Jono Bolton

A friend of mine bought a Squier Bass VI with an aluminium neck from EGC a couple of years ago.

I'm looking to transplant everything from my Matt Freeman, so it'd be sunburst, gold guard, tinted maple neck.

Settle down now lads, you'll make me end up doing it.

The one I was looking at is sunburst

On the 10-hole, "original" pickguards, there isn't a screw beside the volume and tone knobs as there is in yours; there's just one screw in the middle of where those two would be.

Bugger. That's what was done to my Matt Freeman, but I was hoping to avoid having to do it again.

Does anyone have any first-hand experience of fitting one of these to a MIM Standard P Bass? I have the scratchplate, and had been looking at a MIM P Bass body I'd seen for sale, but my concern is the position of the screw hole between the volume and tone knobs; on my Squier Matt Freeman, the screw hole sat over the control cavity, and a plug had to be fitted to allow a screw hole to be drilled. Can I expect the same with a MIM body? The routing on a Classic 50s/Vintera P Bass is different to the Standards/Player Precisions.

I've never been a big user of nickels, if I'm not using flats then Pro Steels are my string of choice.

The alignment of the strings over the pickup is off on the D and G strings, but fine on the E and A. I've tried moving them around into different grooves on the saddles but it's not making a huge difference. I'd prefer to have just one groove per saddle anyway, but the Hosco was a good price and had a good rep.

It wasn't so much the different features available on a bridge, it was more of an "is the Kluson/Fender option really worth 4 times as much as the no name one" sort of question.

Are these all much of a muchness? I'm looking for a bridge for my P Bass; it's currently wearing a Hosco threaded-saddle bridge which isn't really doing it for me. Looking at the various options, there are cheap, no-name ones which can be had for under a tenner, or a genuine Fender or Kluson one costs about 40 quid. There are Gotoh ones priced in between those options, but they either have a curved base plate, or are higher mass, like the 201, which isn't what I'm after. The Wilkinson bridge has that awful logo stamped on it. What's the best option for standard, BBOT, single-groove saddled bridge, or is there very little in it?

I've got Dunlop flats on both my P Basses. The first set I bought has some sort of coating on the black silks so that they don't fray, but the second set, bought from the same shop, don't have the coating. I was a bit annoyed, because the coating is a great idea IMO.

1mm Blue Dunlop Tortex. I've used them for years and can't use anything else.

I bought a set of these from guitar guitar earlier in the year, and they're great, but I bought another set a month or so ago and they feel a lot stiffer to play. The first set I bought had some sort of coating over the silks, whereas the second set doesn't, which leads me to believe that the first set are newer and the second set are older stock. As the packages are sealed, is there a way to tell what you're getting?

I'll be honest, I didn't know such a thing existed until now. I'm not sure that if have the space though, the plan was to have vertical hangers on different walls.

I'm looking to get a couple of wall hangers so that I don't have my instruments laying around the house. I've bought some Hercules hangers but my issue with them is that they stick out quite a bit from the wall, even the ones with the metal bracket, rather than the wooden mount. Ideally I'd like something that sits in a bit closer, but it also needs to securely hold the bass; I've got a cat who would I know would be elated at having something new to paw at, and I don't want him to be able to knock them off.

Thanks for all the replies so far. I've been thinking about this a bit more; is adding washers to the truss the right way to go here? I've screwed the truss nut in as far as I can, and there's still a bit too much of a bow; it's a tiny bit more than I'm aiming for, but the truss has definitely reached it's max. Would I be better off taking the nut/adjuster out and trying to clamp the neck straight or in a back bow before adding the nut back in? I watched Dan Erlewine's video on clamping an old Tele bass neck, and he didn't seem to leave it clamped for any length of time. Is it as quick and easy as it appears?