pete.young

I've never used one in a bass, never needed to, but for other things Eneloop can't be beaten IMHO.

Great news that you're gigging again. Who with - can we come and watch please?

If you have a low signal from your DB, you might find that a pre-amp will restore the level to something that the amp can usefully amplify.

Interesting twist - following an audition last night it looks as though I'm going to be in two different bands, each of which has a member with the same name, but they are not the same person.

My Epiphone Century Deluxe is 42mm at the nut and 56mm at the 12th fret. It's fairly deep too. String spacing is 18mm at the bridge.

I'm sure the royalties were some consolation.

Looks like 1988 from the serial number. I've got 3 and none of them have bridges like that, but mine are all 91 or later.

Just play the D an octave above. Nobody in the audience will be able to hear the difference.

They're great amps which sound mighty through virtually any decent quality speaker. Mine sounds fantastic through my Monza. Slightly too big to look right, but hey!

Not playing, but I fell asleep during a dive in the Red Sea once - Woodhouse reef, just drifting along in the current 15 metres down. Someone else's depth alarm woke me up.

2 old-time banjos, 3 tenor banjos, 3 bouzoukis, 2 guitars and 2 Weissenborns. That's the middle shelf. There's an accordion on the bottom shelf too.

According to the manual the amp expects a momentary switch and doesn't mention a latching switch, so I assumed that wasn't an option. After I posted I read the data sheet, and you're right - connect D to Q bar. The switches I have are DPDT so I think I wire one side to the output and one side to the LED circuit. The other question is what to do about syncing with the state of the amp. The Bright Onion has a sync switch which changes the LED without affecting the output,

Does anyone have any thoughts, or maybe even a circuit diagram, for adding a status LED to a momentary footswitch? I have a pair of momentary footswitches that I'm using to change the channel and mute on my EA Doubler but some indication on the switch would be handy. I could buy a dual footswitch pedal from Bright Onion for 65 quid, but it should be possible to build one for less. I was obviously thinking about this problem a while ago, because I've just come across a couple of flip-flop ICs (SN74HC74N) in a drawer, and I can't think of any other reason I'd have bought them. I found a schematic which seems to do what i want to do, I guess I use the footswitch for the clock and just connect D to VCC instead of having another switch? http://sullystationtechnologies.com/icdflipflop.html

I've recently put this together to allow me to switch between double bass (using the EDB1) and bass guitar (the DHA VT1 Pro). The strange blue lump is a box with 3 momentary switches and one locking switch which I built for a Roland AC60. I'm using half of it to change channel and mute the amp, an EA Doubler. I really need to build a 2-switch box in a 1590A to get the size down a bit. I could use both amp channels, but I only want one tuner, compressor, and high pass filter. EDB1 runs on internal batteries since the power bank only has one 12V output, though I guess I could run the DHA at 9V. Cables are a mess. What do people recommend for a more compact solution with the right lengths? I'm wary about the solderless ones because we have a guitarist who has no end of trouble with them, but maybe that's because he is a guitarist. The Becos is an amazing compressor but I'm having a tough time finding a power cable with a long enough plug. Most are too short to work at all. I have a Maplin one but it falls out occasionally and I've taped it in place. Also, if anyone has a flip-flop circuit to fit an LED to a momentary switch I'd be very glad of it.

That's a good endorsement @Al Krow. Does the Core octave have the same 'Range' capability to only operate on lower frequencies that the OC5 and OC3 does?