pete.young

Another postscript to this - my iAmp 350 stopped working again the other day, with the same symptoms. This time it turned out to be a dry joint in between the preamp and the effects return loop board, much to the relief of my amp tech who REALLY wasn't looking forward to replacing that op amp again. I'm glad to have it back again but somewhat bemused - I bought this as a backup for my supposedly unreliable 30 year old Burman valve head, which touch wood hasn't missed a beat since I got it, whereas the supposedly reliable solid-state iAmp has now failed twice for a variety of reasons. Hopefully this will be the end of it. In fairness, when it is working, it sounds fantastic. Steve, manufacturers solder ribbon cables straight onto boards because it's cheap and they can get away with it. Very poor IMHO, along with other dud techniques like soldering pots onto PCBs and sticking control knobs onto the end of pot shafts, no names but it begins with 'B' and ends with 'hringer' . Maybe you'd expect this sort of thing from the low end of the market, but EA are sold at a premium price as high-quality kit. Apologies to Dave H, who must be wondering what this twaddle is doing in his topic area. Maybe we could get one of the mods to move it into the Amps and Cabinets area?

[quote name='neepheid' post='204080' date='May 22 2008, 09:27 AM']Drilled out the two that were broken down in the hole somewhere, the drill had an existing hole to follow and drilled right into it and some metal filings later, I can fit the screw down the hole. Glue, dowel, mallet, wait, cut, sand, redrill. Unfortunately, Peaty's prediction about the drill sliding came true with the one that was flush with the surface, but I've dowelled that mistake and will have a fresh go at it later. I'm thinking about drilling a pilot hole in the middle of the screw with the dremel first, then getting the hand drill out and taking it real easy.[/quote] I'm wondering what a spark erosion machine is likely to do to wood. If it were metal stuck in metal, spark erosion is the way to go. I'd be inclined to go at this with a pillar drill and a milling cutter, or use Peaty's suggestion. I'm so glad you didn't use a screw extractor. They nearly always break, and then you are stuck with the problem of having an extremely hard broken-off stud extractor to get rid of.

[quote name='chris_pokkuri' post='203902' date='May 21 2008, 09:13 PM']i'm just trying to get an idea of what most people like to use[/quote] 4x10 + 1x15 . It's the IBM of bass rigs.

[quote name='sixshooter' post='203623' date='May 21 2008, 11:50 AM']Went into one of the shops in Denmark Street about a year ago, (may have been Hank's), looked at a 62 strat,[/quote] Probably wasn't. Hanks only do acoustics.

[quote name='Huge Hands' post='203540' date='May 21 2008, 10:05 AM']Is because of the flatwounds on both instruments?[/quote] I think as far as the upright is concerned the choice of string makes a big difference. I have Lycon on my upright which are good for bowing but rip your fingers to bits in short order. There are other strings specifically recommended for finger style with lower tension, but I can't recommend any as I haven't tried any recently. Experimenting with Upright strings is V. expensive, so good luck.

+1 to finding a good tutor. My son decided at 13 that he wanted to learn guitar, having had no joy with piano or trumpet, so we sorted out an axe, found an excellent teacher and he's never looked back - 3 years later he plays every day, is in a band with his mates from school and loves it. He's not bad on bass either! ste_m3, many congratulations on Glastonbury. That's a great achievement.

Would anyone care to comment on how the Shuttle 3 with a FET pre-amp compares to either the Shuttle 6.0 or Mark Bass kit?

'80s Aria Explorer. Or maybe not, but I think it looks nice whether it is or no. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-Custom-Explorer-Bass-80s-build-Aria-Pro_W0QQitemZ290231719902QQihZ019QQcategoryZ4713QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-Custom-Explo...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

[quote name='jamesf' post='198592' date='May 14 2008, 11:16 AM']i love the sound of EBS gear, but the cabs are just too heavy.[/quote] I don't understand this comment. My EBS 2x12 Neo is about 24 Kg, which is less than half the weight of the 4x10 it replaced.

[quote name='bubinga5' post='179641' date='Apr 18 2008, 12:06 PM']You may be aware of this site, but thought i would share! its called www.cafe press.com.. Great selection of music/bass/instrument related stuff, like t shirts mugs etc. If thats your thing..[/quote] Oh yes. [url="http://www.cafepress.com/buy/bassworld/-/pv_design_prod/pg_1/p_storeid.4153675/pNo_4153675/id_1613075/opt_/fpt_/c_666/"]http://www.cafepress.com/buy/bassworld/-/p...pt_/fpt_/c_666/[/url] Don't all rush at once!

[quote name='terryblyth' post='196809' date='May 11 2008, 11:15 PM']Fill yer boots [/quote] Excellent job Terry, that is absolutely spot-on. He's not a bad player that lad, got some nice lines.

[quote name='Russ' post='197546' date='May 12 2008, 09:43 PM']I must admit to being a little disappointed with the choice of Oliver as the musical for this year though, as the role of Nancy isn't hugely demanding from a vocal perspective.[/quote] On the other hand, there are probably more good tunes in this one musical than in ALW's entire lifetime output. Composed by Lionel Bart, who deserves a namecheck.

Jim Reed is a guitar assembler based in Italy - he makes a 5-string Fender-shape with a sort-of 24 fret neck - the fingerboard extends over the end of the neck in a kind-of curve (truss rod adjustment is done at the head end). I have a 4-string Jazz which I bought as a cheap beater. It has a really nice neck on it and Kent Armstrong pickups, so it sounds decent. There are two problems: the neck pocket is a worse fit than the panels on a Range Rover, and the curved bit over the fingerboard is pain - I keep meaning to saw mine off! [url="http://www.jimreed.it/eng/index.php"]http://www.jimreed.it/eng/index.php[/url] Good luck finding a UK dealer though. I think there's a guy who sells them on Ebay

One went through Evilbay about 8 months ago for somewhere in the region of £350 quid. I guess you either love or hate the inlays, but the bass is a Made In Japan Yamaha so a quality instrument. The new price was something like £1300 if I remember rightly. This looks like the one that was up for sale on Talkbass for $550 a couple of weeks ago. It's a neck-through, so shipping it is going to be expensive. I'd quite like one of these (the inlays work for me :-) but not at that price. Does anyone know who Michael Anthony is/was? I've never heard of him.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='194615' date='May 8 2008, 12:51 PM']Either: Just use one of the cabs? Whichever one sound best. Cost is zero. Or: Sell the cabs and buy 2x8 ohm cabs or one 4 ohm cab. Cost is lots.[/quote] Or, sell the LM2 and buy something that will run down to 2 Ohms. Even in the current climate it shouldn't be hard to shift an LM2.

[quote name='steve-norris' post='183795' date='Apr 23 2008, 01:43 PM']well it's cured! there was a bad joint on the ribbon cable which joins the input board to the preamp board,[/quote] Just spotted this thread. Glad you got it sorted. I had very similar problems with my iAmp 350 which was caused by the op-amp in the pre-amp stage failing. My local amp tech replaced it with another op-amp, a masterful piece of work given that it's about the same size as a large ant!

In The Shadows, The Rasmus . Up 2 semitones to fit the singer's vocal range.