bertbass

It's always a buyers market when I've got no money.

Do you mean the braided wires? If the braided wires have come adrift of the very fine single copper wires inside the cone, then yes you can fix it. Done it myself a few times. I am assuming that the terminal end of braided wires are floating around on a broken bit of brown stuff that should be fixed to a spoke of the speaker. If this is the case it would be best to fix the actual speaker terminals to a bit of plastic or something and re-attach it to the speaker chassis. Hot melt glue may be your friend here or a nut and bolt or pop rivet. Using a small craft knife, scratch away at the black stuff covering the end of the seriously thin wires inside the cone that attach to the braided wires. When the thin wires are exposed, push the braided wires back through the holes in the cone and solder to the thin wires. There may be some black stuff on the ends of the braided wires as well and this will need to be scraped off. Once you've soldered the wires together, check that the speaker works and fill the holes in the cone to secure the braiding and cover any exposed seriously thin wire as well so that it doesn't move around and break again. A magnifying glass and a strong light is very helpful in your quest. I hope this helps. Good luck. PS I've fixed microphones capsules with broken voice coil wires in the same way. The things you have to do when you're poor!

[size=4]If the speaker still works, put a pp3 across the terminals to test it first, then perhaps a bit of sealing wax or something similar might just repair it, if not you could try here, [color=#000000][font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]http://www.audioloudspeakers.co.uk/boultons.shtml as an other option.[/font][/color][/size]

Either way is still parallel.

This is quite interesting as well. http://www.guitarplayer.com/article/smooth-your-sonic-ride/5505

You won't be happy until you do what your heart says.

Others may disagree, but in my opinion, valve amps have a sweet spot where the volume is just right for the valves to distort nicely, but not too much, the output transformer to saturate, but not too much and where the speakers distort, but again, not too much and that sound just can't be beaten. Unfortunately, when you have to turn down it all goes and it becomes a bit of a struggle to play because 'the sound' is just not there. I've found that adding a Behringer BD121 before the amp can compensate for the lower volume. It will never be as good as that WOW moment but it can come a close second and at a little over £20, is a cheap alternative to buying a new amp and you still have that sound when you can play loud enough.

Most agents just put a photo and a bio on their web site and wait for the phone to ring.

Danelectros come with Aluminium nuts as standard.

Had one of these and it broke pretty quickly. Used the case to build my own power supply into and it works a treat now.

Oh, I get it. Just a normal damped note but with a new name. Thanks.

OK, I'll be the one to ask the obvious question. What's a ghost note?

Or this? http://www.dv247.com/pa-systems-and-live-sound/studiomaster-runabout-200w-portable-pa-system--75426

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]In all your playing days what cabs really stand out?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The best sound I've ever had was through four 4x12 Sound City cabs driven by 2 Marshall super bass 100s. The Marshalls were just ticking over but the sound was immense. Full, clear, loads of bottom and I could hear it where ever I went on stage. Not overpowering, just there. It wouldn't be practical to carry that many cabs and heads now but I do regret getting rid of them. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I also had a pretty amazing sound with 4 Vox Foundation cabs, four 1x18s, driven by 100w valve heads. Again impractical, but I do miss them.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]2 Vox T60 cabs, 15s and 12s, with a Roost 100w valve head sounded pretty good too. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I wonder at times if all the advances manufacturers are making are sometimes not a backward step when it comes to sound.[/font][/color]

Great clip. Strange how the song speeds up as soon as the drums come in. I though it was just us.

I've just bought plans from, http://www.johnanthonyguitars.com. They're available either directly or via ebay and are full size. You could cut out the various bits, glue them to whatever wood takes your fancy and make your own templates. I think they're not bad value at £9.99 a plan and £3.20 total postage. I tried the Australian plans but they don't post to the UK and they're a tad expensive in my opinion.

As Antlokyer said, Jack Bruce plays sitting and if it's good enough for him it's good enough for you.

In the 60s, the Verithins would have come with tape wound strings, sorry, flats as standard. Infact, they were the only strings you could buy. If I were you, I'd measure the string length and e-mail Rotosound or the string manufacturer of your choice and find out what strings they make that could fit your bass. Good luck with finding the right strings.

I just love Blowing Free.

The fuse in the plug is 13 amps, the ring main that it's connected too is 32 amps. Any problems use another socket as well.

Have a look at the Yamaha range. Might well be what you're looking for.

Brilliant company with service second to none. I strongly recommend them.

You may think that you'll never be the best bass player in the world but you will be the best thebrig type bass player in the universe!

Araldite.