tbonepete

Hi Thanks Pete, You have pretty much said the same as the online users manual, which incidently is different to the manual got with the amp itself (in the crucial input setting section). This should make sense. I have just swapped the valve for my spare, and volume is way way louder, so that is one thing I suppose.However, it still isn't the fat clean sound of the LH500 (a bit shouty if I'm honest) and for that reason I'm out! (in a dragons den stylee). There is much love for the GB heads, and cabs, and rightly so, just not in this case, so its the cupboard I'm afraid , But on a happier note, I shall probably use the bag, as it's a good size for leads, tuner, fast fret etc, so not all bad then. Thanks again Cheers Pete

[quote name='OmeDunk' timestamp='1338214536' post='1670898'] Set the gain as low as possible to get an audible result. Don't put it higher than 9 o'clock. The rest at noon. Master section at taste. Don't push the signal shape buttons. This is a real world setting. If the result isn't a clean sound, you've got a faulty unit. [/quote] I shall try these, although I think I may have done so already, and in any case I was after maximum clean volumes (as per my original post) and not "just" clean, as I have also already said I can get clean, but not clean AND loud. It still may not be faulty either. It may be just a case of wrong sound for me, so I'm not sure if there is any certainty that the unit is faulty if I just don't like the sound Cheers Pete

Thanks for the replies guys, however, I just wanted some real world "CLEAN" settings to try to see if the shuttle could be a useful backup/alternative head to my LH500, nothing more really. The head is used and I got it as part of a trade, so I'm not going to cry to much if it turns out to be shot!. I shant be sending it to, or going to Bass Direct, it simply isnt worth the bother. I shall swap the valve with both my spare valve, and the one in the LH500 as I know that they both work just fine for my needs, and if not, then its the cupboard of no return for the amp . I have not played/owned many amps (6 including this one), so it may be that this particular handbag amp just isn't for me, and I will have to stay with the ones I know work for me, and what I want to acheive. (it was a nice idea though)! Cheers Pete

Ah, I see, the loud clean settings are classified and available only to veteran experienced players, vague answers only to the amateurs . Looks like the shuttle shall be confined to the cupboard, then ebay/gumtree. Won't sell/trade on here as I'm unable to verify if it actually works properly or not, as no clean settings are forthcoming. It may, or maybe good, or bad, but as it stands it lacks the clean power of the LH500 by some way. No problems, things like this happen to everyone all the time. I shall have a look around, and maybe even buy another LH500 as back up. Thanks to all for their input. Mr Anderson appears to have won this thread Cheers Pete

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1338112449' post='1669660'] That clip is more about a dirty sound but it really should be able to make a clean sound, remember the Streamliner was invented because of the cleanliness of the shuttle. Try a new valve and see what's what, fully clean I could call bingo numbers through mine as clear as a bell. [/quote]Hi Pete, Yeah, I can get clean, but not clean AND loud!, the cabs go farty on me at any decent volume, but dont stress at all with the LH500 inspite of higher volumes, hence the question about settings specifically. Input and gain at noon is certainly clean but thin and master nearing 4 o clock brings not much volume, just limiting, and farting. (speakers that is !!!) chheers Pete

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1338109663' post='1669594'] watch it from nearly 7 mins on...... [/quote]Hi Pete, Ed is a bit of a legend in my house, and i could, and have watched his vids for hours. Two things though, its not the sound I'm after, I have that with the LH500, I just want to replicate that sound on the shuttle, with the same kind of volume levels, and I thought I'd ask for settings advice on that specifically, and secondly, as a mere novice, I've found it near impossible to replicate any sort of sound from video, or CD etc as that has usually been through some processing before hand, so there is no guarantee that in the actual room infront of the speaker/amp etc sounded like the sound on the video/CD etc anyway. I may change out the 12ax7 with one of a couple I have laying around, as that may clean things up higher in the volume range, otherwise its just an expensive practice amp Cheers Pete

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1338066245' post='1669303'] Hi Pete. I'm not much of an amp expert but I do gig with a Shuttle 6. I've been very happy with it's performance. I usually aim for a fairly clean sound and it always delivers. I'm using Mark Bass cabs though, which I think are voiced very differently to Hartke. Given the different cabs it''s probably irrelevant to you what my settings are. Surprised they haven't got back to you. I think the company is owned by Fender these days, don't know if that has any bearing on it. It might be worh you paying a visit to the Talk Bass Forum as one of the Genz designers is a member on there and always seems willing to answer any technical questions. [/quote] Thanks Gary, yeah, I'd thought I take a wonder over to TB (must admit the hods of answers to questions that havent been asked by "sage" people yet to have their first shave has so far put me off, maybe a wild generalisation though ), I think the guys name is Agedhorse? Cheers Pete

[quote name='Highfox' timestamp='1338065918' post='1669297'] The shuttle 6.0 does do loud and clean imo especially at 4ohms . (Never had a Hartke so can't compare) Stl 6.0 can be a little low/thin on bass, but hit the LF switch and your sorted. Never found it to under power running 2x12 at 4 Ohms. [/quote] Hello Highfox, Thanks for the reply, as per the question, do you have specific control settings for the shuttle? thanks Pete

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1331414473' post='1572699'] Alternative take, volume, tone and 3 way toggle switch, lower P pickup to gain reasonable balance. These days I find I want basses without volume and tone controls, just use hands, tone for me always full up, seems muffled otherwise. If really keen get multiway rotary switch a la Gibbo EB3, pad p bass back with resistors of varying amounts. [/quote]Hmmm, I think you may be onto something here. Maybe I should manage my expectations a bit more, and learn to drive it without the aid of abs, airbags, esp etc (to use a motoring analogy). So Im off to set my watch back 30 years! Cheers Pete

[quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1330804560' post='1563323'] If you are still 'adjusting' the nut remember to cut with a slope down toward the headstock as you need the 'witness point' at the very front edge of the groove. The lack of this is the cause of many intonation problems. I've used CTS pots in the past with no probs. Sometimes, when you have a slight fret buzz further down the neck, a very slight release of truss-rod tension will fix it. An easy way to cut volume is to buy a decent tuner pedal that cuts the volume when stood on - you can check your tuning too - the step on it again to go. G. [/quote]Hi Geoff, Thanks for the info on cts pots, Im thinking that these will do nicely, and after going over my set up again the buzz has gone (maybe I missed something, or didnt allow enough "settling in time".With regards to the pedal idea, I was more thinking of a bass wiring solution rather than yet more things in the external signal path. Most work is done at a theatre and if we are on stage we tend to use wireless packs as the amp could be anywhere, or even not there at all, and if we are upstairs in the band room then I plug straight into a rack mount pod and go straight through front of house. In anycase we use in ear monitoring and personal roland mixers for track/click/bandmember levels. Yes I know the pod has a tuner/mute function but Im not always near it. so a single volume/blend would be easiest for me I think. I used for reference the 4 videos on youtube by john carruthers/elixir for set up routine including nut cutting in. I find these vids very clear and easy to understand but Im sure there are others that more experienced BCers will recommend . Sorry for the late reply but am at the theatre all week, and replying on my phone is such a faff!! Many thanks again and if you know of a way to balance out the pups with no loss at centre detent so I can use a single vol knob then please let me know. Cheers Pete

Well, progress of sorts, 1) graphtech 1214 nut installed, and intonation problems have pretty much diasppeared, yay! 2) a very slight buzz on the E string around frets 10-14, has me puzzled, Im not the gentlest player, but the buzz disappears the nearer the bridge pup I play. Im struggling to find a comfortable position for playing between the P and J pups, seems like no mans land, so I may have to raise the E string a bit, and learn to play more gently whilst having no where to anchor my thumb (except the P pup, which is too far forward for comfort ) 3) very careful and gentle fileing of the bottom of the bridge grub screws has given a more stable saddle movement, but I still think I will change the bridge for one with a smoother action, (probably Babicz ) 4) I mainly play in theatre pit at the moment, so I may hang on to the Vol/Pan/Tone arrangement, as there are extended periods of non playing, and its much easier to just kill one Vol pot for these times, than to kill two, and have to set them up again each time (assuming that both arent full on). This is why my Spector doesnt get used for pit work. This being the case, is there any gizmo, or set up that will minimize volume dip, when the pan pot is at centre? So Good, and bad to report, however, Im still really enjoying the whole passive thing, and each day sees the set up get closer to my ideal. If you have any advice, or similar experiences please tell all, the P J bass is a strange fruit, in terms of trying to balance pups of different type, output, shape, and location, and every time I think Ive cracked it I notice another balance problem!!! . So guys trade secrets, and magical cures all welcome. Cheers Pete

Thanks Geoff, and Al. I shall digest these wise words and then proceed, hopefully with great results! Ive never cut a nut before, but its not my working bass, so I can afford to really take some time over it. The bass wasnt expensive (its the bottom of the range tanglewood/ overwater classic J (although its actually a P/J ) Strings are new slinkys (use em on all basses, coz I like em!) Im hoping that the nut, and bridge replacement will sort out minor intonation issues (cross string vibration, maybe, cheap saddles skating around the bridge plate, and contact with each other). Geoff, you mention changing pots, I was going to do this anyway, as the soon to be replaced pan pot has a centre detent, and I wont need that for pup volume. Can you recommend any pots in particular? Al, Im hoping intonation issues arent a result of misplaced frets, as intonation is fine on G and D strings. We shall see! Am really enjoying the sound of the stock cheap pups soloed, and once Ive converted to V V T, and replaced pots, nut, and bridge, I should hopefully have a cracking bass for still not alot of dosh, and also some satisfaction of my handywork in there to boot! I really appreciate the advice, and if any out there has more advice/opinion, then Id be glad to hear it. Many thanks Cheers Pete

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Hartke hx112 neo plus switchable tweeter. pound shop looks, but decent sound 300w, AND SWITCHABLE impedance from 4 to 8 ohms! Cheap too. Cheers Pete