pete.young

[quote name='Higgie' post='692018' date='Dec 23 2009, 02:33 AM']Ok so my notation skills aren't perfect, I found it really hard to replicate the feel in the score, but as far as I can tell the notes are right, so you should be able to match them to the song and nail the feel by your self! This is all I could knock up since my last post, and is from when the bass enters, up to the first chorus Hope it helps, may finish it off tomorrow if I get time![/quote] Nice work Higgie. Hearing that bassline really was a 'stop the car by the side of the road and listen in wonder' moment for me. What software did you use to notate this, if you dont' mind me askin' ?

Jakesbass is right , the melody is mostly based around the E harmonic minor scale. Those were bass notes by the way, not chords - the D# - F# notes are over a B chord. If you want to improve your ability to pick up songs by ear, I'd say the most important thing to work on is recognising intervals. Key signatures seem to be out of fashion with a lot of modern arrangers - I'm seeing a lot of recent brass band stuff which is written in the same key throughout the piece but which modulates through several other keys, written with a lot of accidentals rather than a key change.

A decent pair of side cutters and a delicate touch.

Portrait of Tracy - just kidding :-) Addicted to Love fits this particular bill quite nicely.

[quote name='chris_b' post='684428' date='Dec 14 2009, 08:21 PM']I don't understand how you could find the Vintage lacking in lows! I played my Lakland and Thunderfunk through 2 Compacts at the SE Bass Bash and everyone standing within 6 feet had their rib cages vibrating when I hit the lower notes![/quote] +1. I played my 5-string G&L Tribute through my puny old-school Burman 100W all valve amp and Merton's Vintage at the SE bass bass, and there was plenty of volume, no loss of lows and no question of the low B getting quieter - if anything it got louder.

[quote name='BurritoBass' post='683491' date='Dec 13 2009, 10:23 PM']but that mandolin tune he did recently (Dance Tonight) showed he still has something to offer.[/quote] For me that 'mandolin tune' was convincing proof that Macca had nothing else to offer. It takes all sorts. I have no idea why he got involved with this charade, but hey - it's McCartney, why would he care what anyone thinks?

[quote name='neilb' post='680595' date='Dec 10 2009, 07:58 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320459736595#description"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...595#description[/url] IMHO, the stock looks sus from the photo,thats not a MIM logo from any era.[/quote] Hmm, did Vintage (the company) ever make a Precision copy?

Aria RSB Pro II Deluxe 5 - anyone here get this? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140364278552"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=140364278552[/url]

[quote name='Protium' post='677241' date='Dec 7 2009, 09:33 PM']Another idea - is there enough juice from the power supply (in terms of mA) to power all the pedals?[/quote] I thought so, but apparently not! The DC Brick supposedly has an output of 1000 mA. But, read the small print. The maximum current it will deliver to all the 9V outlets is a puny total of 375 mA. The adaptor for the G5 is rated at 600mA, so I think you guys have hit the nail on the head. I'll try running the G5 on it's own power supply and run the rest of the board off the DC brick and see where that takes me. Shoulda bought a Diago! Many thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated.

I think this is a very fine-looking and rather special guitar. The guitarseholes (thank you whoever came up with that gem) on MusicRadar have no idea.

[quote name='Paul_C' post='676273' date='Dec 6 2009, 10:59 PM']I like them . . .[/quote] Like? I seem to recall you had about 14 of them, including the lovely Miki Furokawa sig. I had a blue SBV500 for a while, they're decent sounding well-made and unusual basses and this one looks as though it will go for next to nothing.

I've been having some problems with my pedal board recently and have been trying to find the source of the trouble. Pedal arrangement is like this: Korg DT10 -> EBS Multicomp -> Double bypass loop -> Amp Loop 1: EBS Octave -> Bass Big Muff -> Korg G5 analog synth Loop 2: Boss C5 chorus Power is provided by a Dunlop DC Brick. All pedals are 9V except for the chorus, which is 18V. All the cables are relatively new. The problem is when I switch in loop 1, I have an intermittent drop in gain. Sometimes none at all, sometimes 50% , sometimes complete silence. I don't think the problem is with the Bypass loop pedal - there's essentially nothing in it except for switches, which either work or not. This got me thinking about the power supply voltages so I whipped out the multimeter - 9V outputs are giving 8.7V, 18V outputs are giving 16.5V . The DC Brick wall wart puts out a nominal 18V which goes straight through to the 18V outputs. I stumbled across another 18V transformer - output 23 V. The 9V transformer that came with the G5 puts out - 14.4 Volts ! So how sensitive are these pedals to voltage drop? I admit I'd be thinking about changing a battery that read only 8.7 volts. Comments, questions, thoughts?

Played support to these guys earlier this year: [url="http://www.jonbyjovi.com/"]http://www.jonbyjovi.com/[/url] Nice people, good act and 'Jon' really does look like Jon.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='674864' date='Dec 5 2009, 12:18 PM']An interesting challenge would be to see how a Barefaced cab survives a 6' drop compared to a standard cab - I suspect the lighter cab is likely to suffer less damage.[/quote] We used to do that with PCs. Drop each one from a height of 6 feet onto the workbench, and measure the size of the dent. It's called 'benchmarking' ;-)

If you were to move on one of the Ashdown cabs you'd be able to stretch to an EBS Neo 2x12 , which seem to go through this forum occasionally around the £400 mark. I have one of these, Kiwi has 2 and we both rate them very highly - loads of bass, plenty of punch with a slight mid-scoop which you could EQ back in. Weight is 24Kgs which is an easy one-hand lift for most people.

I used my Puma 110 combo for a gig on Thursday night (The Bull, Colchester for anyone who knows it), with an EA VL110 as an extension cab. Tried to take a picture but my crappy cameraphone failed to do a decent job. Band is a 5-piece covers band with a reasonably enthusiatic drummer. We weren't massively loud and the Tecamp had plenty of power with some in reserve. The second cab makes a big difference to the lower frequencies and gave me a nice full rounded sound. Modern kit is amazing!

How about reducing the interval to 30 seconds or less? That would still stop automated posting but make it less likely that normal users would be caught out by it. I agree with Beedster, it is a slight irritation especially if you've only got a few moments to check the forum.

[quote name='jonnyj' post='671544' date='Dec 1 2009, 08:53 PM']Who is Pete Hook?[/quote] Good grief! Even I know that one. Try googling 'Joy Division' or 'New Order'. noel27 I could be wrong but I thought that the original BBs were the BB800 and BB1000 in 1978, neither of which was neck-through.

[quote name='Finbar' post='671404' date='Dec 1 2009, 06:44 PM']Looking to find a box big enough to pack a speaker cab in for shipping it with a courier. Dimensions of the cab are roughly 635x440x440, so it needs to fit that at least, and preferable a little bigger so i can add some stuff in at the sies as a shock absorber. Anyone know where I can get one? Preferably double walled. I can only find packs of 10 online which end up costing like 30/40 quid when I only want one! If anyone has one spare, I'd gladly pay for it Or... other suggestions for packaging a cab? [/quote] Go down to your local cycle shop. They will be slinging out an excellent selection of large (if flat) cardboard boxes on a daily basis, 2 or 3 of which can be cut and fixed back together to package the biggest of cabs.

My 30 years of engineering experience say don't ever use a stud extractor - the chances of them breaking is extremely high and when they do you are 100 times worse off than you were when you started. The only sure way I've come across to get a broken extractor out is a spark erosion machine. In this situation, the best way forward is a decent pillar drill or milling machine to drill out the old screw, starting with an accurate centre-punch into the middle of the screw and small new drill bits, increasing in size with each cut. BTW, the holes in the neck pocket should be clearance holes, not pilot holes. The screws need to screw into the neck, not into the body as well.