Kiwi

If you can't sort it out with the truss rod, take out the plastic fret fillers and put maple/ash veneer in. If that doesn't sort it then other options are: A new and very thick fingerboard from ebony, pau ferro, gonzales or similar dense hardwood A stainless steel fingerboard on top of the old one. and/or reinforcement using stainless steel or graphite composite rods in the neck.

He's a bit like a master chef of luthiers to me. Always uses the best ingredients and pushes the boundaries a little.

Andy can always do you something that suits if one of the standard offerings doesn't. I love the pickups, they're very honest.

[url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/152124-pre-cbs-guitar-cloning-possible.html#post1714912"]http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/152124-pre-cbs-guitar-cloning-possible.html#post1714912[/url] Found quite a bit of information here, as it happens.

Hi there, I've been planning around the idea of building a bass body and have some wood to make a first start. I'm hoping it will have a spector/warwick like radiussed top which presents its own set of issues that maybe I'll ask for advice on when I'm closer to that point. Right now however I'm focussed on template creation.[list] [*]Do I need a smooth edge on any MDF template that I create after its been sawn out of the flat sheet? [/list][list] [*]If so, whats the best way of getting that smooth edge without having access to a drum sander? 80 grade sandpaper? [/list][list] [*]How much other information should I include on the template apart from body outline? Is it worth including neck pocket, pickup locations etc? [/list][list] [*]How did you get the neck pocket to line up perfectly on the centre axis of the template? [/list] Many thanks!

My understanding is that sensitivity varies across frequencies. However my EBS cabs are rated at 103dB and I have great results with my 140w Burman valve heads through them. Conversely I've had poor results for a pair of Acme B2 cabs rated at 98dB. Yes the ratings are general but they've been OK to work by for me.

I'd suggest something that has a bit of sensitivity if you need a little volume. Don't go for anything less than 100dB. Alexclaber or others will probably talk about excursion and cone area.

[url="http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006wqr1"]http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006wqr1[/url] Amazingly enough, even I can listen to it.

[quote name='Wally' timestamp='1319842635' post='1419367'] Jonah Lumo. [/quote] Tsk...Lomu.

Peavey make some great power amps, their Class D stuff produced in the mid 80's was way ahead of its time. I'll agree about the weight issue for cabs and combos. I wanted very much to like their instruments as they're well designed but I have never been happy with their pickups.

I have[quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1319822788' post='1419075'] what makes this worse is that somebody was filming it and posted it on youtube....and no I'm not going to post it here. [/quote] I had a look but too many youtube videos of that gig to go through and the sound quality isn't the best...I think you're safe.

I have one, but it can be replicated easily enough. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/157331-akai-uni-bass-now-found-thanks-for-all-of-your-help/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/157331-akai-uni-bass-now-found-thanks-for-all-of-your-help/[/url]

[quote name='Gust0o' timestamp='1319792994' post='1418569'] I've not quite managed to turn up without the bass, but I'm sure that that time will come. [/quote] I did that. S'what happens when someone helps load the car. Not the most embarrassing moment, I've been on stage with trouser flies open before.

The NYC has previously been percieved as the poor cousin to the New York basses. I wonder whether they're trying to boost the profile of the range? Jamiroquai remind me a little of Level 42 around the mid 90's.

Could you please post a screen dump? What OS and browser are you using?

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1319550507' post='1415614'] Yeah Will do.... I bought it as we are covering Jacksons 'P.Y.T' Should do the trick ;o) [/quote] Nice track - a hidden gem, got any more recommendations?

[quote name='Vibrating G String' timestamp='1319438587' post='1413966'] I've never seen any pro want a flat board with string under tension, I've never done it that way myself but then I've only been doing fret jobs since 1985 [/quote] Well maybe it's possible there might be a different and better way of doing things. I do my own set ups too. The stiffer the neck, the easier it is to get good results with the strings off. I'd prefer not to be dragged into taking a polarised debate on the matter to be honest. [quote name='Vibrating G String' timestamp='1319438587' post='1413966'] Which is what you're doing when you tighten it to get a flat neck under string tension.Which is why you don't want to do it when you're leveling frets. [/quote] Well I disagree and my way works really well for getting low action, do you have a problem with that?

[quote name='Vibrating G String' timestamp='1319427246' post='1413947'] No, you're supposed to get a flat board with no string tension. [/quote] Not quite true, you're supposed to get frets presenting a level surface to the underside of the strings WHILE the neck under tension. If a player wishes more or or less relief they can set the height at the 12th fret with a truss rod but it really shouldn't really be necessary if the fret job is done well. The neck relief should just be set once for a particular gauge of strings and left. Action is set using the bridge saddles as normal to taste. [quote name='Vibrating G String' timestamp='1319427246' post='1413947'] When you flatten a board with string tension you get backbow in the neck. [/quote] Only if you tighten too much. [quote name='Vibrating G String' timestamp='1319427246' post='141394] If you do this with heavy strings and then switch to lighter tension you don't have enough truss rod to back off any more, also you loose the range of the truss rod to deal with humidity changes. Backbow kills necks, front bow is easily fixed by truss rods.[/quote] It's worth highlighting that its unlikely a player will ever tighten the neck on their instruments to such extremes. Also, many modern basses have dual action truss rods which means they will deal with tension in either direction. Stick two of them in a neck and you have not only the ability to deal with twist but the ability to set the amount of resistance to string tension on each side of the neck.

BTW I've played Lakland basses in shops and the action is what I'd call 'medium', I don't know where the claims about precision come from. The lowest action I've ever played consistently has been on Status Series 2000 basses. Yes the graphite construction helped a lot but it set the standard for other instruments [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1319368483' post='1413106'] My reading of it is it puts tension on the neck. Then measures the neck then the operator selects the profile and away it goes. [/quote] The profiles are wrong, based on an over simplification of bending characteristics. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1319368483' post='1413106'] You seem to be saying they have too measurements from a non descript piece of wood [/quote] The wood is irrelevant to why the plek machine doesn't work very well.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1319367532' post='1413080'] It's putting the force of the strings into the neck whilst it's in the plek machine. So how is that a facsimile?? [/quote] Its computing the difference of two measurements and presuming different conditions. You're an engineer, you should be familiar with the principle of ground truthing. The plek machine assumes a consistent concave curve. A convenient mathematical principle. The neck is typically is an S curve. An inconvenient reality

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1319365530' post='1413032'] Looking at the vid. It puts tension on the neck to mimic strings and then dresses the frets. [/quote] It says it mimics strings but it doesn't. It measures the neck under tension It measures the neck under no tension. It computes the difference between the two measurements and ASSUMES A [b]CONCAVE[/b] CURVE. That curve is based on a mathematical facsmile of wood. The facsmile assumes a consistent structural deformation. Wood and a truss rod in a real neck doesn't deform in a structurally consistent way. Its an S bend more or less. Please let me know if I'm not making it simple enough.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1319363789' post='1412992'] The neck just sees tension it doesn't see strings and go "oh here I'm strung I must bend like this" Or "oh I have a machine simulating strings so I must bend like that" [/quote] Think of a neck as a piece of foam. Imagine that you have the piece of foam thinner at one end than it is at the other. Like a bass guitar neck. Imagine that the foam is denser at one end than the other (ie more bubbles vs less bubbles) Like a bass guitar neck with a truss rod. Now imagine whether it bends consistently or not. A bass neck bends MORE around the 7th fret and less around the 15th-19th fret. Plek doesn't imagine that at all. It assumes the neck is a consistent width and density, without a truss rod. If the Plek system was to work properly, it would take a measurement of the neck under tension, then a measurement of the neck not under tension, then bend the neck to original tension without strings so it could be machine levelled flat. The algorithm it uses to calculate bend is based on a over simplified engineering formula and not on what actually happens to bass necks under tension.

[quote name='cocco' timestamp='1317511946' post='1391501'] Good luck finding a black eagle. I've never seen one in the flesh, or for sale, not many were made I don't think. Im an eagle lover too! I dont understand the pickup choice though, krist was all about proper Gibson buckers as per the ripper and RD basses. Also surprised it's not a ripper shape. Not that I'm not stoked that it's an RD! [/quote] POS basses. Seriously. Some of us are old enough to remember playing them when they were new and they were planks. Honestly, if someone in an indie/goth/metal band started playing a Steinberger XL2A, I [s]swear[/s] hope the prices would double. A fool and his money...

If you took away the name and the body shape... what would be left? What would your money buy?

You're not so foncused. NZ time is 12 hours ahead, apart from Daylight saving when its 13 hours ahead for a brief period.