Immo

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1388937142' post='2327804'] On the theme of "Signature basses that don't exist that should do" , , what about signature basses that [i]do[/i] exist that shouldn't? [/quote] All those sigs that look and sound just like a widely manufactured basses. I understand (and admire) a sig that has major custom features like reverse headstock and no pickguard and control plate on Dusty Hill's Fender bass, but a signature that's just a CAD P-Bass with Badass bridge and SD pickup or just a body decal/custom pattern on scratchplate is silly - you pay more for a signature on a headstock.

Beautiful neck & neat body grain, congrats!

Klaus Flouride's legendary JB. Package should include strap, DK car sticker and a small jar of blood to stain the pickguard.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1388667629' post='2324509'] [size=3][b][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=findpost&pid=2322129"][/url]BetaFunk, on 30 December 2013 - 10:10 PM, said:[/b][/size] [size=3]All the above apart from the neck. Mine had the thickest neck i've ever seen on a bass. It was not only chunky in width but also in depth. A strange beast indeed.[/size] Of course it's a matter of preference but i think that you've missed my point. The neck on my 1990s Encore was much thicker and like no P Bass i've ever seen or played. [/quote] OK, right. But that's weird, mine is just fine, 8/10 in terms of comfort, while regular Mex P-Bass I'd consider to be 7/10. I'm mainly a fan of Japanese Fender P-Bass necks (I have a 90's '57 RI and Sting Bass necks and both are the most comfy necks ever - 10/10). So, considering that the same model bass should have similar (if not identical) parameters, that's why I said it's probably based on preference

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1388670357' post='2324558'] I would go for option B! A - out of phase just sounds bad. B - sounds cool on a Jazz so should do here too. C - possibly but you already have a volume control. D - sounds like a good idea, but I reckon it would make it sound too bright and thin - it will sound bright enough as it is with the 500K pots. [/quote] Cool, as my thoughts were similar. The B option is a neat vision - may sound as a sort of a... errr... "quadrobucker", I'd say.

[quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1388495917' post='2322631'] Switch the bridge pickups wires with each other. [/quote] Ok, I'll try switching the wires, that may help... But anyway, right now I'm considering ordering a balance/blend pot with PUSH-PUSH switch (my entrusted shop has only blend pots with that switch, so I'd give it a whirl) whenever my salary arrives. Will rewire everything to V-B-T configuration with PUSH-PUSH wired either to be: [b]a. [/b]a quick phase reversal switch [b]b. [/b]series/parallel switch [b]c. [/b]on/off switch for an entire bass [b]d.[/b] tone pot bypass Dunno which option would be the best. Either way, first I'll check whether the whole PU configuration would work correctly in V-B-T. Will keep you guys posted.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1388441442' post='2322129'] All the above apart from the neck. Mine had the thickest neck i've ever seen on a bass. It was not only chunky in width but also in depth. A strange beast indeed. [/quote] Neck's a matter of preference. Most Jazz vs. P-Bass arguments I witnessed were about the neck comfort. I like P, dislike J

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1387464931' post='2312292'] Looking good, did you do the customising [/quote] If you're asking me, then... well, the idea and design was mine, routing was done by a pro, wiring is done by me, but it requires some special treatment by someone more knowledgeable as it has some problems (two PUs are silencing each other because of identical parameters).

My customised Encore P-Bass copy from 90's.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1387321380' post='2310800'] Oh yeah! Took the Mustang off the GAS list but forgot to put it in the [s]boast[/s] basses list. [/quote] Oh, no! Now your [s]boast[/s] basses list is too long and it has to be displayed in two rows on my 1024px wide netbook screen!

One of the coolest them Fenders. My favourite humbucking pickup next to Peavey's T-series humbucker (as seen on T-40 and T-45). Cool pinstripes and overall mood this bass gives. Pawn Shop rocks. P.S. Don't you forget to edit your signature, now that you mentioned it!

Never broken a single string while playing/tuning. Makes me wonder, being a disaster prone person and all...

[quote name='Cosmo Valdemar' timestamp='1387060873' post='2307940'] Fantastic! I do love the PP arrangement. It's no wonder Entwistle was so fond of it. [/quote] Yeah, but something is wrong. You'd expect the bass would sound like a punchier Jazz Bass - it has the same wiring and similar PU layout. In Jazz Bass when two PU's are on the same volume level (balanced, that is), it has an even sound (you'd say - a balance between the sound of either PU's). But in this bass - it doesn't happen. If both PU's are balanced, the instrument sounds much brighter and with less low end (sort of like when a humbucker has reversed phase or two humbuckers are set in series). The effect stops whenever either pickup is set on higher volume than other. I was thinking that maybe it occurs because one of the coils is set improperly and it results in improper phase or something?

OK, I used the wiring diagram, but sans the both switches - decided to go simple for now. Is it normal that if both PU's are on the same volume level (balanced, that is), the instrument as a whole sounds much more punchy and bright with less low end? The effect stops whenever either pickup is set on higher volume than other.

There she is: Sounds pretty neat! Went simple on the wiring and it's only Vol, Vol, Tone.

Two screws for bridge broke when almost totally screwed into the body. Project needs to be postponed until I'll buy a new bridge with other screw layout, as the broken ones are unmoveable. EDIT: I guess "unmoveable" is not a word in my dictionary. I removed the most problematic screw and I can continue.

[quote name='Storky' timestamp='1386935492' post='2306554'] (...)I'm tempted to find one 2nd hand and have it refinished in "Fiesta Red" which would be in keeping with the fiery Mexican theme suggested by the Cabronita name. [/quote] I'd use a pickguard with some Mexican motives like Santa Muerte, Cavaleras or other things like that. Would fit nicely my custom effect I ordered.

[quote name='KevB' timestamp='1386935308' post='2306553'] You're the customer and it's your money. [/quote] 10/10

We're talking about which actually Squier Tele Bass? Tele Bass, Tele Bass Special or 70's TB? I have the latter (modded with Sting Bass neck and some minor tweaks) and it's my favourite. The Wide Range Humbucker (a.k.a. Mudbucker, if in neck position) on this baby is a really great and versatile PU if you know how to handle it. It's in an utmost position, so it does two amazing things at one time: [b]1[/b]. It gives a loads of mud and output, but [b]2[/b]. It sound changes A LOT depending on the picking place; picking above the pickup is mud and low end, picking near the bridge - that's a whole another story! Combined with a proper set of strings (Roto 88 TruBass in my case) it's a really versatile (in terms of musical genre application, not the universality of sound) and unique sounding bass. The Wide Range Humbucker can be, as you mentioned, there are many mods that can be done, as all four output wires are separate until they reach the pot cavity. So you can do a lot of mods - S/P switch, coil tap, phase reversal... You can combine those ideas using Push/Pull pots and do [url="http://cdn.seymourduncan.com/images/support/schematics/series_spl_parallel-w-phase.jpg"]this trick[/url].

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1386940561' post='2306633'] (...)A left handed (...) seven string with (...) a single cut body. (...)[/quote] Totally not my thing, but good luck with this project

I tried the RockCable by Warwick RCL 30205 D6 C coil cable. Previously I used Proel Bulk cable. It may be psychoacoustics, but I think that coiled made my bass sound even better - a bit more clarity and a slight volume boost. It's elastic, so I can move around. And looks utterly cool. As for now, I really like this cord.

GHS Precision Flatwound strings, bridge chromed cover, screws, pots and cables - this came to me few hours ago. I have all the stuff I need now. When the routing will be done by a pro, the bass will be ready to be put together and rocked. Plus, I bought new power source for 5 effects and coiled cable as a bonus!

Oh, one more thing: As I understand, the S/P switch for split coil P-Bass PU is quite controversial and many consider this a stupid idea as it usually results in switching between proper P-Bass tone and a cr*p. But if I'd changed some wires (connect them in an X patern) I'll get an "phase/off/out of phase" switches, right? Either phase switching or S/P selecting for one pickup P-Bass is silly, but with two pickups reversing the phase in one of them or setting one to parallel instead of series should bring some interesting results combined with the signal from another, unchanged PU, right?

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1386687114' post='2303085'] (...)I would use A pots (Log). [/quote] Originally (when still with one PU), bass had B500K volume pot and A500K tone pot. I decided to go with B's after looking at [url="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/bohulsey/JPCustomEliteSchematic.jpg"]this diagram[/url] (quite similar, but a bit more complicated).

Hi, I need a quick review of my wiring diagram I made for my custom shop [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/223971-immo-custom-shopencore-twinsplit-p-bass"]TwinSplit Special P-Bass[/url]. The idea is to have a regular vol/vol/tone pot setup (like in JB), but each PU should have a series/off/parallel switch (in middle position, the PU is off the grid, no matter what I'd do with the pots). Is this diagram correct or I messed something up? Cheers!