pete.young

The instructions about this weren't very clear: I thought it worked like a 'like' button for individual posts and I didn't realise that the scores were being accumulated. This is very confusing: I'd like to reserve the right to disagree with someone's opinion on one subject, whilst still respecting their reputation. Or vice versa. There's another comment from Hamster about it being introduced in an attempt to make people behave more reasonably in off-topic. Is it possible to just activate the reputation for off-topic? I think it's a bit much to inflict it on the whole site, just because one tiny set of people in Off-Topic can't behave. I'd rather see individuals banned or Off-Topic removed altogether. Personally I think it should go. It doesn't improve anything, it's not clear how to use it, and we've managed fine without it for several years.

[quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1321309971' post='1437757'] As for measuring the fret height, I've been using the extending shaft of a vernier gauge as a depth gauge for one or two goes. I don't want to continue with this however, as I suspect this may damage the tool in the long run ? Any ideas here ? [/quote] I think it's unlikely you'll damage the tool, although you might mark the fretboard if you're unlucky. One way: capo on fret x, capo on fret x+2, measure the distance between the fretboard and the bottom of the string in between frets x and x=1 with feeler gauges. Or drill bits. There shouldn't be that much variation if the frets are in good condition.

+1 to Gilmour's comments about the stands. The one in my Equinox set had plain nuts fitted which swiftly unscrewed themselves, making the whole thing a bit rickety. I went down to B&Q and bought some Nyloc nuts which have improved matters no end.

If it's the same as the EA350, you've blown a surface mount I/C on the pre-amp circuit. It's replaceable if you can find someone who is really good at soldering and has a very steady hand!

I could be wrong, but I think EBS heads provide 9v phantom power.

My respect for Eric Johnson went down a notch or two when I heard that he thinks he can tell which brand of battery is in his effects pedals.

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1321275348' post='1437138'] Cheers for the link Pete, I KNEW I'd read about LED lights somewhere, but was checking talkbass site doh! [/quote] No worries. We've gained a bit more experience using ours since then. We usually take two and use however many we've got room for, linked together with XLR cables. Even if you don't have DMX this allows you to control both sets with one foot controller. I'd say it's worth sticking with the same brand. The Equinox pre-sets are different to the KAM ones, so if you scroll through you don't get the same lighting patterns. I managed to break the footswitch socket on the Equinox, so I can report that they're easy to dismantle to change components. There are additional positions on the top of the bar for adding more lights, or the odd laser. The KAM units are slightly more expensive but I think worth it: the T-bar hinges in the middle, so they're easier to cram into corners of rooms, and pack up slightly smaller than the Equinox units which go into a case the size of a bass flight case.

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/152473-band-lighting/page__p__1357216__hl__led__fromsearch__1#entry1357216

Well somebody must like 'em - this '64 one, in what looks like very nice condition but with duff electrics sold for £430 ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290628672884?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I had one just like this as my first bass, and if I'd know it would be worth this much I might just have kept it. Mine had low-tension black nylon strings on, which are probably something you should consider if you can get the action back down again. I don't think modern high-tension steel core strings do these old axes too many favours.

I've been sent a copy, and it's a huge excel spreadsheet - not really suitable for posting in this thread. Why do people find it so difficult to follow a simple request and send Darren an email? I'd offer to forward it to interested parties, but I didn't keep a copy and it's now gone from the 'trash' folder. Sorry.

Another question - do the FX run all the time, or do you switch them on and off? If the latter, there might be some volume issues (I am assuming here that the clean sound on it's own needs to be about as loud as clean plus FX).

[quote name='silverfoxnik' timestamp='1320940674' post='1433515'] I have considered whether a 212 guitar combo might do the trick actually but was worried about whether one would have enough power [/quote] I guess that depends on your 2x12 guitar combo - my Burman Pro 2000 will certainly give your H&K 600 a run for it's money volume-wise and might even be louder! Why not try taking a feed off your effects loop as Ian suggests and go into the PA via the effects unit(s)? That would get you out of carting another rig, and PAs work pretty well with full range signals like keyboards.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1320860723' post='1432466'] The S&M unit by [sfx] is excellent ... but I don't think it will drive two separate rigs. [/quote] It won't - I guess I got rather ahead of myself there in anticipating what Nik is trying to achieve. Personally I'm not sure whether the sound difference between having a blend through a single rig and a completely separate system would be (a) worth the trade-off in carting more gear and ( b ) noticeable in the context of a live gig. (Stupid blarsted editor, won't let me put ( followed by b followed by ) without spaces or it turns into some inane icon!)

If your amp is like my Markbass, the effects loop is parallel, meaning that you get a blend of clean signal and whatever's in the effects loop. No way to control the ratio of clean:effected though. SFX make a pedal which will allow you to blend a clean signal with whatever effects you want, or switch them off altogether: http://www.sfxsound.co.uk/mainpage.asp?page=sm

+1 for what Platypus said. Tecamp will know whether it's under warranty or not from the serial number. I sent my out-of-warranty Puma 110 back for a replacement driver and the charges weren't extortionate, although with hindsight I wish I'd done it myself. I emailed [email protected] and got a very swift reply back from Juergen. I have contact details if you need them, PM me.

Bought some strings from Tom - everything went smoothly, great guy to do business with. Recommended

CrazyKiwi's Pedulla Pentabuzz with Alembic bits'n'pieces.

Aria fretless with maple board. I had one like this with a lined rosewood board, really nice bass. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aria-Pro-II-Fretless-Bass-Guitar-Good-Condition-New-Strings-/130594646447?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1e680c29af Another Aria, possibly late 70's? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bass-guitar-used-/180748297839?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2a1570266f

I see. Thanks for the explanation, much appreciated.

Looking at my message inbox, I see that some of the conversations have been flagged as 'deleted', with a little red icon. Would anyone care to explain to me what the significance of this is, or tell me where I can go and read about it?

Hm. I just went through to the checkout without the self-signed certificate warning. Loooking at the cert, it appears to be issued to www.inlaystickers.com by GeoTrust, which is verified by Firefox (though whether it's secure is another argument!) Maybe try it again and see if you get the same certificate presented?