KingBollock

Looking at the picture on their website, there are vents on the sides but none on the back, so I would assume that it's left to right cooling.

I play a lot of metal. I have one 4 string Bass tuned half a step down and one 5 string Bass tuned to standard. I find this covers most of what I want to play. I use the D on the B string a lot for drop D songs, but this can be awkward on some songs. I have thought about installing a D-Tuner but I don't know where to put it. I think the only place would be the E string on the 5er, but that leaves the B in a weird place, but, I suppose, on those songs I wouldn't need the B string anyway.

That looks cool, really nice colour. I was a little disappointed to see no horns but nevermind.

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1342366615' post='1733799'] yes, but [i]proper[/i] porn is easier to get, surely? [/quote] Yeah, the RS catalogue was massive and came as a set of books! Much easier online.

His Equipment section is erm... interesting. Artwork isn't the word I would use for those gouges, and if it hadn't said that that was supposed to say Flame, I would have had no idea. And his political rant seems oddly placed.

Thinking about it, the only really bad case of GAS I have ever suffered started in 1989 while working in the Guitar shop. I wanted a BC Rich Warlock. We'd never stocked them, the only BC Riches we had in were a pair of Iron Bird 6 stringers, they were lovely, but not Basses. I had only ever seen Warlocks in pictures. What I [i]really [/i]wanted was a BC Rich Warlock, made of clear Perspex with a pink crackle in it, like a marble, with a Widow headstock and a whammy bar! I finally got a Warlock a few months ago, though it's just black and doesn't have a whammy bar. I had still not even held one until it turned up at my door. It was the internet that made this finally happen for me but it started nine years before I even got online.

Looking online is a lot easier than the walk to the local shop where I could smudge my snotty nose against the window in awe. Even when I ended up working in there there was still [i]That Wall[/i] with all the expensive Guitars hanging up, all Hamers. One of them was £2000! The most expensive Bass was only £900.

Perhaps it's the rig he's after... and when you turn up with it the only thing you'll leave with is a concussion.

I was thinking along those lines too. My rig takes up a footprint of 24 x 18 inches, whether I just use my 1x15 or my 4x10 or both together, it just stacks. And when it's all stacked, including the rack, it stands shorter than me.

I have put both your charts together and printed them out on one sheet, which I shall laminate and stick somewhere where it can easily be seen. They shall come in most handy. Thanks dude.

The Mole Grip idea is the best, but another way, if the screws are too short but still sticking out a bit, is to either file or saw, using a hacksaw, a slot for a flat head screwdriver into the end.

Just had a pedal from Col and it is in mint condition. He's a lovely bloke, very patient and understanding. This was my first experience of trading over BassChat and it was a happy one.

[quote name='grumble' timestamp='1341762042' post='1723694'] Mid 70's Jap knock off of Triumph basses Peavey Milestones De Armond Jet-Stars Cort Curbow 5'ers Italia Tipos All unfashionable, all in my collection Fashionable ? Anything with Fender on the headstock In that respect I'm happily unfashionable [/quote] I wish I could find a use for a Cort Curbow. I like Cort and have a couple myself, though one isn't a Bass, and I love the idea of having something almost entirely synthetic., They look good too. It's an odd feeling, believing that I have all my bases (ah ha!) covered and won't ever need to buy another. It's good too, considering I can't even justify what I've spent on them already, and I don't buy expensive Basses.

Some naughty people aren't reading the title and first post, are they?

I started playing in 1987. I put my first band together after about 3 months. But I joined my first proper band (one that had had a manager!) after about a year. Everyone else in the band were 18+ and I was 13. From then until just before my 18th birthday I was never without a band. Since then I haven't been in a band as a drastic and secretive move meant I lost contact with everyone I knew. There have been a few "Oh yeah! We should certainly do something!"s and a couple of failed get togethers, but nothing proper. I miss it so much it makes my heart ache.

Some Aria Pro Basses are quite well liked lately, except mine, of course. Also, some Westfields are well thought of, again, except my discontinued one. Anything by Cort and most BC Rich Basses are very uncool. So, that covers all mine then.

The problem I've got with my Warlock is that the fretboard is only 5mm proud of the body and with the bridge set at it's lowest the action is twice as high as I'd like. I checked my other Basses and they tend to have the fretboards around 10mm proud, which works better.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1341597393' post='1721692'] You can buy patch bays as a separate unit. Luckily my sound card has a breakout box. As you can see, I've got plenty of room to plug and unplug cables, but a patch bay or some kind of mixer would be something to think about if I couldn't reach the back of them for whatever reason. [/quote] Yeah, I have a little 6 channel mixer sitting on my desk just so I don't have to get at the back of my rack, which is only an 8u ABS thing, so it's not very heavy. I'm just lazy. Although I do have stuff piled all over it that I have to take off every time I want to get at the back of it. And the midi cable attaching it to my PC is too short so I have to go under my desk to unplug that...and so on... Moving a desk on wheels might well be easier.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1341596196' post='1721662'] +1. You should have all the controls that need editing at the front and all the controls that are permanently plugged in at the back. If you have inputs that need unplugging that are at the back of a rack unit, then you can get patch bays for 1/4" jacks and you can run multicore cables to breakout boxes from your mixer to the microphones if required. [/quote] Ah. I don't have any patch bays with my rack stuff, so I didn't think about them. Though I should have done because as part of my desk I built a panel into it that has sockets and switches that connect to the inputs and outputs of my PC's Soundcard, which sits under my desk.

[quote name='Valhalalf' timestamp='1341592120' post='1721580'] I'm pretty sure you didn't offend anyone With the RTA it is really easy to wheel away from the wall to get round the back of it. Plus I cable tied the mains supply to the back of it and make full use of the cable manager. This means there is only the mains lead running away from the desk at the side so everything moves with it. I could in theory unplug the mains at the wall and wheel the whole setup into another room in one go. Nice and simple. [/quote] I didn't really mean "offend" I meant to type "insult anyone's desk" but all of a sudden I had a brain burp and lost the words. That seems to be happening more and more lately.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1341591425' post='1721559'] Well luckily it's not your desk then [/quote] True! I wasn't intending to offend anyone, it was a genuine question, I wondered if I'd missed something obvious. Trouble is that I'm a rather large chap and clambering about under my desk is a nightmare.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1341588591' post='1721502'] Funny you should mention "wheels" because this one is actually on castors [/quote] Well, that explains it. Though it still seems quite a faff to move a whole desk.

[quote name='Commando Jack' timestamp='1341585707' post='1721437'] I vaguely remember reading in Sound on Sound that setting up in the corner was a no-no because of the bass resonances. [/quote] Is that because the sound should ideally go to a flat wall, or because they shouldn't go into an opposite corner? Because of the long shape of the room the desk isn't pointed at another corner, just an angled wall. My desk isn't a studio desk, so I don't worry about that at the moment. But the plan is to get some monitors and do it properly, but, like I say, I am planning on building a new, straight, desk anyway.

I was looking at these desks with the built in racks and thought they were a good idea, and I'm planning on building a new desk at some point as I've been dragging this bloomin' gre't big Frankensteinien things around with me for years. But once you've got your rack gear bolted in, how do you get at the back of it? My rack gear is in an ABS rack next to my desk and it's a pain to turn around to get at the back of it as it is, but having to move an entire desk...? Part of my new desk design does have a rack, but it's on wheels and will roll out to allow access to the back. Also, I see no one has posted a corner desk. That's what mine is and I find it cosy and find everything easy to reach. Though my plans for a new desk will be a straight one, the full length of the room. I shall actually bolt it to the wall for extra stability. Be interesting to see some more designs for desks for more ideas.

[quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1341468903' post='1719396'] Can see what you mean (although this one looks bolt-on). [attachment=112226:BC Rch.jpg] Bizarre they make them like this. Did you fix it? [/quote] Not yet. I don't want to stir up the old thread, it still gives me nightmares, so I shall post here. This photo is out of focus but I forgot to take another. In it you can see that the fretboard is low and the action high: This doesn't help: Here you can see the difference between having the sliders in and not. Unfortunately there's no way to hold the saddles in place without the sliders, apart from string pressure: This is what the slider and saddle look like together: Here you can see what the action is like without the slider and only the saddle. Much better: Ideally I should sink the bridge into the body, but, the depth I'd have to go would mean I'd have to replace the bridge as there would be no way to get the strings in on this bridge unless I had some of the body behind the bridge removed too, which would need refinishing... So my thought was to take some material from the bottom of each slider and each saddle, enough to make up about 5mm. That way it would look and work just how it's supposed to but be lower. And, if I completely cock it up I only have to replace the bridge (£20 for the same model) and I'm back to square one.