pete.young

Good choice, I was going to suggest the g30 I have one and it works fine with my P retro.

You'd be surprised, I got one into my Austin A.30 !

[quote name='andydye' timestamp='1407221796' post='2518392'] hhmmm, not so good for speedy guitar changes mid-set then... I've seen the hercules double stands and they look good, not cheap, but good, I've used the single grab stand for years and they're great. I wonder how stable the double will be when there's only one bass on there? One problem I had with the herc stuff was the width of the jaws being unsuitable for some 5'ers and most 6'ers I tried on there...not a problem for me anymore as I'm back to the 4 string p bass for just about everything [/quote] I have the double and it is very stable with only one bass on it, even when the bass is reasonably heavy (like a BBNE2). Dunno about 6'ers but mine had no problems with a TRB5P which has a pretty wide neck. It's a great bit of kit and I'd replace it with another if anything happened to it.

Our guitarist has a 2U rack drawer in the bottom of his rack with a few pedals in.

Why not add another 2x10, if you like the sound of it?

If KiOgon can't help, you could try Martin Owen at Owen Electronics. He fixed a similar problem with a chorus pedal for me, postal turn around was quick and charges were reasonable. http://www.owenelectronics.co.uk/

I bought a second hand Carlo Giordano electric violin off eBay for about 45 quid and it has done the job admirably for our pogues tribute band with very loud drummer. It has a built in preamp we plug it straight into the desk.

It looks remarkably similar to this one: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/241620-bass-mods-7-string-jazz-bass-with-hard-case-kent-armstrong-pickups/

I could use some pointers to troubleshoot a non-working pedal. Pedal is a PedalParts Blue Fool MXR Blue Box clone. Everything is in the right place, electrolytic is in the right way round, ICs ditto . Diodes check out with my multimeter so haven't been fried. Wired it up without the foot switch so the circuit is permanently on and tried it with a guitar and amp. Signal is very weak but just about audible, so quiet that it's hard to tell if there's any distortion or not. I'm guessing there's a dry joint somewhere, but nothing looks wrong to my not-very-well trained eye. I have the link to the audio probe at diy-fever.com from earlier in this thread and I will build one. Is the capacitance value in the probe critical? I have some spares but not the exact value as used in the diagram of the probe. Any other helpful tips for dealing with it, particularly to tell if there is a problem with the ICs?

A G7 capo is expensive on the face of it, but worth every penny. It's the only one Ive ever come across that doesn't seem to affect the tuning of a guitar.

We all make mistakes from time to time, however long we've been playing and however much we practice. I find it helps to recognise that, not to dwell on mistakes, just let them go, smile and move on to the next phrase, keep the disruption to a minimum. If it pigeon craps on your head, there's no point reaching for the toilet paper - it'll be miles away before you can wipe it's bum!

Some useful info on fender Japan serial numbers can be found in a thread called Quick Fender Japan Question on this forum. I can't work out how to cut and paste the URL on this poxy tablet, sorry. If it's an A plus 6 digit MIJ it's 85-86. If CIJ, its 99-02. The best way to be sure is to take the neck off and see if it is dated. Not that it matters, it looks like a great bass in n very good condition for a very decent price. Well done.

A doorstop, the kind you screw into the floor, has been known to work well, depends what size your endpin is.

Sometimes you get a bit more clarity with a tapered b string.

Bought my old MS60B back from Cliff - another pleasant and excellent transaction, and he's taken very good care of it over the last few months! Thanks Cliff.

Looks like a mahogany neck. Chances are that the two broken halves will mesh back together and can be glued and clamped. I've got a mandolin which has had this repair, though it was done by a proper luthier, and it's fine. You will need to take off all the furniture, the truss rod cover and the headstock veneer in order to get the two halves to mesh together properly. I'd have to say that a skip is the correct place for an EKO 12-string, with or without a cracked headstock :-)

What's this doing in General Discussion? Seems to me that it belongs in off-topic.