99ster

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='113203' date='Jan 3 2008, 09:17 PM']I know someone who knocked over his Gibson Les Paul after a gig and snapped the headstock off. It was £65 to fix & the Luthier did an excellent job. Perhaps this was a particularly clean break that was easier, so cheaper, to fix than some.[/quote] So easy to do - they will even snap off inside a case - I've seen a '64 335 (worth about £15K) fall over in its case (the original Gibson case). The headstock had snapped almost in two - because it's not supported properly in the old cases the neck can suffer from a 'whiplash' effect. And the necks are made from mahogany which is very brittle & just snaps into loads of splinters. Horrendous. You have to VERY careful how you handle & transport Gibson guitars & basses - especially the old ones. You'll see loads of them with headstock repairs...

[quote name='andy67' post='113195' date='Jan 3 2008, 08:58 PM']thats an extortionate quote..really would take a luthier around an hour to prepare and glue dowels/headstock and a further couple to finish off...£50 an hour would seem reasonable to me![/quote] +100 That's way over what anyone should be paying! [url="http://www.andyviccarscustom.co.uk/repairs.php"]Andy Viccars[/url] for example charges from £30 for a headtock repair & his work is as good as it gets.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='113028' date='Jan 3 2008, 04:51 PM']yep as long as the rest of the neck is in tact and you have all of the pieces you can glue the headstock back onto the neck, you might be able to do it yourself with some wood glue, sandpaper and finishing stuff. However if you get a pro to do it it might be expensive but they can make it look as if it had never come off.[/quote] Sorry but in IMHO - it's not as easy as that to fix - when it's done properly it often requires metal pins being added to support the break because of the stress caused by string tension. I've seen repairs look great until the first time the strings are put back on & it's tuned up...then it all comes apart again. Especially with Gibsons which are infamous for having weak headstocks. It's really not a job for an amateur & a pro repair will only cost around £150 - & like you say can be made to look 'invisible'.

[quote name='CHRISDABASS' post='112612' date='Jan 2 2008, 10:25 PM']OHHHHHHHHHHH sh*t!!!!! i just checked over the 5 guitars that i got back from the police today!!!!! my friends gibson sg now has a VERY broken headstock!!!!!!!!! basterds!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i wanna kick the crap out of the thieving gits!!!!!!! crap!!!!!! argh!!!![/quote] Maybe a bit far from you guys - but Andy Viccars is an expert in repairing Gibson headstock breaks... [url="http://www.andyviccarscustom.co.uk/"]http://www.andyviccarscustom.co.uk/[/url]

[quote name='Deep Thought' post='87587' date='Nov 12 2007, 09:32 PM'][quote] From what I understand, the 'router hump' was a feature of most old Fenders (both guitars & basses) - certainly up to the mid 60's, though I'm not sure exactly what year it stopped appearing. I have a '66 Precision with a 'router hump', and have owned a '69 Precision without. It was caused by a routing machine at the Fender plant that was unable to complete a smooth curve on the tight curve on the lower horn of the body. This 'feature' stopped appearing when a new routing machine was installed at the plant - sometime in the late 60's. I have heard it said that sometimes it was smoothed out by hand - but personally, I wouldn't buy a 60's Fender without it. That said, some of the better custom body makers add it as a feature on re-issue guitar & bass bodies.[/quote] Cheers for that-illustrates it very nicely. [/quote] I've also read another theory that it was an intentional feature - with the extra wood at that point helping to keep the neck pocket from cracking...

[quote name='bremen' post='112189' date='Jan 2 2008, 11:51 AM']I asked him for the serial number - it checks out as being 1966-67. But it's on the neck plate, shouldn't it be on the headstock? Isn't the big F on the neckplate a 70s innovation? Should the neck have a skunk stripe? If we're convinced that this is a fake - and he virtually admits it - we should maybe politely suggest he alter the description. Recent experience shows that Evilbay don't give a fjork. On the other hand, anyone who still believes it pukka after reading his answers probably deserves it. I think if it goes for real money I'll tip the winner off.[/quote] For a 1966 Fender bass the serial number would be stamped on an 'F' neck plate ('F' neck plates were used from late 1965 onwards). The serial number is correct for that year - but it's very easy to get hold of an 'F' neck plate copy with a serial number added (it may even be an original neck plate). The serial numbers weren't put on the headstocks until around ten years later in 1976. The neck on a 1966 Precision wouldn't have had a skunk stripe.... But no - it most certainly isn't a genuine 1966 Precision... it's just a junk copy with a decal & a F neck plate added. (Here's real 1966 Precision: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=1543)"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=1543)[/url]

Stumbled across this site when looking for info on recording techniques - well worth a look: [url="http://www.saecollege.de/reference_material/"]http://www.saecollege.de/reference_material/[/url]

[url="http://www.westsidedistribution.com/"]Westside Distribution[/url] - they import Mesa/Boogie - excellent service for spares, etc... A v.big thumbs up! Whereas SWR - or rather Fender UK who own SWR were utter rubbish. Could only get any help with schematics (for an SM400) from a guy in the US. But that's the usual story with the UK versus US for customer service... And Wal (Pete The Fish) have always been tremendous for me...

[quote name='ShergoldSnickers' post='108844' date='Dec 24 2007, 11:07 AM']If you still have any pics I'd love to see them. [/quote] Unfortunately I never took any pics - it was a good 20 years ago when I sold it on, before digital cameras made taking photos such a quick & easy thing to do...

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='108563' date='Dec 23 2007, 02:30 PM']Zender is no longer on ANY register or literature pertaining to Warwick (hasn't been for a while). Unless he is locked in some form of legal wrangling it isn't related to Warwick.[/quote] +1. This is a quote from Stuart (from the Q&As at www.stuartzender.net) [i]"...I find the older basses have more dirt and less of a clinical sound than the new ones, though there is some monstrous bottom end to be found on some of the newer models. I lean towards my trusty 64P-bass a lot these days. Its unfortunate what happened to my custom basses but this is through no fault of my own. I do hope that one day they may find themselves at an auction raising lots of money for a charity that would benefit some more deserved people rather than me or the current owners. I bought my first Warwick before I joined the band and it was only after the success of the first album that I was approached by them. I did use a variety of basses on all the albums. Alembic, Fender, Musicman, and Warwick were the basses used. I currently hold no sponsorship deals from any Bass Guitar or String companies."[/i]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='107939' date='Dec 21 2007, 11:55 PM']Yeah great sound. I'd like to know what amp setup he's using Aguilar[/quote] The sound we're hearing will be the Fenders direct through either a REDDI, Ridge Farm Gas Cooker or similar very expensive boutique valve DI box - his Aguilar rig is usually just for his 'on stage' sound... It's hard to see on this footage if the cab is miked up as well, but he normally doesn't have it miked up...

'Divided By 13' amps are reckoned to be amazing for guitar... He also does a bass amp.... [url="http://www.dividedby13.com/tbl200.html"]http://www.dividedby13.com/tbl200.html[/url] Mmmmm.... I bet that is sweet.

[quote name='ShergoldSnickers' post='108283' date='Dec 22 2007, 06:37 PM']Easy. The only bass I have. [attachment=4285:marathon.jpg][/quote] Cool bass...! I had the 6 string version for a while (fretless as well).

[quote name='Hit&Run' post='107806' date='Dec 21 2007, 06:49 PM']I'd quite like a nice black guitar strap with a buckle, [i]a la Marcus[/i]. It doesn't have to be identical to his, just as long as it's black, has a buckle, and is preferably quite wide for load-bearing duties. I haven't seen one in a shop for a while; so do any of you guys know of products and/or retailers that fit my requirements? Bo![/quote] Something like this??? [url="http://www.eldoradostraps.com/products-over.htm"]http://www.eldoradostraps.com/products-over.htm[/url]

[quote name='Volume' post='102998' date='Dec 11 2007, 11:41 PM']Hi guys I've been offered a Vintage Ampeg B15N combo, and just wanted to check with you folks about how much I should offer for it... it's in good working condition, having recently been serviced and PAT Tested, but has some damage to the Tolex covering, and has has an Altec Lansing Blowout-proof speaker fitted... how much would this affect the amount that I should pay, and also how would it affect the value that I could sell it on for? I've heard nothing but good things about these combos, obviously it'd be too heavy for regular live work, but it would be an excellent tool for use in the studio. The other thing I'd like opinions on would be about who I should go to, to get the Tolex replaced/repaired? and also where would be best to have it serviced in the future? Many thanks Rich[/quote] They're actually not that heavy & the cab is quite shallow - so they're pretty easy to move around. Saying that - my 1965 B-15N is full flight-cased because they're definitely NOT up to being humped around in the back of a van & certainly not to loads of gigs. Mine is too precious to me to risk taking to gigs at all... But for recording, which is what I got it for, they are THE ultimate. You simply can't get anything better. Testament to this are the countless classic LP's that have been recorded using an Ampeg B-15 over the last 40 years - & they are a feature in every important studio in the world, and are held in the highest regard by the best producers & engineers... Though I would say that they're not best suited to active modern basses - which is no surprise I suppose! They go best with old Fenders... You should check out this site: [url="http://www.fliptops.net/"]http://www.fliptops.net/[/url] Bruce, the guy that runs it is very helpful, & knows all there is to know about old Ampegs... I had Steve Rowse [url="http://www.stevesamps.co.uk/"]http://www.stevesamps.co.uk/[/url] restore mine & convert it to UK mains after I imported it from the US. He's highly recommend. And the info from Ted is excellent....!

[quote name='G-bitch' post='106480' date='Dec 19 2007, 02:05 PM']They made a buster head too - not sure if it ever made it to this side of the pond though, rare as hens teeth as it is. Agreed, Trace valve amps are to be avoided if you want grindy, unless it's one of the older ones with the SMX pre-amp and a low powered (100w ish) output stage that you can drive.[/quote] You're right about the Buster head (& cabs) - a mythical beast indeed - I suspect they never even imported them into the UK.... I'd love one if any has one!

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='106378' date='Dec 19 2007, 10:10 AM']Mesa Boogie also made a much less popular Buster 200 wedge combo which might actually prove to be better value.[/quote] I've got a Mesa/Boogie Buster 200 wedge combo & it is bloody fantastic - wonderful all valve tone & LOUD for a 2x10. Highly recommended. Everyone that hears it goes mad for the tone... There was one on eBay recently - so they do appear every now & again even though Mesa/Boogie don't make them anymore...

[quote name='silverfoxnik' post='105926' date='Dec 18 2007, 01:47 PM'][i]"My Wal will never go. I've had it years. I can't say it was my first good bass because there were a few ok ones before it, but it has been with me through thick & thin, it sounds marvellous, and I love it!! I know I surprised Nik by saying the Wal was semi retired, but that's new toys for you. For some reason I am less worried about harm coming to the SUB5, which is NOT to say that the Wal will be wrapped in cotton wool and put away as a collectors item!! "[/i] +2 Echoing what both Rich and WalMan have said, mine would have to be my Wal Pro2e. It is the only bass that I can play without ever having to look at the fretboard to see what my hands are doing.. It's totally instictive I suppose because I've had Wals for almost 25 years now and especially, the old Pro models.. Also, every one of my other basses could be replaced more easily and i think that factor has to come into the equaition if you can only keep one bass. There's less of Wals around and they seem to get more expensive year after year! Al - perhaps you could say that your Wal is officially 'resting' [/quote] +1 for my Wal Custom - my first 'good' bass that I bought new in 1987. Even though I now have a 1960 Jazz & a fair few other lovely vintage Fenders - I think I might still go for the Wal first.

10 for me 455 + 10 = [size=6][b]465[/b][/size]

Damn I wish I hadn't seen that one... Oh I do like that - sweet. I can feel the GAS coming on bad...

[quote name='lwtait' post='103441' date='Dec 12 2007, 05:42 PM']I often see on the ebay link section people talking about this is a scam, that is a scam. But half of these I wouldn't have been able to tell it was a scam, and it isn't always that obvious. So I think we should make a list of things to look out for when buying a bass to check if it is some sort of scam.[/quote] Here's some things to watch for that should at least make you think twice... 1. Price. Scams work by luring gullible people in with bargain prices that they just can't resist. So you do need to have an idea of the realistic market value/price of the item. If it's a £5K vintage bass then the starting price will probably be for £ thousands. A scammer will start the bidding at a silly low price, with no reserve. 2. Photos. A good genuine seller will usually would provide a complete set of good photos. 3. Zero feedback, new seller. Yes - everyone has got to start somewhere...but this is when they definitely need to provide other things to reassure - like cash on collection. 4. 'Private' auction. 5. Locations: Especially the far North of Scotland. I'm sure there are many, many genuine sellers in the far North of Scotland - but it also seems to be overflowing with things like valuable vintage basses! This location has become a favourite of scammers - because how many folks from London (for example) are going to travel from London to check out a bass in Aberdeen??? Or ask awkward questions like 'can I come & check out the bass' or worse still 'I'll pay cash & collect the bass' 6. "FREE" shipping. 7. No offer to pay cash on collection. Any genuine seller will ALWAYS welcome inspection & cash on collection - especially for a valuable bass for example. If they don't then something is wrong. 8. No reply to questions. A genuine seller will always reply & may even provide a phone number for an expensive item like a bass & actively welcome questions...more especially if they are a new seller with 0 feedback. And you can always post the item here if you are suspicious - there's plenty of folks on BassChat who have a highly developed nose for sniffing out a scam, and who are only too happy to help in stopping them.