gary mac

Great pics. Don't super glue those strap pins though, wood glue and wooden dowels, cocktail sticks or even matchsticks, is the way to do it.

There weren't enough punters to start a fight

Friday night, we had the sort of pub gig that makes me want to retire

Just when I thought Steve Wright couldn't get any more on my nerves

Team effort matey.

Hopefully peace and calm has been restored dear boy.

These are great basses. Great result for you Just hope the neck is ok.

Same here mate

I do own a TC BH250 that I keep as a spare, however, having attempted to repair another TC head for a customer, I have to agree with @lownote12. Out of warranty they are a pain and costly to repair.

Play a pre CBS P or J bass and you will understand

If you are confident that the one you're looking at, is all original and everything functions as it should, then you almost certainly won't be disappointed. I've owned a 66, 63 and a 62, each and everyone was exceptionally good. The timber used on the fretboards is rather lovely, bodies are generally light and resonant. The pickups deliver plenty of punch and can do mellow/warm to full on aggressive attack.

Micromesh is my choice as well. Also great for fret polishing.

Glad that you survived it Bilbo and hope you've made a good recovery. Sad that Arthur didn't

Nice one EBS, enjoyed that.

Happy to take a look at it Dave, if it's only one fret, can soon get that sorted for you.

I was in Tenerife last week and watching a band, their bass man committed the same sin and then played slap bass during the solo

If you are confident in removing the neck, it would be worth checking that the neck pocket is clean and debris free , so that the neck can be seated properly in the pocket.

Was this problem there from day one? Assuming it was but keeping in mind that it can be difficult to diagnose without actually seeing the instrument, up close. If you definitely have the relief and string height/action otherwise correct, then I would suspect that the frets from around the 14th onwards, require levelling with a slight fall away. A job I have had to do on a fair few customer's instruments. Fairly straightforward with the correct tools and a careful approach, if you have neither, then take it to a guitar tech/luthier.

Just watched all of those, thanks Trevor.

What a brilliant effort

I've had this book for a few weeks now and thought it was about time to write a little review. I have to say that it is very impressive and is the sort of information that I wished I had taken on board much earlier in life. Of course there were books on theory, back in the seventies when I started playing but I found them difficult (at the time) to comprehend and just not user friendly. The colour system is a very useful tool and for a beginner an ideal way for visualising and getting to know the fret board. For me, the sections covering modes and scales were of particular interest. I've been playing in bands for years, but without much knowledge of theory. Of course I've been using scales and modes but for the most part, not knowing why and instead relying on my ears and experience to know what works and what doesn't. The relevant chapters give a concise, easily understandable insight in to this subject. The book is ideal to dip in and out of, which is the way I approached it. Mostly I read it with my bass to hand, as for me, this helped to make sense of and to absorb the information. All in all I thoroughly recommend this as a worthwhile purchase. Great for beginners and even experienced players who just want a better understanding of music theory. Alex is a Basschat affiliate and therefore forum members get a discount. Details in the link below:

This thread could get messy but I won't be here to see it for a while, as mrs mac is dragging me out shopping

That's a beauty.