KingBollock

I went from playing 3mm almost exclusively, on bass, for over 20 years, but last year I started using some orange Dunlop .60 picks that I used on my acoustic guitars. From this thread, this seems very light, but even the next size up doesn't feel as comfortable or sound as crisp. And it was from playing a lot of death and black metal on bass that got me started with them. I still use 3mm picks on electric guitar.

The best thing about having a moderate picking attack, and setting your amp up for that, is that you then have somewhere to go if a part needs a softer attack or if it needs some welly. I also think it allows for better precision. Pick playing can actually be very versatile. I have to confess that my finger style is woeful. I am not so bad with two fingers and thumb, rolling like with my banjo, but if I want to have a sound that sounds like fingers I just use a different pick (3mm Dunlop somethingorothers, I used to use Big Stubbies, but these are black) and play closer to the neck. Edit: Dunlop Primetones!

I find the all plastic thumb picks very uncomfortable, I much prefer metal ones that can be shaped. I use those for banjo, but because the pick part is metal too, they don't work so well on bass. But you can get them with the metal thumb strap and a plastic pick. There is also the Chris Broderick Pick Clip, which is a metal thumb strap that you can fit normal picks into, but they're not easy to find.

Try a lot of different kinds and thicknesses of picks. They can make a huge difference, I'll even sometimes change the type of pick I am using depending on what song I am playing. If you're struggling to grip it, try to find a pick that is easier to hold. For you that might be a different material or something with ridges on it. Just try as many as you can.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1457604882' post='3000002'] I thought it was mostly meant for steel, but I see they do a version which is supposed to work on galvanized steel and aluminium now. Not used it for years to be honest, mostly because it's difficult if you ever want to overcoat it (you can't repaint with Hammerite or anything else unless you strip everything right off IIRC), it's kinda funny stuff compared to normal paints, but I guess it may work OK. [/quote] I need a primer that I can paint on with acrylics. I know some people that use acrylics on the Halford's primer, but they're not painting aluminium. Which is why I wanted to check first. Also, my hobby room is in a state where it can't currently be used as I am fixing it up. The music and computer sections are done, and the painting and modelling section is almost done. But the electronics section is currently nonexistent since I changed my mind on how to build it. I was going to use the bench I was using before and build shelving, parts bins, drawers and pegboard panels around it, but I am now going to be building the whole thing as one unit from scratch. It's all very frustrating (I can only work on it on four days out of ten, and only that much if I am lucky) and so I find myself constantly researching every minute detail and asking questions at every available opportunity, just so I feel like I am doing [i]something[/i] towards it.

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1457519816' post='2999223'] I've been mulling over combining two Joyo American Sound pedals into a single 'twin channel' pedal that can A/B dirty and clean settings. The pedal is based on the Tech 21 Blonde but with a mod for more low frequencies. How complicated would finding the enclosure be? It'll need to accommodate 5 controls for each channel (3 eq, 1 voice and 1 drive) and a 6th for overall level of both channels. I know there are enclosures out there which are large, but can anyone advise what the smallest footprint could be for this layout based on other designs? Front and inside shown below: [attachment=214232:DSC_0059-01.jpeg] [attachment=214231:DSC_0058.JPG] Many thanks! They're still around but their range has been massacred to about 6 fonts. [url="http://www.letraset.com/products/90-Letraset-Transfers/"]http://www.letraset....aset-Transfers/[/url] When I was working in a design consultancy, we used to print text on to adhesive sheets of plastic using the photocopier. [/quote] I think the Hammond 1590XX would do it. It's 145mm x 121mm. [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=185_187&products_id=1413"]http://www.bitsbox.c...roducts_id=1413[/url] I have one with a Big Muff and a Musket in it. Though I built both on the same piece of vero. [attachment=214233:MusketMuffBox.jpeg] That's how it looks with its very temporary labelling. There will be two more pots (with smaller knobs) and two more switches added before it's finished.

[quote name='ColinB' timestamp='1457517412' post='2999196'] I sure miss Lettraset! [/quote] My wife is a crafter (almost said crafty...) and she has tons of rub on letter sheets. You can get all sorts of different sizes and fonts. I think some of them may even be able to be foiled, meaning you can make them shiny metallic (with the right tool. One of the ones we've got is an Antex soldering iron with a metal plate attached to it). Or you can do It with transfers made with a laser printer or photocopier (the toners melt under heat, which is how the foil sticks to it). I think embossing powders could look really good when used on pedals, too. So next time you pass a craft shop, pop in and have a butcher's.

[quote name='bobbass4k' timestamp='1457484086' post='2999061'] Nuthin', most of them are just humbrol enamel model paint on pre-powder coated enclosures (the rest are marker pen...). Durability is usually a secondary concern to remembering what the the pots do. I do want to improve the artistic side of things though, but I've yet to be convinced by any of the DIY options that are practically open to me. [/quote] Ah right. Thank you for replying. I shall just get a generic automotive primer and see what happens. All the primers I have are meant for plastics. What options are open to you that you are unsure about? And what options do you feel are impractical for you that you would like to try? When I started building my own pedals I was going to try printing transfers and decals, I even bought the relevant paper, but never got around to trying it. But I got an airbrush (actually three airbrushes) and compressor for christmas, so I am a bit more motivated now. It isn't an expensive setup but it is surprisingly good quality. And the thing I like about airbrushing is that you can get away with a lot with little to no artistic ability, as long as you're patient. I shall still probably use decals for intricate lettering.

[quote name='bobbass4k' timestamp='1457476133' post='2999008'] Here's my current DIY crop, ranging aesthetically from "passable minimalism" to "accidentally painted by an alarmingly intoxicated donkey" - Gut shots are available upon request, except for those that are stuffed into their enclosures like a sausage casing full of weasels. [/quote] What do you use for a primer?

Sabaton have a song made up almost entirely of songs titles (Metal Machine), another made up of lyrics from other songs (Metal Ripper) and another made up of band names (Metal Crue). [i]I have a phobia A fear of the dark Afraid to shoot strangers The animal talks Guns scare me shitless But love gun's my friend The sentinel's coming But is this the end? Riding on this crazy train I'm going paranoid Watch me lose my mind And break the law (breaking the law, breaking the law) I'm a metal machine It's close to midnight and He's barking at the moon I'm a metal machine The rainbow in the dark is shining I'm only metal machine It's close to midnight and He's barking at the moon I'm a metal machine The kings of metal ride the sky Is this st. anger The ultimate sin Or have I really A black knight within?[/i]

A question for those that paint your own enclosures: What primer do you use? I only have acrylic polyurethane primers and I don't think they'll adhere well to aluminium. I am thinking that an automotive one would do the trick, but thought I'd best get some advice from you knowledgable lot, first.

I have considered doing this myself. The fans used are usually the same as those used in PCs. I have an old hard drive bay that has a thermostat and a couple of fans in it that I think would be ideal for this kind of thing. I would just use the thermostat, it should run on just the DC supplied to the fans in the amp. It only cost me about £7, donkey's years ago, and I have no use for it, so I don't mind cannibalising it. I would have it so that it could be switched in and out, so that it could be used just in the house but would be there to kick in if it was needed. I would imagine that you can still get them, I know you can get rather more complicated PC fan controllers. I'm sure there must be something cheap that could be used.

Unsuitable rooms always makes me think of a gig my wife and I went to see in a village pub. My wife and I had done a disco there when we owned a mobile disco. The room is about the size of our livingroom, but there is a bay that we easily fit into with our lighting rack, decks, 500w P.A. and even all the light boxes across the front, leaving plenty of room for tables and room for people to dance. The band we went to see there took up well over half the room with their gear, which included a massive P.A. So there should have been room for about 12 or 15 people to stand and watch, but they also had a huge mixing desk, and they had created a barrier using tables to cordon off the back of the room where the desk was. So in the end there was room for six people to stand in a line, as long as they didn't move. But it was so incredibly loud that being in there was literally painful. It made absolutely no sense whatsoever.

In that case I like Twincam's idea of cannibalising a new pot and putting the innards, or just the track into the old pot. But I am not sure of the ethics of such a plan.

8/10 I got #2 and #7 wrong. I knew #7 but suddenly doubted myself and buggered up.

There's Sabaton's Carolux Rex. Sabaton are pretty much a concept band, based on war, but Carolus Rex is based specifically on 100 years of Swedish war. And they recorded it in both English and Swedish.

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1455037373' post='2975291'] Those type of cable tie bases are good but there's still the issue of the adhesion not always being strong enough. Depends on the surface you're sticking it to but I've experienced them failing over time/temperature on steel and aluminium (vertically mounted so dropping off). But with silicon sealant applied round the edge as adhesive they have performed well. [/quote] I've had the exact opposite problem with them, I keep putting them in the wrong place and they're a right pain to get off again! And then I have to use new sticky pads to put them back on.

W.A.S.P. - The Crimson Idol.

If I don't want to drill an anchor point, I like these: [Img]http://images2.cableorganizer.com/adhesive-clips-bases/images/01-adhesive-base_red-cable-tie.jpg" class="ipsImage" /> However, I don't know if you can get them with a big enough slot for Velcro. Edit: You can get them large enough to take a variety of Velcro widths. The generic term for them seems to be Grip Tie Mounts. I could do with some myself.

Digitech Bass Driver. They're not expensive and they're really versatile. I love mine.

You can get cordless screwdrivers for free with cordless drill drivers. If you already have one you could get a Planet Waves bit to fit it: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Planet-Waves-Drill-Bit-Winder/dp/B008BPI2OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454157443&sr=8-1&keywords=Cordless+string+winder Or, if you don't already have one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/SPARES2GO-Cordless-Rechargeable-Electric-Screwdriver/dp/B01AAMRJVU/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1454158263&sr=1-2&keywords=Cordless+drill+driver Or: http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7114683.htm Together that comes to £14.95, so you're not saving much, but you do get the driver bits, too. And if you keep your eyes out, you can find the screwdriver even cheaper, I have seen them for as little as £3. There is the option to go for a drill-driver, but they're larger and more powerful, so you'd need to get one that you can set the torque on. One of my drill-drivers cost me £7.50, but I can't remember where from.

Sort of reminds me of this one: http://www.pouringrain.co.nz/music_2string.htm

My main four string is tuned to C standard. I put the bottom four strings from a five string set on it and tune it up. I worried about damaging something when I first did it, but it hasn't been a problem, and for some stuff I even tune it up to C# standard. I have read that the ideal bottom string for this is .118 but I am using a .130 and it works great. It is nice that the layout is kept the same, as opposed to drop tuning.

People should feel free to do whatever pleases them with their instruments. If you have a bass worth £300 or £3000, whether you choose to smash it to kindling or mount it on a wall behind bulletproof glass, is totally up to you. As I said earlier, people spend a lot more on purely ornamental stuff all the time (and if you think they don't, have a look at some of your neighbours gardens). It's about what you [i]want[/i] to do with it. If you want to play it but end up locking it up in a bank vault, that's a real shame. If you bought it to play it, then play it! Otherwise, in a couple of years, there'll be an ad in the BassChat marketplace with your name at the top. for a beautiful bass being sold because it just isn't being played, and that's a shame because it should be played and you feel guilty for not doing so and it is now time to pass it on to someone who will... Really, how often do you see those ads? Do you [i]own[/i] the bass for playing, or are you just looking after it for someone else? [And isn't it typical? I finally post something that people like enough to quote positively and there's a damned typo in it!]

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1453130255' post='2956636'] Sorry but I'm absolutely anal about trying to preserve my gear and want it all to be as mint as possible. I appreciate that they are for playing which is why I have more than one - this means that most are stored safely leaving only a couple out and at risk. [/quote] There's nothing wrong with doing your absolute best to look after your gear. In fact I would encourage it, it's a great idea. Just so long as you play it. Mind you, even then, lots of people spend an awful lot of money on things just because they look nice, that have no practical purpose, it is entirely up to the owner whether they want to hang a bass up on a wall and never play it, or whatever. But it is a shame to do that if what you really want to do is play it, to restrict one's self through fear that may well be unfounded if you look after it properly.