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Everything posted by Jono Bolton
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Thanks for all the replies. I took my cab to practice today (for the first time since I got my Peavey head I now realise) and it's safe to say the drivers aren't going anywhere; even though I'm probably getting less than 200 watts out of it it's ridiculously loud and the PA drivers handle the lows, mods and highs better than any driver I've used before. 15s can be quite bassy and muddy but the cab is one of the clearest I've heard. If only it weren't so bloody cumbersome!
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I had the same problem (there's a thread about it on here) but after a month or so of trying to get the bugger out I gave up and just bought a new bridge.
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[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1468525052' post='3091602'] just looked at the cab in your gear, is it the Peavey that matches the Mk IV head, I used to have one of those, They came with two Black Widow 15's with the metal domes if it is the same cab which gave quite a nice bright tone. If it is then the dimensions are a bit off. [/quote] Yep, it is the cab that goes with the head. There were two versions; mine is the shallow version, but there was a larger, deeper version which was more common. Mine would have originally had BWs but the ones from this cab are long gone.
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The weight isn't my main concern, it's mostly the sound and also the impedance; a lot of our gigs involve cab sharing and I'd rather have a standard impedance like 4 ohms than 6, especially if anyone brings something with valves. I'd also get more power from my head by doing so. It would be nice if the cab was lighter but it's never going to be a one-man lift either way so it'd be nice to have but isn't a deciding factor.
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Sorry chaps, I'm not very au fait with this sort of stuff. The front grill is a pain in the arse to get off but luckily I found the following over on Talkbass: "Internally, each chamber of the cab is 12" deep, 24" wide, and about 18.5" tall. Each port is 7"x7"x9" and the speaker baffle is 3/4" thick." The ports are triangular cutouts.
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I've got a 2x15 cab and have given some thought to replacing the speakers; at the moment it has two 3 ohm PA subs, wired to 6 ohms. It sounds good, but it weighs a ton with the cast frames. Ideally I'd like to have it wired to 4 ohms, and to lose a bit of weight from it; in terms of sound I'd like it to be as clear as possible as I use a pretty low tuning and 15s can end up getting a bit muddy and boomy. Any suggestions?
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I used one for a couple of gigs back in May while my head was being repaired and I hated it. I spent a good while trying to dial in a tone I liked on the first night and came up with nothing, so the following night I just plugged in and played. It sounded better the second night but still not to my liking. I was using my Precision and the bassist from the band we were playing with was using a Jazz and it sounded better.
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Hi all, Selling a Squier Classic Vibe High Mass bridge - you all know the one. It's in good condition and works fine BUT one of the height screws has rusted inside the saddle (you can read about it here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/285464-rusted-bridge-and-a-seized-screw/."]http://basschat.co.u...-seized-screw/).[/url] I've tried my best and can't get it out but someone with more skill/time/patience/tools than I have may be able to get it out. I found that the height was fine as it was but if you want the ability to adjust it you'll need to do a wee bit of work. I'll include some generic height screws that fit the threads so if you do get it out you can drop one straight in and you're away. I'll try and get some photos up this evening. Looking for £10 plus postage.
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Rusted bridge and a seized screw
Jono Bolton replied to Jono Bolton's topic in Repairs and Technical
It's sorted now, shortly after I posted I found a replacement on eBay! Bit the bullet and bought it. -
Rusted bridge and a seized screw
Jono Bolton replied to Jono Bolton's topic in Repairs and Technical
Well, the screw is still firmly in the saddle. I've soaked it in WD40, I've tried heating it and none of the shops round me have penetrating oil. Brute force hasn't worked as my pliers can't grip the screw well enough and I've stripped the hole in the top of it too. Fender say I've got to buy a whole new bridge and because of the screw spacing on the base plate there are no direct replacements. Is there anything else I can't try to get it loose? -
Worst musical equipment monetary loss you taken
Jono Bolton replied to Twincam's topic in General Discussion
I reckon my Peavey Foundation was the biggest loss I've taken on any music gear. I paid nearly £200 for a 90s one which was already over the odds and when it arrived the body was in pretty horrible nick. After several attempts to try and fix it up myself I ended up buying an early 80s body & bridge from the States; I forget how much it cost but probably close to £100 with shipping etc. I could never get it set up quite right and eventually sold it for £125 which was pretty depressing. Peaveys are well regarded but they always seem to sell for a lot less than they're probably worth - good for a buyer but bad for a seller. -
If it's a Squier Vintage Modified P5 (there aren't any Classic Vibe fivers as far as I know), the machine heads are the same as those on the Mexican Standards. Some Squiers have smaller headstocks, but I think the VMs would have the same headstock size as a Fender; I know both my CV and Matt Freeman do. Looking at the 4-string version, there's more than enough room for the Wilkinsons but they'd not fit on the 5-string.