JPJ

Still loving my stagg but struggling with the 'quiet' E string. I suspect that this is partly caused by the foam I inserted under the bridge feet to reduce unwanted handling noise, but when installing this, I also noticed that the bridge was a very tight fit in the body. Do you think 'easing' the bridge to reduce the tightness will improve the E string volume? I've tried adjusting the trim pots on the circuit board but this just increased the background noise when set too high and still didn't improve the E string volume by comparison to the the A, D & G. I'm also thinking of carving a new bridge out of some offcuts of swamp ash I have around from a body build. Any thoughts on whether this would be a good or bad idea?

That sir is a thing of beauty! I have recently acquired a Uke and I'm loving playing it. Incidentally, playing the Uke has had a real positive effect on my bass playing

Wow that flamed ash has some figure doesn't it? Looking great Kees, I bet you can't wait to get your hands on it now?

Wow, simply stunning! Something completely different and left field. Not to everyones taste I'm sure, but its nice to see some originality. Oh and when glueing a top on, you can never have too much glue :-)

Add my name to the Bass Doc appreciation society. Howard took my latest purchase and fitted a new nut, dressed the frets and gave it a good old setup to boot. Amazing result, and great craic too! Top man.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1375776060' post='2165307'] When the volume winds up, I'll use plugs but I also think it a tad ignorant for the band to HAVE to use plugs when the unsuspecting audience doesn't. [/quote] Most gigs I'm standing next to or in front of a Marshall 100w half stack with an array of cymbals at ear height immediately to my left. That contributes to a local high volume environment. Out front, the level can be 10db or more lower (I've checked!) and certainly easier on the ears. I wear ACS Pro-17's because I value what remains of my hearing. If the audience values their's, they'll do the same (we are a rock band, what do the expect - bedroom levels?).

A good friend of mine has just started a business doing custom etched and patina'd scratch plates similar to Trussart's and the like. Give Chris a shout at [url="https://www.facebook.com/CustomCooletch?fref=ts"]https://www.facebook.com/CustomCooletch?fref=ts[/url] and tell him Kev sent ya

My solution would be one of the bar handles recessed into the top of the cab. As all the Barefaced cabs are so light and a one- handed lift, one handle recessed into the top would seem to make sense to me as it doesn't interfere with the airflow in the slot port. PS Alex, if you decide to adopt this idea, there is no design fee from me, but a donation of a 'big one' will be gratefully accepted ;-)

Couple of sets winging there way to you next week. Good on you sir!

Just completed a deal with Dave involving his Overwater Perception and my Stingray 5. The deal was agreed back in May this year, but due to my work commitments we only got a chance to meet up and exchange basses today (1st August). Dave's a top gent and credit to our forum - thanks again for being so patient Dave

Cheers gents, I'm planning on tidying up the wiring in my Schroeder 21012 which is 1100w at 8 ohms but as its wired as a series pair of 10's in parallel with the 12 I guess 13amp cable will be fine :-)

Kees, I'll be watching this build with great interest. I've always liked the original series shape but have never been too keen on the headstock shape. Pure genius to mate the original body with the progress headstock!

As the title says, what is the best wire gauge and type for rewiring speaker cabinets. In the past, I've been told just to use 13 amp electrical cable but is this really the best or is there something better?

Looks really cool as is, but rather than pin striping, I'd consider a black pearloid plate

As a committed Overwater strings user, I'd wait for the Overwaters

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1373999304' post='2144128'] White Sound were based in Sunderland, I think...? [/quote] They also had a place in the Handyside Arcade for a while in the late seventies/early eighties. I remember when it closed there was one massive old 4x12 left behind (thinking back, it could have been a 4x15 by the size of it) in the empty shop. Often wonder what became of it....

As some on here will know, I own what is probably the heaviest amp known to man but despite my advancing years and failing back, I cannot find anything lighter that provides the sheer depth of this thing - my beloved SWR SM1500. However, on the last couple of gigs, I've noticed that the mid range seems to ebb and flow over the course of the gig. To explain, I start off with a nice bit of mid grind in the tone and at certain times this seems, to me at least, to disappear to be replaced by a lot more bottom end. I've emailed SWR's helpful customer services (3 times, no reply) so I'm putting it out to you guys for your help and guidance. Could this be a sign that the pre amp valve is reaching the end of its natural life? Back in the days of my slightly lighter SWR750X I upgraded the stock GT12AX7 valve to an EH5751on the advice of a Basschat user who published a really in depth comparison of preamp valves on here (sorry I cant remember who it was ). The change on that occasion gave me a bit more mid-dirt (which I liked). Do you think its worth doing the same thing with the SM1500 or should I just replace like-for-like? Help, advice and guidance will be greatly received

As some on here will know, I own what is probably the heaviest amp known to man but despite my advancing years and failing back, I cannot find anything lighter that provides the sheer depth of this thing - my beloved SWR SM1500. However, on the last couple of gigs, I've noticed that the mid range seems to ebb and flow over the course of the gig. To explain, I start off with a nice bit of mid grind in the tone and at certain times this seems, to me at least, to disappear to be replaced by a lot more bottom end. I've emailed SWR's helpful customer services (3 times, no reply) so I'm putting it out to you guys for your help and guidance. Could this be a sign that the pre amp valve is reaching the end of its natural life? Back in the days of my slightly lighter SWR750X I upgraded the stock GT12AX7 valve to an EH5751on the advice of a Basschat user who published a really in depth comparison of preamp valves on here (sorry I cant remember who it was ). The change on that occasion gave me a bit more mid-dirt (which I liked). Do you think its worth doing the same thing with the SM1500 or should I just replace like-for-like? Help, advice and guidance will be greatly received