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Jono Bolton

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Jono Bolton

  1. I'm leaning towards shell pink at the minute, but do I need two pink basses?
  2. These are the sort of things that keep me up at night, Ped.
  3. Black and blonde for reference:
  4. I put this together at the end of last year after I bought a Fender Roadworn 50s Precision neck in the Black Friday sale. I was going for a '57 vibe but the body is a Fender MIJ 70s P body in 3-tone sunburst, which isn't strictly accurate. Initially I was going to go for black, though I've swayed towards blonde, and 2-tone sunburst, although there is a visible join and change in grain between the 2 pieces of the body. I like the idea of Shell Pink, but I've already refinished my JV Precision in the same colour. I love Sonic Blue, but it's also not strictly correct for the period. If I'm refinishing it, then the options are limitless really, so I thought I'd canvas opinion on here and see if there are any suggestions that I haven't thought of myself.
  5. I sold Ander a mint pickguard for his P Bass. He paid quickly and was very easy to deal with.
  6. That's neat. I don't think I've ever seen a white one; I thought the 57s only came in 2-tone sunburst or black.
  7. The Classic Vibes had a sticker on the pickguard cling film, but I don't recall if the Vintage Modifieds also did: Vintage Modified and Classic Vibe were just the names of two of Squier's ranges of instruments. VMs were made in Indonesia, and CVs were made in China, and in my experience, the Classic Vibes were better quality, but a bit more expensive. A few years ago Squier disconnected the Vintage Modified range, and moved production of the CVs to Indonesia, so the current Classic Vibes are somewhere between the original Classic Vibes and Vintage Modifieds of 10-15 years ago. Also, only Squiers were with Vintage Modified or Classic Vibe, Fenders weren't (although the Fender Modern Player range were made in the same factory as the Classic Vibes were)
  8. Jono Bolton

    NBD

    I had a Matt Freeman in both colours. I sold the black one a while ago, and the white one last year. I wish I'd kept one of them, they're excellent basses.
  9. I think it is the picture. The E is the same distance from the edge all the way down the fretboard, whereas you can see the G is closer to the edge of the fretboard at the heel than it is at the nut as you look down the neck:
  10. Yes, I probably worded it incorrectly; the spacing seems fine, but it's over to the left as you look at it. What makes you say it's not fitted straight? It seems fine to me in the flesh, so it could just be the picture.
  11. As far as I can tell, what's the best way to check? The body is a Fender CIJ PB70 Reissue, so it was already drilled for the bridge holes.
  12. I tried to get the picture as 'flat' as I could so there wasn't any camera angle-related distortion. The E is an even distance from the edge of the fretboard all the way down the neck, whereas the G is nearer to the edge of the neck at the heel than it is at the nut
  13. I think I already know the answer, but I thought I'd see what the consensus is. I put together a P Bass around Christmas time and took it into a local shop a few weeks ago to do the final setup on it. The neck is a new Fender 50s Road Worn Precision neck, and the only job I couldn't do myself was filing the nut slots. The nut came with guide slots in it, but I don't have the tools or the know-how to file them down. I picked the bass up on my lunch break today and tried it out briefly in the shop; it played ok and sounded good, so I paid and left. When I got it home and was able to give it a more thorough inspection, the G is really far in from the edge of the fretboard. On the other side, the E is really close to the edge. The spacing is fine at the bridge and the alignment of the neck to the body is good too. Does the nut need re-doing?
  14. Ditto. Mine had been under the bed for a while so I sold it, and while I was giving it a once over before packing it up, I immediately regretted taking the cash.
  15. They're just like that. I have two sets of JV tuners; one on my JV, and one on my current build, and neither sit perfectly flat, even though both headstocks have the divots drilled out to accommodate the tuners
  16. D'addario Chromes, .045-.100. I bought these from here recently but I got my measurements wrong and these won't fit a Fender 4-in-a-line headstock; the G is too short. I think they'd suit a 2-a-side headstock best as the winds are going clockwise on the D and G strings. Some wear to the silks but otherwise in good nick. Yours for the cost of postage. Lengths in cm from the original ad: E - 101 A - 103 D - 110 G -110
  17. I think £400 for my Squier Bass VI might be the most I've spent on a brand new bass. I've had very few new instruments, they've almost all been second hand. I think the most I've paid of any bass is £700 on a MIJ Precision. My JV Precision was less than that but the work I've done on it puts the total cost of it higher than the MIJ.
  18. David's a wizard
  19. Which model/models are you referring to? Any Squier FSR I've seen has always been a standard instrument in a limited run finish. The FSR Bass VI, Jaguars and Jazzmasters that Andertons usually have are made in the same factory as the standard models.
  20. Looks like raised A pole-pieces on the sunburst one in that link too
  21. Looks like there's a gap at the bottom on each of the tuners there
  22. The tuners on my JV Precision are the originals and they don't sit flush to the headstock. I don't recall ever seeing a date on the neck either, but I would need to check to be certain.
  23. I've missed a few of the replies to this; pleased to report that the screws went into the heel with no issues. When I was looking at the screw holes, I thought they looked far too narrow, but on doing some further research, they were standard size, so I went for it the screws went straight in.
  24. I regret selling mine
  25. There wasn't on the one that I had
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