Turk

I'm careful with them all. My BB1000s was already a little road worn when I got it, and unusual for a BB, it had a weak neck. I couldn't fit anything heavier than light gauge strings to get a reasonably low action. I've had two graphite rods inserted in the neck, but never got round to having it re-finished properly after refitting the fretboard (tho only noticeable when at hands-on distance), so that is used for rehearsal and 'messy' gigs,,,.like a local 'Oktoberfest' themed gig last Saturday. My BB3000 is totally mint and only used for 'dry' gigs.

I've had three over the last thirty years, all MIJ. First one was stolen, the second I swapped for a Warwick Streamer (I have no idea why either !), and my current is a black one from the limited edition run of 40 units that Yamaha did for the Japanese market only. Bought here on BC from 'BB2000', back in August '09.

I had my my mate's [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]BG250-115 combo for a few gigs last year. Well impressed !! [/font][/color]

Simmer down to a panic ! Nothing quite like a fresh set of DR Low Riders. I was just wondering, simply as a matter of interest. I've used brake cleaner for 30 odd years, usually the Wurth brand. Not only as a brake cleaner, but also for general small area/component de-greasing. Incidentally, brake cleaner is non-corrosive, and does not affect rubber seals, hoses etc. What beaut would manufacture a corrosive product for use on metal brake discs, drums and calipers ?

Anyone ever tried brake cleaner spray to clean strings ? It's a powerful de-greaser, and leaves no residue. Any ideas as to why it may not be the brightest idea I've had today ?

Enjoyed that. Good job !

Now that's my idea of a realistic looking relic job. Not like some over the uber-roadworn jobbies I've seen.

[quote name='Thunderpaws' timestamp='1447262106' post='2906257'] Where are the pictures....how many times does one need asked?! [/quote] [b]YEAH !! [/b]

SNAP !!

I think 'Empathy' was chosen after Status requested folk send in suggestions for a name.

If the p/ups on the BB5000 are as powerfull as on the BB3000, then it'll eclipse the BB425. A couple of months back, whilst setting up the bass sound for a recording session at a local studio, the techie was surprised to learn my BB3000 wasn't active. He was well impressed. No disrespect to the BB425 mind, it's a cracking bass. It's just that the saying 'the BB3000 is like a Fender P on steroids' is not far off the mark.

[color=#333333][font=Georgia,]Just looked up the serial number of my BB3000. [/font][/color] [b]QJZ013F[/b][color=#333333][font=Georgia,] gives [b]'Custom Shop, Made in Japan[/b][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Georgia,][b], December 2004'[/b] . [/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Georgia,]Q=0 & J=4 (2004). [/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Georgia,]Z=December, [/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Georgia,]013 = Unit number, [/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Georgia,]F = Internal code.[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Georgia,]The code on my BB1000S (131468) is not as specific, and just gives 1984. [/font][/color]

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1421877340' post='2666210'] Wenge? Awesome! Certainly will be one of very few STD models that has a wenge neck, I did not even realise there was an overlap. Still looks like a Carolena Pine body though, although that could just as easily be another name for Basswood, I have never heard of the stuff other than on Warwick basses! [/quote] [size=4][font=tahoma,geneva,sans-serif][color=#252525]Found this on 'Basswood':[/color][/font][/size] [font=tahoma,geneva,sans-serif][size=4][color=#252525]Tilia is a ge[/color]nus[color=#252525] of about 30 [/color]species[color=#252525] of trees n[/color]ative[color=#252525] throughout most of the t[/color]emperate[color=#252525] Northern Hemisphere. [/color]Commonly[color=#252525] called[b] Lime trees [/b]in [/color][color=#252525]the British Isles. They are not closely related to the lime [/color][color=#252525]fruit. Other names include Linden [/color][color=#252525]and [b]Basswood[/b].[/color][/size][/font] [font=tahoma,geneva,sans-serif][size=4][color=#252525]Ease of working and good [/color]acoustic[color=#252525] properties also make it popular for [/color]electric guitar[color=#252525] and bass[/color][color=#252525] bodies and wind instruments [/color][color=#252525]such as recorders. In the percussion industry Tilia[/color][color=#252525] is sometimes used as a material for drum shells, both to enhance sound and aesthetics.[/color][/size][/font] [color=#252525][size=4][font=tahoma,geneva,sans-serif]Well ya live 'n' learn !![/font] [/size] [/color]

I have a '99 Streamer Std, with a Basswood body and Wenge neck. Fitted a Badass II bridge and gave the light natural finished body a sanding and stained to match the neck. Quite a light body, so the resulting neck dive was cured with a suede strap.

Try your local 'Maplins', or similar electronics specialist.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfJ102A73Ec

'Antique green' chair....'Autumn green' Warwick.

[quote name='2elliot' timestamp='1413564630' post='2579696'] [b][u]Small world, I had a rattle on that bass too.[/u][/b] I didn't buy it but did eventually end with a Thumb NT4 which I still own. Sounds great, looks great, plays great... Every one should try a Thumb. [/quote] I'm trying to remember when it was. I'm thinking maybe '88 - '89. Any idea ?

Only one I've played was for sale many moons ago in of the smaller shops in Denmark Street, London. A kind of pink colour. Previous owner was some bloke called Cass Lewis.

Tidy !! (or nicely un-tidy ! [size=4] )[/size]

I have two MIJ's. A BB3000 and a BB1000s, fitted with Badass II's and DR Lo-Riders. Both are versatile basses. The 3000 has some serious 'thump'. The 1000s (reverse-P) still packs a punch, but I find it better for that 'older' sound.

[size=4] [/size]

Top job !!

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1409432468' post='2539726'] Crying out for a white refin [/quote] Vintage White, like on the BB2024.

Thanks for the input. No 'Send/Return' sockets, and speaker cables already checked. The 'anti-thump' relay sticking makes sense. Pretty sure I've not heard a 'click' when it fails to start, and when a second attempt is needed, as soon as I hear the click I know it's good to go. Cheers.