pete.young

Effects loops run at line level voltage and are intended for rack and studio devices which do likewise. Pedals mostly run at instrument level voltage and are intended to go in before the pre-amp. They may or may not work properly in an effects loop. Suck it and see. There are exceptions: for example pre-amp pedals will usually run OK in the effects return. The other consideration is whether you have a parallel or serial effects loop. If it's parallel, you get a blend of the clean signal and the loop signal. This might not be what you are expecting. Markbass are set up this way by default but can be changed with an internal jumper to serial.

Didn't realise you could still get Cascamite. My old man used to build canoes with it, 50 years ago. Certainly is watertight!

From memory, there were two on-off switches for the pickups and two different tone settings, one bassy and one trebly. There is also a slider under the bar for overall volume. The long bar under the pickups was a finger rest. It was a push-fit into two holes at either end, and could be lifted out.

BBNE2. Stick.

RIP Dave Hall, electronics wizard and a member here.

Acoustic Workshops link is 404.

Just wondering if it is possible to enable the Bump button in the Items Wanted forum, without having to switch on the apparently troublesome replies.

I had one of those for a while, before I decided a career in Irish music beckoned and traded it for a bouzouki. Oops. Whattamistakatomaka! From what I remember it was a great sounding bass and nice to play, certainly a lot nicer than the Vox Wyman heap of stinky poo which preceded it.

I think so - I'm wondering what the alternatives to Anderwood might be for a nice Weissenborn lap steel.

Hhmmm. Don't suppose you've got any Koa in that there woodpile?

You could also pop over the road and have a pint in the Man and Scythe , which is one of the oldest and best pubs in the North West.

My parents had one of these as a PA for their folk dance band in the '70s. I'm pretty sure it ran 2 8Ohm speakers. I took it to the tip some time ago so can't confirm.

Some great information here. I think the advice to start with a six-string lap steel is spot on. I've just bought a cheap Weissenborn, inspired by seeing Martin Harley at Red Rooster, and KK is dead right that there's a lot to get to grips with just to get started.

Ha, I think we could mount quite an impressive DDOS attack using the collective equipment of basschat to build a botnet 🙂

OK, so what are you proposing?

Burns Nu-Sonic looks as though it will be fairly close: https://www.thomann.de/gb/burns_nu_sonic_bass_trans_red.htm

Oh look, it's back. Same body, same original seller. Different neck, different hardware. Beats me. Surely no-one is going to pay £1200 quid for this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FENDER-ORDER-MADE-MIJ-62-RI-JAZZ-BASS-OCEAN-TURQUOISE-GREEN-1989-FUJIGEN-MIJ-/292635312481?oid=292479277315

The key with Schaller straplocks is not to put them on the strap. Put the strap on the button and then put the straplock on over the top of the strap.

No. You would need to run it through an amplifier first - but then you could do that more easily with the line out.

You could also talk to Steve at Guitar Lodge in Felixstowe. I didn't realise it, but he advertises refinishes. I've used him for setups and a mandolin neck repair, he's a really capable guy and very pleasant to deal with. https://www.guitarlodge.co.uk

Massive +1 for Matt Schofield. Eric Gales is pretty cool too. If you prefer something a bit more acoustic, Martin Harley is great :

How about Sushi? A Yamaha SA2100 would be really close, and about 1/4 the price.

Very nice work. I congratulate you sir.

This.

I hope you had a great holiday. I'm glad you're back though, I was beginning to get withdrawal symptoms!