KingBollock

[quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1337764249' post='1664976'] I had a 5 String Warlock NT and Mockingbird NT from the same series. The neck angles on both were so wrong, couldn't get a low action at all. I had to get the bridges routed into the body to get a decent action. I imagine the guy stripped the nut trying to sort a problem that was the manufacturers in the first place. [/quote] The nut isn't stripped, it just looks like it is. It can be turned but it is awkward. I'm going to take it to someone who will hopefully have the right tools to turn it. In this case it isn't the neck angle that is wrong, it's pretty straight, the problem is that the fretboard sits only 5mm proud of the body, where on my other Basses it is 10mm. I fear that there isn't that much relief to be taken out of the neck, though, certainly not enough to fix the problem. I have to say that I don't fancy having the body routed because the bridge isn't all that thick and there would need to be extra space routed behind it to be able to get the strings in easily. Which means refinishing that area or lining it with half a shallow metal dish. If, once the neck has been sorted properly, there is still the same problem, I believe that taking material away from under the sleds (I keep calling them sleds but I don't know what they are actually called, they are the sliders that the saddles sit in) and from under the saddles. I would only need to take a couple of millimeters from under each part, which would compensate for the fretboard's lack of height from the body, and if I were to completely cock it up a replacement bridge is only £20. You would have thought, with it being a neck-through, they would have taken extra care to get this sort of thing right, which is why, along with some of the advice from here, I am doubting myself, so I will take it to someone before I do anything. I have set-up Basses before and have even come across the same problem, where the neck is almost flat and the bridge sits too high and can't be lowered any more, in that case I shimmed the neck and it was fine.

[quote name='Jack' timestamp='1337717574' post='1664554'] Dunlop Gator Grip .96 The best sound/feel I've found, and they don't fall out of my sweaty hands. does anybody else have a box full of random picks? [/quote] Not a box full but I do have a Jack Daniel's cigarette case full. From the ridiculously thin and flimsy, upto 3mm Big Stubbies, and alsorts in between, including reshaped coins and washers, and metal finger and thumb picks.

Some new photos of my rather jumbled assortment of bits: Amps & Cabs: Basses, Guitars, Banjo and Ukulele: My troublesome new baby:

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1337682366' post='1663778'] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175mm-FLEXIBLE-SCREWDRIVER-BIT-HOLDER-1-4-HEX-SHANK-/300712984180?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item4603e3fe74"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4603e3fe74[/url] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WERA-300-SERIES-FLEXIBLE-SHAFT-1-4-HEX-BIT-HOLDER-/300712575473?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4603ddc1f1"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4603ddc1f1[/url] [/quote] I've got one of those from the first link. I have tried it but the non bendable part is 2cm too long. Another problem is that I don't have a Hex bit that will fit, I have 5mm or 6mm but not 5.5mm, I only have an allen key in 5.5mm. My current plan is to leave it alone until I can show it to a pro. I have been to Crane's in Swansea before, so if the chap in the shop around the corner can't recommend anyone closer, I shall go there.

Thanks Johnston, the ball ended allen key does seem like the best idea so far. I have normal allen keys but... I have put the truss rod cover back on now (less likely to mess about with it) so I can't take photos, so I've knocked up a crappy little diagram to show my problem: The black lines are the Bass and the outline of the truss rod recess. The red in each diagram is what I can do, the green is what I wish I could do but can't as you can see by the way it clashes with the black lines. Hopefully that will explain things better then I have been able to in just words. Though it's probably just going to add a whole new level of confusion...

[quote name='dincz' timestamp='1337619907' post='1662924'] I haven't read this thread in detail so sorry if I'm totally off track here. If there's not enough clearance to swing the allen key more than a few degrees, couldn't you slip a matching size ring spanner over it (using the long end of the "L") before inserting it into the screw head? Or cut a length off the allen key and use a socket spanner. [/quote] Unfortunately the truss rod recess is so deep that you can't get a straight run at the truss rod. I couldn't get a spanner or pliers in the hole because it's so tight. I could try cutting a length of the allen key off and drilling holes in the side of it so I could put a slim rod or screwdriver in it to use as a handle. I did try reshaping the allen key, using a blowtorch and a lot of pressure, but they're tough little buggers. I'm hoping that someone who does this sort of thing for a living might have the relevant tool for such a problem.

I have set up Basses in the past and never had this kind of trouble, I have to confess that this one has thrown me somewhat. I haven't cut chunks out of it or ground anything off it. My first thought was to try to reshape the allen key I was using. I am coming up with ideas and bouncing them off here. I have every intention of finding someone proper to look at it before I do anything, infact I'd rather just let someone else work on it, or at the very least get advice from someone holding it in their hands. I am happy with the way it is right now so I'm not in a hurry to go chopping at it, I haven't done anything to it that can't be easily undone.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1337615183' post='1662826'] Sorry my bad, you misunderstood what I said, I know the bridge is the original (that's why I'm kind of trying to persuade you to not grind it down just yet) what I meant was that the neck didn't start off being like that. Anyway I think I've done all I can here. Good luck man. [/quote] Sorry, I don't mean to be stupid. I'm just not sure the neck was the problem I made it out to be. It will be a while before I can get my hands on a grinder, in the mean time I shall have a look for a local repairer, there's a chap around the corner who I think would be a good place to start, he runs a small Guitar shop but mostly does lessons there. I shall take your advice and get more advice before I go chopping away at it. I really do appreciate the help.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1337613740' post='1662793'] But it didn't start off like that. Rather than take a bench grinder to your dream bass in order to address it's current issues you should try and fix what's causing it... imho. I couldn't agree more. They will be able to help you address this in a way that's more sympathetic to the instrument. [/quote] It's the stock bridge, I have a feeling that it did start off like that. Which, granted, is a bit worrying quality control wise, (not being able to get the action below 4.5mm is a bit crap) but I can't see how it could have been done afterwards. All the truss rod stuff I was banging on about turned out not to be the real problem.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1337612005' post='1662745'] I'm glad you are much happier now but it kinda sounds to me like you are relieving symptoms (somewhat drastically too) but not curing the cause. [/quote] True, but it's working. I think I was able to take enough relief out of the neck so that it isn't a problem, it now has some heavy flatwounds on it and is fine. I think, in the end, the problem is that it's a neck-through and the bridge's profile is too high for it. Ideally I should have the bridge sunk into the body, but that's not a route I can really take. A lower profile bridge would be better but it would have to only be 10mm high, in total, and I can't find one. So I shall take the height out of the current bridge by taking material from the bottom of the sleds and the saddles and it should be fine. You say what I've done is drastic but I haven't done anything that can't be undone, yet. If the worst comes to the worst I can buy a whole new bridge, the same one, for £20. I really don't want to have to go through the fuss of returning it. So, other than return it, what would you do? One thing I have thought about is that I need to find a local Guitar repairer or Luthier that I can talk to in person and show the problems to in the future.

Quick update for those that aren't completely sick of hearing about the damned thing... I think I've got it sorted. I managed to turn the truss rod a bit, which has helped no end, would like a little bit more but not enough to carve chunks out of the headstock to get it. I have taken the little sled things out of the bridge so the strings are resting on the little saddles alone. I have taken the flatwounds off my Westfield and put them on the Warlock and the string tension is enough to hold the saddles in place now. I suppose I would like to have a slightly lower action and I think I might be able to get it by sorting out the nut a bit, it looks like it's never been touched. One other problem is that the pick-ups are too close to the strings, and because it's a double P, there isn't much space inbetween them, so I keep clicking them with my pick, and the screws to lower them are buggered. There's enough grip to be able to get them out with a little flathead, though, so I can replace them. On my shopping list for this year is a bench mounted grinding wheel/sander ( [url="http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbg6sb-6in-bench-grinder-with-sander?da=1&TC=SRC-bench%20grinder"]http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbg6sb-6in-bench-grinder- with-sander?da=1&TC=SRC-bench%20grinder[/url] ) so when I get it I shall set about the bottoms of the sleds and saddles so that they are a lower profile together but still look OK. Sorry for all the fuss, I do tend to worry and panic easily. I always assume the worst is going to happen or is happening. It's not often that something goes right. Having spent a while playing it I have to say that it was worth it in the end. It sounds great and the sustain lasts forever. And, obviously, it look fantastic. Finally, after all these years, I have [i]my[/i] Bass.

3mm Dunlop Big Stubbies for me too. The way they are shaped makes them really versatile, capable of delicacy, speed and a good old thunk. They're aren't cheap though, especially as the tips wear down quite quickly.

Thanks to Lettsguitars I was able to sort the truss rod into a suitable position. I'm not sure what'll happen when I put heavier strings on it but I'll worry about that later. The action is still really high but now it's entirely due to the bridge... I have this bridge: [url="http://www.rosetti.co.uk/Product/BC-Rich-Bass-Bridge-with-Sliding-Saddles-4-String-"]http://www.rosetti.c...ddles-4-String-[/url] The problem with it is that it won't allow the action to be lowered enough. I've done a little experimenting and I have tried it without the saddle, with the string just resting on the little sledge thing. This meant it was still a little too high and if I did it will all the strings I wouldn't be able to alter the height of any of them to follow the arc of the fretboard. Currently I have taken the sledge out and just put in the saddle. I have been able to get this to the height I like, unfortunately it is quite unstable because it is quite narrow, and the string tension isn't enough to hold it in place. Normally I would shim the neck at this point but it is neck-through, so that ain't happening. The best thing would be to route out under the bridge but I don't have the confidence to do that and I couldn't afford to get it done. Ideally I need a new sled/saddle thing but I don't know where to start looking. On the bridge the saddle is sitting 8.5mm above the bridge, with a little of that height added using the screws in it. It is 12mm wide. With the bridge the whole thing is 10mm high. Any ideas?

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1337522541' post='1661292'] Are you sure you don't need a smaller allen key? Sometimes the nut is inside a housing which makes it look bigger. Do you know if it's a single action rod or dual? A dual action rod wont allow you to remove the nut without breaking everything. [/quote] It looks like you might be right. There's a brass part inside that seems to accept a 5.5mm allen key and it turns. Now there's a new problem, though. There isn't enough room to turn the key as far as I need to, the route for the truss rod access is very narrow and deep. The allen key will turn but only so far and it's not far enough to be able to take the key out and put it in the next position, if you see what I mean. Because of the angle it isn't possible to use the long part or a bit on the end of a long screwdriver either. I have tried putting a twist into an allen key but they're bloomin' tough little things and I haven't got anything to apply enough heat to make it budge even a little bit. It's starting to look like the best option is to remove some of the wood either side of the access trench. The trouble is that if I'm wrong I've just gone and damaged it even more.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1337522210' post='1661275'] Reversing the bridge to the neck pickup is a good cool but I'd consider having the neck one reversed from the "traditional" configuration so that the portions picking up the D and G strings were furthest apart and the those picking up the E and A closest together. For controls I still haven't heard a passive blend I was convinced by so I'd go for VVTT and a guitar style pickup selector switch. [/quote] I installed a blend in my passive Westfield P/J and even though it's a P/J it still works well, I really like it. It was just an experiment but it worked so well I kept it in there.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1337521817' post='1661267'] Does yours take a 4mm allen key? Mine does... I've sent them an email to ask if this one is the same [/quote] I don't know what it takes. I thought standard was 6mm, but the hole in this is perfectly round so it's hard to tell.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1337496137' post='1660741'] What controls are most common? VVT, or perhaps VVTT? (I don't do actives) [/quote] VVTT is the most versatile, but if you've not got space for the extra knob, then Volume/Blend/Tone would be what I would go for.

I've found a mate of my wife's who owns a screw/bolt removal set, so I shall five that a go. I am going to ring 'round some places tomorrow to see if anyone can recommend someone to do the repair for me. If I can get it fixed for less than it would cost to return it, the return postage being unrecoverable, then I shall keep it. So I have about £40 to get it fixed. I've got a feeling it wouldn't be easy to return it anyway. I think this nut is the one I'm looking for: [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Trussrod_Nut_Cylinder_Nickel_TRN-11"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Trussrod_Nut_Cylinder_Nickel_TRN-11[/url] When I straightened the neck with my hands yesterday, the strings sat perfectly. This Bass does mean a lot to me, if I can get it fixed then I'd be the happiest person on earth. If I can't and I have to return it, the chances of me ever getting another one are pretty much zero as I shall never trust buying over Ebay again and living where I do it's unlikely I'd ever find one within a reasonable driving distance, especially with the price of fuel as it is.

One of the things I [i]do[/i] like about my Warlock is the sound. It has the double P pick-ups and it sounds huge and really clear.

[quote name='CBbass' timestamp='1337451413' post='1660355'] What bass is it? Jazz? [/quote] Promise you won't laugh? It's a B.C. Rich Warlock NT. I've wanted a Warlock for over 20 years. Last year I decided to go for it and buy the ideal one for me. I had seen one new for £499, everywhere else was asking £560+. Then I discovered that it was a discontinued model and then the place I was going to buy it from sold out. I ended up buying a Cort T-35 and a Peavey 4x10 instead. When I saw this one on Ebay I just had to have it. I think I'm cursed.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1337450103' post='1660319'] If the nut is really that badly damaged then it would suggest that the truss rod has some sort of problem... like it isn't turning. That being the case you should probably return it anyway. [/quote] Erk, that's an even horribler thought.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1337449081' post='1660287'] In that case, if you can't repair it cheaply I'd push for a partial refund to cover your costs! Hope you get it up and working either way, must suck to have your dream bass experience tainted by this [/quote] It really does suck. In all honesty I could cry. Like I say, we have struggled this month just to pay for it. I took into account bank holidays and weekends and delivery times, but even so it took far longer than it should have to get here. That was worrying, especially as he didn't tell us what was going on without us having to ask, and I didn't want to be pushy. I was chuffed to bits with the condition of it, though, it's been really well looked after and I was willing to forgive the wait, until I found this, which is a pretty major flaw.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1337448655' post='1660275'] What tools have you got? I'd remove the neck for best possible access, then try various screwdrivers, allen keys. torx drivers whatever fits into the damaged socket best, a straight screwdriver blade will sometimes fit across the internal hex corners enough to do the job. Failing that try a Torx, you can even attempt to get a tool in with a gentle application of hammer!. Then before trying to turn (left for loose) take the strain off the rod by applying hand pressure to the neck, then go for the best grip you can get & try, it shouldn't be that tight with no load on. Good luck, John [/quote] I forgot to mention that it's a neck-through, so can't take the neck off. Unfortunately, buying it has left us short this month so I am going to have to wait to buy tools. The hole has been sheered smooth, there is nothing to grip at all. I was wondering about cutting a slot in opposite sides and trying to get it out with a large screwdriver but I don't have one wide enough. I hadn't thought about taking the strain off the neck like that, though, that is very helpful, thanks.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1337448577' post='1660271'] If he sold it to you like that he's stitched you up mate, you'd be within your rights to return it despite him telling you he doesn't take returns (I wonder why he says that!). If you want the bass I guess you could send him a bill for the repairs. How did you pay for it? If its Paypal or similar, it's so easy to get a refund [/quote] I paid with a debit card, I think it went through Paypal but I'm not sure, my wife did it. I'm a bit worried about having to stump up for the postage though. I paid £15 for the postage and he later said it actually cost him £40. I can't afford to just let that amount go, I struggled to pay for the damned thing in the first place, I only bought it because it's my dream Bass and I've wanted one for over 20 years.

Well, I'm sick to death of this new Bass already. Who said dreams can come true, eh? After finding that the action looks like a suspension bridge I lowered the bridge saddles as much as they would go, which wasn't far. I also noticed that the neck has quite a bit of relief in it. So, today, I decided to have a crack at the truss rod, but the damned nut is buggered. Where you would normally put an allen key it is totally round, nothing to grip on. I noticed that WD Music do a replacement nut: [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Trussrod_Nut_Cylinder_Nickel_TRN-11"]http://www.wdmusic.c...r_Nickel_TRN-11[/url] but I'm not sure how to get the current one out. I have seen these on Amazon: [url="http://www.rolsontools.com/search.asp?page=1&id=376&tt=1&ct=1&searchCat=0&searchStock=28997"]http://www.rolsontoo...archStock=28997[/url] and was wondering if they might work? I can't find a repair place near here by looking online, I don't suppose anyone knows of somewhere near Carmarthen that could do it? How much should I expect to pay to get it fixed? Or does anyone have any advice on how to do it myself? I tried taking photos of it but my camera won't focus in the hole, so you can't see the damage. At this point I'm wondering if it would be possible to send it back for a full refund, though he did say he didn't take returns, I have his address I might just turn up and stick it up his ar*e. I doubt I will be buying online again, I've been totally put off.