pete.young

Solo4682 that's basically what I did. If you need to hear yourself, you'll need some bass in a monitor that you can hear.

[quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1482431260' post='3200577'] I paid and then they phoned to say it was going for a once over (not with their advertised 'in house' luthier) and 4 days later they say "we can't get it working, the replacement pickups are expensive and hard to find - do you want a refund?". [/quote] More porkies. Aaron Armstrong does a drop in replacement for Aria pickups.

I've seen it done. The results were terrible. I can't see any point when mint condition Bass Collection SB315s are being sold on eBay for 155 quid, it would cost you that for a bridge and an extra machine head.

[quote name='karlfer' timestamp='1482322481' post='3199523'] Interesting there appears to be a bit of a resurgence in Ashdown love. [/quote] People have short memories! But have you seen the new designs for lightweight fire extinguishers ? :-) [quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1482337745' post='3199713'] not sure 3kg counts as heavy though :-) [/quote] I'm not sure why people seem to be using class A/B as a synonym for heavy, my Markbass LMII is class A/B and weighs virtually nothing.

[quote name='Tuco' timestamp='1482254863' post='3198964'] What's the pumpernickel ?? [/quote] "The Pumpernickel is a dbx160a isnpired compressor, optimized for bass players."

Anyone ever seen a DB53 before? I haven't! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Collection-DB53-5-String-Bass-Guitar/291976838297?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38661%26meid%3D9f8ffed562bc41148d5e7c7ed046acdc%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D262767734236

Why does he need a compression pedal - what problem is he trying to solve? A studio compressor will handle guitar, bass, vocals or anything else, so in that sense the bandmate is right. You can't say whether a guitar pedal will work or not. It might be fine, terrible, or have no noticeable effect. Suck it and see if it, er, sucks. Active vs Passive doesn't make a difference, and its not always true to say that basses have a higher output than a guitar - I have an electric with 18V EMGs which puts out a huge signal.

It's just a piece of shorthand. Instead of writing in a '#' sign before every individual note, it's done once in the key signature.

Somebody needs to snap up this Satin Red SB315. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262767734236?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT £155 is way too cheap!

Likewise the 2-band Nordstrand that I retrofitted to my Bass Collection. I can't imagine ever using passive mode though, the difference is night and day.

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1482237145' post='3198676'] I thought they had "tamed" it on the later ones, must have been extremely "hot" if the pad on the mixer could not tame it though. [/quote] I wondered if it was because people were plugging them into the mic preamp input rather than the line-in.

Not having this thread as a sticky is a right pain! Allt his talk of soldering surface mount components for the B3K/Vintage clones has me wondering if it's possible to socket the ICs for these designs. Anyone tried this?

The Radial Bigshot I/O is another option - I've never used one of these but it's designed to do the same thing. These, and LS2s come up for sale on the Effects For Sale forum occasionally, so you might find a second-hand one.

You might do better with a small mixer with line and audio inputs and a headphone output, such as the Behringer Xenyx 502.

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1482120115' post='3197785'] Pinched my copy from Woolies. [/quote] Now that's proper punk rock!

One good way to start is to do a search of this site, there have been a number of discussions on this subject. The basschat search function is worse than useless but something like "site:basschat.co.uk stage lighting" typed into google will give you some useful results. LED is definitely the way to go, but a DMX controller isn't needed to get you up and running, plenty of people are getting good results with just linking units together and using the default auto programs or light-to-sound that come with most units. I'd say it's more important to get units which are compatible with one another. Buying them all from the same vendor will achieve this. In particular, I've struggled to get KAM and Equinox units to talk to one another because they interpret DMX in different ways and really need a controller. Thomann has good prices, so does whybuynew.co.uk and probably also bax shop, though I haven't looked there for lighting.

[quote name='radiophonic' timestamp='1482140274' post='3197861'] Have you used one of these? Provided there is enough adjustment and there are no buffer issues, it would be a cheap solution and lose me one stomp box. 20 dB gain ought to be more than adequate - i probably need a little over 10 (the passive channel on the amp has 1/3 of the headroom of the active but the Jazz is still a bit quieter if I put one bass in each input) [/quote] Yes, it's the swiss army knife of bass pedals and can be used to do all sorts of useful things. The gain controls allow you to boost each channel by 20dB and also to cut to virtually nothing, so you should be able to achieve a balance and then adjust the input gain on your amp and run through passive or active input as necessary. You would put one bass into the return of one loop, one into the return of the other and take the output to your amp. You'll also need a spare plug or patch lead to plug into the pedal input jack in order to turn it on. You could also put one bass into the the input, but you would then lose the ability to adjust the gain for that bass and would have to use that as a reference. You could also add a clean boost to one side of the A/B box as suggested above, that would probably be even cheaper but would increase your footprint rather than reduce it.

Boss LS2 will allow you to put one bass in each loop, switch between the two and independently adjust the gain on both loops.

I said earlier that I use a Thumpinator, but I've just remembered that the Ac Bs Pre preamp in the Zoom range (B3, MS-60B and B1on) can be used as a HPF.

Nordstrand have a range of Stingray 5 replacements, including one with a 16.5mm spacing for OLP MM3 (just in case your Stingray 5 clone is one of these). Bassdirect stock them, and Delano too.

[quote name='GreeneKing' timestamp='1481983940' post='3196760'] Ooh, a B stock fire engine. Yes! [/quote] I can get you a decent price on some 'B' stock water cannons :-)

A very nice Yamaha BB800 from 1978. I'd really like to see it go for £750 - no connection with the seller, but I have an identical bass from 77/78, serial number a couple of hundred lower, and I think it would fetch about half that much on a good day! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322360476739?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1481972452' post='3196649'] Stonking, 35" inch Stingray with wide spacing, just what so many people say they want so I don't understand why these are not more popular? [/quote] That describes the MTD Artist to a T, but it didn't sound like a Stingray. What I wanted was a 34" Stingray with a wide spacing. How do you get the pickup into the right place if you change the scale length? Ok, multiply the distance from the nut by 35/34 maybe, is it going to work the same way?

[quote name='bubinga5' timestamp='1481959412' post='3196522'] Damn you all foul temptresses.!! You got me gassing for an SR5 HS now. !!Did I hear somewhere that Ernie brought out a Stingray 5 with 18/19 mm spacing.? For me that would be a deal breaker and would so go for one. [/quote] As far as I know, they are all 17.5mm and that's been the deal breaker for me. That and the hideous pick guard ☺ I had an MTD Kingston Artist 5 for a while, 19mm spacing and SR5 type pickup. That was a nice sounding bass and easy to play, but 35" scale and I didn't really get on.