pete.young

Another vote for the EBS 2x12 Neo. It handles anything I throw at it with aplomb, it works equally well with Burman and Markbass heads, it handles the V-Bass synthesiser sounds brilliantly, punches through the band sound and is unfeasibly light. It has a slight mid-scoop but you can eq that back in if you don't happen to like it (I do).

Hibernian Rhapsody by De Dannan. Insanely brilliant.

Ry Cooder. 3 pages of thread and not one mention? Honourable second place to Rory Gallagher. RIP.

Not on the bay and no pictures, but does anyone know anything about an acoustic guitar maker called Sagadia? A shop local to me has a '70s six string, looks like a 000 Martin copy with nice binding etc.

EA VL110s are great for this, not least because they have a woofer, a mid-range driver and a tweeter and I presume a 3-way crossover - you can adjust the balance of tweeter and midrange driver.

Torres [url="http://www.torresamps.com/"]http://www.torresamps.com/[/url] has some nice looking kits and you can even go on a course to learn to build something.

I think it's great that you've given people an opportunity to give you their views. I'm not sure how well it will work. I suspect people like this won't care where they advertise their stuff, so if they can't post in ebay it will clutter up for sale, or general discussion, or wherever. Then you need to decide whether to leave the clutter, or police it and clear out the listing adverts (more work for the mods). And as others have suggested, it would be trivial for someone to create a thread, plus 1 it 49 times and away they go. Automating this is trivial with HTML testing tools, which are freely available. I think you would be better off creating a group for people to advertise their ebay listings with no posting limit, which will free up the current group for people to discuss listings (which you could then put a limit of number of postings on to keep out the riff-raff). This won't achieve your other objective of providing a resource for drive-bys with no interest in the forum. I don't see an easy answer to that.

Is there a relationship between string spacing too? I like a wider spacing for 5-string basses, and my TRB5P is the most comfortable 5-er I've ever played - it has a flat neck, a wide string spacing and an almost flat fingerboard (23"). I dont' know the radius of my Bass Collection (how can you measure it?) but that's pretty wide and flat too. Conversely I moved on my G&L2500 because the string spacing was too narrow and the fingerboard/neck too round and radiused.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='1089884' date='Jan 14 2011, 09:38 PM']Those BBNEII basses are very special indeed, gorgeous sounding and feeling. Too expensive outside Japan though.[/quote] That's what, a 2 hour flight for you? I think a shopping trip is in order :-)

[quote name='BB2000' post='1088292' date='Jan 13 2011, 04:55 PM']It is a very nice example. I set it up for the last owner a few months back - the chap he bought if from obviously hadn't used it for years, and there was such a bow in the neck I had my boubts that it would actually straighten. It had the original Yamaha leather strap as well, which you don't see very often. It's a bit annoying how this seller implies that he's had this bass for years, and is only selling because he can't live on his pension etc. when he obviously bought to resell. Potential buyers won't be aware of that since you can now only search for completed listing less that 15 days old - it used to be several months.[/quote] I saw the original listing and thought it was a fair price in the prevailing market conditions. Now if it were a late 70's Fender in that condition, it would go for 2 - 3 times the inflated amount, so you could argue it's still a bargain!

[quote name='icastle' post='1088089' date='Jan 13 2011, 02:52 PM']... anything with a 1/4" jack involved was bound to have at least a modicum of intelligence attached to one end of it...[/quote] Like a guitarist, you mean?

Curse you Jack, you've reminded me again of the Coronado IV I wish I'd never sold. Next time I see you I'm going to kick your bad ankle :-)

I've been noticing this on and off for the last couple of days too. 15-20 seconds delay to load random pages and 'waiting for basschat.co.uk' displayed in the status bar. Doesn't sound a lot, but it's not happening anywhere else.

[quote name='DanOwens' post='1083015' date='Jan 9 2011, 11:41 AM']And Ped, accordingly to the websites and manuals I've read, both the GR20 and V-Bass MIDI-Out can be used to control external devices: [url="http://cms.rolandus.com/assets/media/pdf/GR20WS03.pdf"]PDF regarding GR20's use with external sequencers[/url] and the VB-99 has a 'Bass-to-MIDI feature'. Dan[/quote] The later VB-99 might have Midi out, but the earlier V-Bass does not. Midi output is pretty much limited to dumping configurations, as Ped says.

[quote name='doctor_of_the_bass' post='1079340' date='Jan 5 2011, 11:24 PM']Can't make this sadly as its my last day in panto![/quote] Oh no it isnt!!!!!!!

In answer to Owen, no, I've never done anything like this, I've always stuck with the GK3-B. Matt Golgotha's thread about his Midi Jazz has some good information though [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=50068&st=0"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=50068&st=0[/url]

[quote name='deepbass5' post='1075660' date='Jan 2 2011, 08:01 PM']M Bass Player Mag did run a comparison on speaker cone equivalents which was interesting, with reference surface area and moving air.[/quote] It seems to me that this is meaningless. In order to know the volume of air that a driver moves, you also need to know how far the cones move, which is going to be specific to individual drivers.

[quote name='BassBus' post='1075163' date='Jan 2 2011, 11:56 AM']You could put the pickup anywhere on the body you choose but at the risk of more latency.[/quote] The Roland instructions say that the pickup should be positioned at most 50mm from the bridge, which rules out putting it inbetween the pickups. Not sure why, but I think it's more likely to be related to ghost notes than latency issues. The further away from the bridge you get, the closer the various harmonic points of the string get and there is a possibility that these might fool the pickup into sensing the wrong frequency. The Streamline clip is very interesting - that shouldn't work according to Roland! I will do some experiments if I have time, although my GK3-B is screwed onto the bass so moving it about is a bit of a pain.

[quote name='uncle psychosis' post='1060596' date='Dec 16 2010, 02:28 PM']They're run by one of the regulars over at the musicradar.com forum. I haven't built any of the kits myself but a few of the guys over there have done so and all seem happy with the results. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cN_ouc6GZCE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cN_ouc6GZCE[/url][/quote] Well, I went for the diypedalkits clean boost pedal. It was expensive for a kit, but had the advantage of having the casing pre-drilled, something which I'm not really tooled up to make a decent job of. It works really well - I've posted a review in the reviews section here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=116827"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=116827[/url]

I've just spent a couple of hours building my first pedal and I thought a review was in order, in case anyone else fancies a punt at it. The pedal I chose is a Clean Boost pedal from http://www.diypedalkits.com/ in a very small housing, which I needed because of limited pedal board real estate. After a slight hiatus caused by Xmas post and bad weather (during which time Kevin offered to send me another kit because of the wait, most generous), here's what arrived: This was quite an expensive kit, but came with all the holes in the casing pre-drilled. Since I don't have a bench drill this was a worthwhile saving of effort. The kit included comprehensive instructions. The PCB which does the work is based on veroboard - here it is under construction: Here's the completed board with the pot soldered in place. Spot the deliberate mistake - the transistor (the black lump on 3 legs in the middle of the board) was too high and I had to remove it, clean up the tracks and fix it back in place as close to the veroboard as possible. Space is a bit tight fitting this into a micro housing, and the transistor was taking up space that would be needed by the DC power socket. Doh. Here's the switch being wired up: While all this was going on, I decided to save myself a fiver by painting the case myself, using spray cans with car primer and top coat that I had lying around in the garage. Here's the case inbetween top coats: Finally, you need to fix the other components (jack sockets, LED, etc) in place and solder them up. With everything connected, you can see there's not much room: Finally, here it is all assembled, velcroed and fitted to my pedal board (which gives you an idea of scale). What does it sound like? Well, it's a clean boost! This design is apparently a copy of the Zvex Super Hard On, down to the authentic crackly pot. It does deliver a lot of boost (said to be in the range of 20Db!), but virtually all the action is in the last 60 degrees of the pot. I'm not sure if that's normal or due to some duff assembly work!

The pickup is actually 13mm wide at it's widest point. It won't fit on my TRB5P unfortunately, but it's such a good bass I bought it anyway!

A Status fretless probably sounds like a nice fretless, but it won't sound like an upright bass. Depends what you're looking for.

If the East Anglia bash happens, and we both get there, you are welcome to try mine! Sorry Jack, no soundclips yet. I'll see if I can persuade the young master to record a couple while he and the firepod are in the house. There are some interviews with VB-99 users on the Roland website www.rolandus/community/insider but they're a bit heavy on waffle and a bit light on actual soundclips.