Walker

Thanks Mark, yes, I did read it but didn't understand the bit about the paper. Would that be on the 'new' input jack or the front one? What is the paper doing?

Thanks for the info. I've been doing a bit of research, as I'm trying to understand this a bit better, is it this?: "[i]You create a dummy jack by shorting the center conductor and shield together.[/i]" Also, and sorry for the ignorance, I've had a look online at sheilded cable and it seems to have core wire(s) and a metalic sheath. Does the sheath get soldered too? Thanks again for the advice.

Thanks for your comments. Everything else on my rack has rear inputs and I feed my signal to my pre' from wireless. I thought it would be a simple and clean way as I have zero space to pass a cable through. And I have the parts in my parts box. So if I did as my diagram and had a dummy jack in the front, it would work OK?

[b]Ampeg - Adding a temp' rear input[/b] I want to add a rear input to my Ampeg SVP Pro, but without butchering it. If I tack two wires (7/0.2), to the original input socket, and run them as shown in my diagram to a new socket that I'll hot melt onto the side or back - will that cause any problems? Will the 7/0.2 wire be OK or should I use something else? Will it add noise or cause interfence? Cheers! Chris

Good evening. OK, I've decided to do Mk1 of this box with sockets, so I can move it around a bit, then one it's a permanent install, I'll run cable as David suggested. The project box is drilled, everything is ready to go together (see pic). I have a 2 pole 6 way switch. I'm not doing the tuner bit of David's diagram, so I'll just kill the master volume before switching or changing instruments. [b]Couple of questions:[/b] 1. I've redrawn the diagram so I can get it right in my head - is the diagram correct? 2. Can I join up all the earth wires as I have shown in my diagram or do I need a seperate wire from each point to the earth screw in my project box? I'm thoroughly enjoying this and learning loads, so thanks again, especially tov David and Bremen. I've got all the parts ready in case I have thumps or ground hum, apart from a couple of 0.1 microfarad caps as Maplin didn't have any in stock. Cheers Chris

Big bag of bits arrived today, the project is underway. Thanks to all for your help.

My first shuttle arrived from Fender with the switch in the wrong position... plugged it in... pop. I didnt check. They changed it immediately. A batch problem apparently. Sorry, that doesn't help OP.

Thanks thinman, huge help. I'll get this all set up and sorted over the weekend ready for rehearsal on monday. Hopefully the guys will appreciate the effort!

Thanks David and thanks Bremen. I assume that you are both some sort of professional electrical engineers? I'll put up a pic once this is built. Cheers again, really appreciated. Chris

Thanks David, So you are suggesting that I take cables out of the box with plugs on the end rather than have sockets in the box? Would you use zip ties around the cables inside the box for strain relief? I think I'll understand the switch once I get my hands on one! I have tools, so the metal box attached to the panel should be fine. Looking forward to getting started. Thanks again for your help on this.

[b]Update - the EQ and left panning worked a treat - thanks all![/b] [b]But...[/b] For the time being, until we get a new poweramp, we've been running the L+R desk outputs (+4db) into 7 and 8 on the little Yammy mixer/amp pictured below. Everything is set flat and all verb and compression is off. We set the channel level on this little amp to 3 oclock and the master to max and control FOH volume with the master slider on the desk. If I inputted the desk into channel 3 or 4 on the amp instead (via the XLR out of the EQ), do I set the input switch to line level or mic level? We tried both last night and mic gave loads more volume (the mic pre's boosting the signal I assume) but would this blow something as it's a +4db signal going into it?

Crikey, I can actually follow this! Brilliant job, thank you very much indeed. When you talk about screened cable, doesnt that have 3 cores? Also, what gauge cable should I use for the internal stuff? I'm planning on have the box in the back of my rack and the two switches mounted on a panel on the front for quick access when playing. That shouldn't be aproblem should it? Thanks again, this is perfect!

Ah, I like the sound of that! What with and how much? Does it change the tone much (not that I'll care as long as we can tame it!)

Enough about our banjo player!!! He has some sort of pup and DI's into the desk. I've read that mic'ing may be better though. Looks like banjos are grief whatever way you go.

Thanks very much David, will that diagram be with a mute switch or [i]'a bunch of caps and bleeder resistors'[/i]? I'm happy to go the more complicated route for the learning experience, but whatever is easiest and quickest for you. I really appreciate this - thank you everyone.

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1352207529' post='1860060'] Yeah, I'd do as Mr Mottlefeeder suggests. You could guard against thumps with a bunch of caps and bleeder resistors; I could draw you a diagram but if you want to keep it simple then yes a mute switch might be easier. [/quote] I would prefer to do it this way to be honest, as I'm trying to learn basic electronics with my eldest son, so if you did find time to do a quick drawing for me, that would be appreciated. As long as you don't mind me asking a few questions! At least I can then read up about the components and find out why the are stopping the thumps. Many thanks bremen.

[quote name='zero9' timestamp='1352206069' post='1860008'] Why not get a 4-channel mini mixer? [/quote] Another great idea I hadn't considered. Thank you. May well go down that route. The thing is, now it's getting cold and dark, my soldering iron keeps me warm! I fancy the project and my kids like to watch!

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' timestamp='1352205339' post='1859988'] Assuming that you change the instrument connected you your wireless transmitter, and you want to switch the receiver to feed the correct preamp for that instrument, I think you only need one switch - a rotary switch with three positions (four if you want a 'mute' position), and two poles, one for the preamp inputs and one for the preamp outputs. I would also aviod the use of a patch panel - it will cost you for the plugs and sockets, and give you more places where you could get a faulty contact. A metal box containing the switch, connected to 8 cables which end in jack plugs, would be cheaper and more robust. David [/quote] How much do you want paying for a wiring diagram!!! Seriously, this sounds great and thanks for the idea (you and paul 5) about the mute switch too - I would never had thought of that until I got that first big 'thump'!

One source - my wireless: that then goes into one of 3 preamps. Have I seriously overcomplicated this!??

[b]Multi preamp switch box project - wiring help![/b] I would like to have a quick and simple way to switch between 3 preamps that all go into the same power amp. I don't want a footswitch, as I'll be switching between songs (one for blues harp, one for bass and another for guitar), so I was thinking about rotary chickenhead knobs mounted on a panel on my rack. Before I research the switches, wiring diagram and hardware I'll need for the project, looking at the diagram below, is this the best way to do it? Two 4 way patch panels, each with a rotary knob. The first panel has the 3 inputs into the preamps, the second panel takes the outputs from the preamp into a single poweramp. Thanks very much! Chris

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1352131004' post='1859111'] yep, sorted. If you like the sound then long term you might be better off with just a power amp, rather than the shuttle [/quote] True, very true. But always nice to have a back-up incase the Ampeg fancies a break!

Thanks (again!) bremen.

FX is mainly for chorus and a bit of auto wah or filter. So that's normally after the pre I think? So what you are saying is... guitar into Ampeg pre > FX > Genz Benz power stage (via the FX return). Would that be the same as putting the FX into the loop if I wasnt using a seperate pre?