvertently present too low a speaker load to the amp. -
SOLD - SOLD - SWR MM Preamp, QSC Power Amp- SOLD - SOLD
JPJ replied to JPJ's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1409309783' post='2538511'] Think this may well have been mine at some point. If all other buyers fall through bear me in mind Nik, wouldn`t mind this one at all. [/quote] I don't think so Lozz, I know the original owner who bought it new from Jorg and I was the second owner before I sold it on to Nik. It is one hell of a cab though, and if I had the space and money, I'd be joining the queue to own it again.
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Finishing Question - Nitrocellulose and Cellulose paints
JPJ replied to JPJ's topic in Repairs and Technical
Cheers for that, turns out your correct I emailed Rothko and Frost this morning via their website and received a reply in 10 minutes confirming that all is ok in terms of shooting nitrocellulose over cellulose. After sending my question, I also found some really useful information on their website regarding spraying, finishing and polishing here [url="http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/wood-finishes/"]http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/wood-finishes/[/url] -
Finishing Question - Nitrocellulose and Cellulose paints
JPJ posted a topic in Repairs and Technical
I think I may have hit on a problem with my latest self-build. I intended spraying the back and sides of the body using a black cellulose paint and then doing the maple top using a combination of stain and tinted nitro-cellulose lacquer. However, I've just remembered that the two are not really compatible are they? I'm sure I've read somewhere that you can spray one over the other but I can't remember which way round is ok and which way is a non-starter. So is it cellulose over nitrocellulose or the other way? -
SOLD - SOLD - SWR MM Preamp, QSC Power Amp- SOLD - SOLD
JPJ posted a topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
For Sale only - No trades thanks I recently assembled this rig comprising of an SWR Marcus Miller Preamp coupled to a QSC PLX1602 power amp giving a massive 1600w bridge mono into a 4 ohm load. I intended replacing my SWR SM1500 with this rig, but having had a chance to A/B the two rigs on a couple of gigs I've decided to stick with the SM1500 and I can't afford to have two pro level rigs sitting around. The preamp offers two inputs switchable from the front panel, with pad, mute, gain, and SWR's aural enhancer circuit. The tone controls comprise a tone stack defeat switch, bass, low mid, mid, high mid, and high tone controls with the low, mid and high mid being semi-parametric on dual concentric pots. The preamp also includes a fully adjustable compressor featuring threshold, ratio, attack and release controls along with a switch to defeat the compressor and another to place the compressor either before or after the EQ section. Front panel controls are completed by an effects blend control for the foot switchable effects loop, and a solo boost and bass intensifier circuit both of which are again foot switchable. On the back panel, there is a preamp out on both XLR and jack sockets with ground lift switch, a DI out again on both XLR and jack sockets, along with a ground lift switch, a 180 degree phase switch, a DI level control, and a switch giving either direct, post compression or post compression/eq DI signal. The back panel is completed with jack sockets for the supplied four button foot switch, a tuner out, a parallel input, and the effects loop send and return. There is a great series of youtube videos of Marcus Miller demonstrating the features of this preamp Not too much to say about the power amp other than it is a professional power amp. There are dip switches on the back panel allowing you to configure how the amp functions including paralleled inputs, stereo or bridge mono, a low pass filter on/off along with a switch to select either 30 or 50Hz for the filter. Inputs are on XLR's and jacks and outputs are on Speakon's or binding posts. Oh and its loud and its powerful. I will include the original four button foot switch and original SWR foot switch cable, the short XLR cable linking the preamp to the power amp, the two mains leads and a four pole speakon cable to access the bridge mono mode of the power amp, along with a photocopy of the SWR manual and the original QSC manual. I would prefer to sell as a complete rig rather than separate. Racked up in the included Boschma flight case (almost brand new) the rig weighs about 22kg so again, I'd prefer collection from just north of Newcastle upon Tyne but I am willing to ship at the buyers risk and expense. I will also include the original four button foot switch and original SWR foot switch cable, the short XLR cable linking the preamp to the power amp, the two mains leads and a four pole speakon cable to access the bridge mono mode of the power amp. I also have this advertised locally. Any questions please ask. [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1163_zps0794f760.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1164_zpsdd3cddcc.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1165_zps8deb2771.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1166_zps004d8ddc.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1168_zps008ea348.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1167_zps63fef6cf.jpg.html"][/url] -
[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1408663270' post='2532423'] An excellent read; thanks for sharing. [/quote] Fascinating stuff!
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the PJB combos. The briefcase is 100w, 2 x5" and will hold its own against a quiet drummer. Add DI support through the PA and you've got a viable small combo solution. I've used mine in rehearsals and believe me, we are not a quiet band!
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I'm such a geek, I find threads like this one fascinating. At the end of the day a loudspeaker is simply a piston device designed to move a volume of air. The fascinating bit for me is the interconnection/reaction between the loudspeaker, its enclosure and the surrounding environment. I'd love the chance to play my bass through my amp (known variables) through a variety of speaker sizes, each housed in a box optimised for: a) the chosen speaker; amplifying bass guitar, in one of those acoustic chambers
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Warmoth Flame Maple jazz body - Sanded back black dye finish
JPJ replied to Dolando's topic in Build Diaries
Ooh matron, tissues quick! What a lovely piece of work, I'm loving that top! Congrats on a stunning looking bass. -
So what am I 'hearing' because in a blind test I swear I could tell the difference between a 10", 12" and a 15" speaker
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What a looker! All that natural wood and black hardware, it just looks like a timeless classic already. Congratulations on a lovely piece of low end hardware.
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[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1407703929' post='2523239'] I'm just going through my emails to gather all my pics [/quote] Tease!
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Warmoth Flame Maple jazz body - Sanded back black dye finish
JPJ replied to Dolando's topic in Build Diaries
That's a shame about the RPC, its not something I've tried (yet) but I know some people get great results others less so. I'm still perfecting my rattle can spray techniques and I'm getting pretty close to a pro finish so I think I'll stick with this method. One thing, I always check with the supplier to make sure that all the elements of my finishes work together i.e. stains, sealers, paints and lacquers. There is a lot of contradictory mythology on the internet about what works and doesn't work so its best to check first. Having said all that, I am liking that sanded black finish and I recon it will look lush once its glossed. By way of inspiration, here's a similar finish done by a local(ish) professional luthier. -
Today's update: Wood Butchery Complete. So today I've made a template and routed out a shallow recess for the Badass bridge. Why? Well the Badass was 'hanging' over the forearm chamfer a bit more than I felt comfortable with so, out with the trusty router. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1128_zpsda94a8aa.jpg[/IMG] Once I was happy with that I moved on to completing the opening for the jack socket. I'm going with a Neutrik locking socket so I created a little cutout to recess the socket baseplate into and finished off the inside of the opening in the control cavity. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1131_zps9477b1dd.jpg[/IMG] I then marked out and drilled and countersunk for the neck bolts and ferrules, which was a bit of a chew on as I didn't have a 12mm drill bit. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1129_zps17c801fd.jpg[/IMG] Finally, I drilled the hole from the pickup rout to the control cavity, and the battery box to the control cavity and also made a control cavity cover from some BWB plastic I bought for this purpose back in 2011. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1130_zps97ee1579.jpg[/IMG] Then I gave the whole body the first finish sanding to 240 grit, making sure that all the curves and edge radius's were free from any flat spots or edges. That is all the woodwork complete. Next up will be sanding through the grades, grain filling the tulip wood, staining the maple, and then painting the tulip wood and lacquering the maple. None of those steps are very photogenic, so I guess the next update will either be once the finish is on, or when I cock the finish up and throw the whole thing in the scrap bin