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Jono Bolton
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Everything posted by Jono Bolton
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I don't know if this has been covered, I'll admit to not having read all 40 pages of the thread, but does anyone know where Limelight source their bodies and necks? Are they from Allparts or somewhere like that?
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I've seen that one before in my many googlings. It looks good, but it may be because of the 70s-style decal. Although it's not going to be vintage-accurate, in my head Burgundy Mist is a 60s colour so needs a rosewood fretboard. If they'd not switched to Pau Ferro, I'd have considered a road worn Jazz neck. I suppose I could always have a new logo applied to the 50s neck for the correct look.
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I've got this light relic Burgundy Mist P Bass body that I'm not sure what to do with. I was initially going to put my Squier SQ series P Bass neck on it, but the neck is shot so that idea's put the window. I had bought a replacement a few weeks ago that looked nice but the heel was too wide for the pocket, so that went back. I had thought about getting one of the Fender Road Worn P Bass necks to put on it, but I'm unsure if the maple and burgundy would go together or not; I always envisioned it having a rosewood fingerboard, but so far haven't been able to find anything suitable.
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When I received it, it was in a sorry state. It was originally sunburst, but had been routed for a Jazz pickup which had been filled (badly) and resprayed (also badly) in not-quite-Fiesta Red. I got it cheap and set about turning it into the beast above. There's still a slight shadow of the Jazz routing that you can only see in certain light, but David did a smashing job of sorting it all out for me. The before:
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While I would definitely not be doing the work myself, I'm erring towards this. It's a shame as it's a lovely neck, but I really can't be doing with the hassle and I've been struggling to find a guitar tech locally who would be willing to have a look at it before the time frame to return it expires.
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I recently bought a new neck to go on a guitarbuild body I have under the bed that I've been meaning to put together. I checked the measurements and the neck heel at the widest point matches the width of the pocket, but it won't fit. I'm guessing the taper of the heel doesn't quite match that of the pocket so the heel of the neck around the 18th fret is wider than the pocket by a mm or so. What's the best option here? Alter the heel? Alter the pocket? Send it back? I've tested a couple of other necks in the same body and they dropped in no problem.
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A rare dry, sunny afternoon in Glasgow so took the opportunity to try and get some better pictures of this: a Squier JV Precision, refinished in Shell Pink nitro by David Wilson. Bought on ebay and in rough shape, but plays brilliantly; the neck is truly superb. The pickup is from the Creamery, the pickguard was custom-made by a guy in Glasgow in aged white, the wiring and - I think - the bridge had been replaced before I got it. Nice light weight to it too.
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Now sold -
Yep, the top picture definitely makes it look Daphne, but if I compare the picture to the body in front of me, the colours are a fair bit apart. It's much paler in the flesh, but is a bugger to photograph properly. Sonic Blue was the colour according to Squier. Funnily enough, I always thought the Squier Vista Musicmasters were offered in Surf Green; it was only recently I found out it was actually meant to be Sonic Blue! Looks eff all like this one!
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Squier Classic Vibe Precision Bass body in Sonic Blue. This is from the first run of CV basses made in China in 2008. I had wanted one for a while and picked one up about a year ago, realised I didn't get on with the neck and sold it, then realised the replacement neck was a bit gubbed. I've decided to do something different altogether. This is in good condition, with just a few small marks/dents/chips, the worst of which are from the bridge cover so are actually concealed when the cover is fitted. There's another chip by the neck pocket where the clear top coat has gone and the original colour below shows through. This has faded a bit over the last 13 years or so, the pictures make it seem brighter than it is, but the close ups of the bridge the truest reflection of the colour. The pickguard is stock and used to be white but has faded to a cream colour. It's still white under the tug bar. This has been modified to take a standard bridge; the stock high mass bridge has a wider screw spacing, so the 1st, 2nd, 4th, and 5th screw holes have been filled and re-drilled to allow a BBOT bridge to be fitted. The BBOT and stock bridge are included in the sale. The bridge cover is included as well and I'm sure I can find a couple of screws in my box to fit it with. The wriring has been replaced with CTS pots, Orange Drop cap and Switchcraft jack socket with cloth covered wiring. The stock pickup is fitted, as is the tug bar and some new flat top knobs. Also includes the neck plate and screws. EDIT: I checked and it's not an Orange Drop cap, it's a little green one that was repurposed from a KiOgon wiring loom. Any questions, just let me know. Price is £150 plus shipping (about 15 quid with UPS or Parcelforce)
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That doesn't sound right, every neck I've had that adjusts at the heel has allowed me to take it out. Skip to about 1 min on this video to see what I mean, maybe I'm not explaining it very well.
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Most of the information I gleaned before trying it, I got from on here! A few people I'd spoken to had recommended heating the neck. My methods were far from professional; I stuck it in a low-temp oven for a couple of hours to heat it, but it seems to have done the trick. That particular tip came from Talkbass I think.
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I've had the neck clamped twice previously but without applying any heat to it. Previously the truss rod was maxxed and I couldn't take the forward bow out. This time, I applied heat to it before clamping it into a back bow and leaving it to take the new position. Before putting the X-head adjuster back in, I chucked in a couple of washers that a mate had machined for me. When I strung it up again, the strings were bottomed-out all the way up the neck; it still had too much back-bow, which was something I'd not encountered after previous attempts. I slackened off the truss rod a touch and have managed to get it to the Fender-recommended amount of relief, which I've not been able to achieve before. I'm going to keep an eye on it over the next few days and see how it holds up, but this was a last-ditch attempt to save it before it was scrapped. I'm not getting carried away, but hopefully this time it works.
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On a heel end-adjustable truss rod, if you turn the cross-head adjuster to the left and keep going, it comes right out. Similarly if you tighten it, it goes further into the neck. Not my neck but you get the idea: Maybe 'nut' isn't the right word, but as I said in the post above, I figured it out for myself and have it working correctly.
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Yes, I meant back bow. This is what I was doing: I'd slackened the truss rod right off and taken the adjuster out before heating and clamping, I just wasn't sure how far in I should be screwing the adjuster before taking it out of the clamp. I've sorted it now though.
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I posted on here a while ago about a bass neck that had too much relief and couldn't be straightened with the truss rod. I had it clamped a few months ago without heat and it's still got a bit too much relief. I've applied some heat to it today and currently have it clamped into a forward bow; the idea being that the heat makes the neck more pliable, and as the neck cools, it should help to set in the forward bow until string tension is applied. I slackened off the truss rod nut before heating it; should I be screwing the nut right in while it's clamped? Also, how far in should the nut go? If I screw it as far as I can get it, it's about 5 or 6mm in from the end of the neck. Thanks in advance.
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I think both options are available. I was considering getting a set for my JV Precision. The bass is very light but the tuners give it a bit of neck dive due to the weight.
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I had an MIC CV50s Precision; the white blonde version. I had taken it in a trade and didn't get much use out of it before selling it on, but my overriding memories of it were that it was well made, nicely finished, played well and had an absolutely enormous neck - definitely one of the fattest necks I've had. The small-handed need not apply. I wasn't keen on the colour of the neck lacquer; it was quite pale compared to the Matt Freeman and CV 60s Precisions I had at the time. I'd quite like one of the MIC butterscotch blonde ones as I like the darker, tinted lacquer. I find that the newer Indonesian CVs are too dark.
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I played in a band that tuned to C# Standard for a few years, and for that I used a 5 string set - D' Addarios with a .130 as the bottom string. Anything lighter felt too flappy. I even tried a set of Newtones that were designed for detuning, but they were pretty rubbish IMO.
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That's one of the original early-to-mid-00s Mark Hoppus signatures, and they all came with a rosewood fretboard. They were available in Surf Green (above), Daphne Blue, and Shell Pink. They did a revised version a few years later that had the pickup reversed, and had the truss rod adjustment at the need rather than the headstock. I'm sure they were all rosewood fretboard as well.
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Do you have too much relief in the neck at the moment? Loosening the truss rod nut, clamping it into a back-bow, and re-fitting the nut might solve the issue, if I'm understanding it correctly.
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Why would neck holes need to be re-drilled?
Jono Bolton replied to Jono Bolton's topic in Repairs and Technical
Yep, after posting and the initial disappointment subsiding, it occurred to me that the bridge should hopefully cover any difference in the position of the neck. The neck could also be the same position on both bodies, but the screw holes in the pocket are in different positions, so the scale isn't actually affected. The existing screw holes in the heel are stripped slightly so having them filled and new ones drilled is probably a sound idea. -
Hopefully someone can help me out with something I'm struggling to get my head around. I bought a P Bass body recently and went to fit the neck I'm using (Squier SQ Precision). I put all the neck screws in place and when I turned it over, the heel of the neck was about 2-3mm away from the end of the pocket. I took the screws out and moved it back and it's a nice, tight fit, so the holes in the heel of the neck will need to be filled and redrilled. The neck had previously been on another body (Squier CV) and everything lined up correctly when I put it together. Similarly, last week I was doing a bit of experimentation and swapped around the necks of my basses. The necks of my SQ/CV and my Matt Freeman Precision were interchangeable, but the holes in the pocket of my JV Precision were miles away from the holes in the heels of the SQ and MF. I know that I'm swapping different necks from different models, but I wouldn't have thought that there would be such a difference in the position of the holes in the heels and the pockets. In my mind, the SQ neck would be sitting further back in the new body than it was in the CV, and in turn would impact the scale length and the intonation. Is just a case of the screw holes in the neck pocket of the new body have been drilled slightly too far forward? Am I overthinking it because I'm annoyed that it's not a direct fit?
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These were mine, I think. They came installed in a bass I'm restoring and sound very nice, but I'd already had plans to use a Creamery pickup, otherwise I'd have kept them in.
