Kiwi

[i]Features:[/i] This 34” scale instrument was made in 1984 at the Musicman factory in California. I bought it off Ebay, the bass had some provenance in that the serial was already included on Rod Trussbroken’s database of serial numbers so I felt confident that it hadn’t been created out of spare parts as can sometimes be the case. The bass has 22 frets and 4 strings with an black plastic pickguard and is finished in solid white. For the age, the bass is in remarkably good condition, it looks to have been gigged only in limited amounts. The bass is active and has two humbucker pickups and a stock MM 2 band eq. The neck pickup differs in design to the bridge pickup in that the magnets are smaller and in 4 pairs like a jazz pickup rather than single fat pole pieces like the standard MM humbucker. This might explain why the pickups are hidden under plastic covers rather than exposed as in the stingray. The controls feature one volume, a later edition stratocaster-style 5 way pickup selector switch with a treble and bass control. Earlier models featured a 3 way selector switch including separate switches for coil phasing and treble boost. The body is made from alder or ash and features no date stamp but the neck pocket has the initials GG and EV in pencil. The bass has a body style is the same as the sabre shape so features body chamfers in contrast to the slab bodied pre-EB stingray. The neck joint has 4 bolts and doesn’t have the microtilt feature from the 3 bolt models. The neck dimensions are a cross between a jazz and precision bass in width although The neck has a slight bow in it – at least to me and I’m used to playing basses with very straight necks. Others perhaps with stronger hands find the action and playing height very comfortable. I can play the bass without any problem but for faster passages moving up the neck I definitely prefer lower action. The bridge is standard Musicman Sabre issue, which is very substantial and almost horseshoe shaped. Its of very different construction compared to the plate based design of the stingray bridge but they share two dimensions of movement and top loaded string anchoring. The tuners are classic fender type open backed clover leaf types with conventional gearing. The bass didn’t come with a case but normally I would expect to see it with a hardshell plastic tapered musicman case. The plastic on these cases gets brittle with age and has been known to crack, particularly around the hinges. [i]Sound:[/i] The sound of this bass could is very versatile, as versatile as a jazz bass and the sounds are, on the whole, warmer and fuller. The pickups selector has a series of very illogical settings based on the coils numbered 1+2 (bridge pup) and 3+4 (neck pup). All the coils are wired in parallel, similar to Smith basses. Position (bridge to neck) 1) coil 3 2) coils 1&2&3 3) coils 1&2 4) coils 1&2&3&4 5) coils 3&4 I‘ve grown to really like this bass in a short space of time and my experience gigging with it has made me wonder if Sabres are not highly under rated for what they offer. I guess the looks are a little bit half way between a fender and a stingray and the body is a tad smaller than a stingray too. The only criticism I would make is that I felt the neck pickup could probably be a little fuller. Maybe I should put it closer to the strings but I’ve heard some talk about the neck pick up exerting some string pull and truncating sustain somewhat. I haven’t yet sensed that although I do have the neck pickup further from the strings at the moment. At the moment I use the bass with Gallien Krueger and Trace valve amps through Gallien Krueger 2x10 and EBS neo 2x12 cabs. It sounds superb through both amps, particularly growly through the GK set up. It also sounds very full through the V8 but I haven’t gigged at full volume with the V8 yet. [i]Action Fit and Finish:[/i] The action of this instrument is fairly high for my tastes primarily due to a preset bow in the neck. The feel of this bass however is consistent with the feel of my Cutlass 1 bass. I can’t help but think that if the necks had been manufactured with wooden fingerboards, it would have avoided many of the issues but there again hindsight is a wonderful thing. These graphite necks were produced at a time when there was an abundance of optimism and less understanding than currently exists for composite necks. Otherwise, the finish of components is very good and the bass looks in good condition for an instrument of 1984 vintage. [i]Reliability/Durability:[/i] The bass has proven very reliable so far but I’ve only gigged it once. When I recieved the bass, coil number three didn’t work but Andy from Wizard pickups performed a (very) quick rewind on it and the bass performs very well now. The hardware is robust and the neck stable doesn’t seem to flex much. Apart from the issue of action, there have been no issues with the performance of the instrument whatsoever. [i]Customer Support:[/i] Its fair to say there’s absolutely none available. Ernie Ball doesn’t stock preEB parts and holds no information on preEB basses. [i]Overall rating:[/i] I own a range of other bass gear including Smiths, Musicmans, an Alembic, a Celinder Update P and Pedulla, plus more stuff I’ve sold on. As already mentioned, I think this is an very versatile bass even though it often plays second fiddle to its more idiosyncratic sister bass, the Cutlass I. I note that the neck pickup on HH stingrays also sounds a bit weedy as well. I’m not sure what can be done to remedy this but I’d say that as a player bass, the Cutlass II is way more versatile than a Cutlass I and probably the superior gigging bass. It can do everything the Cutlass I can and then some. I kind of wish they made a 5 string version of the sabre but I guess that’s what the HH SR5 does these days.

[quote name='PaulMartin' post='172411' date='Apr 8 2008, 04:57 PM']I don't think you can really lay down rules about minimum numbers of posts or length of time as a member but it's annoying and feels like people are taking the p1ss when they just come on here to flog stuff. It would be nice if they had the manners to introduce themselves.[/quote] I understand that completely too, but what can realistically be done? Like I said, if you don't trust the person don't buy from them. The fact that SOME members do buy from them suggests there's at least a demand from within the membership, surely?

The cost of a step down transformer can vary substantially, depending on the power rating it has. I wish I could remember where I got the one I used with my SWR Bass350... ...someone on BW bought it off me.

aiii respec bruv! welcome an' all

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='172335' date='Apr 8 2008, 03:37 PM']Unlike fleabay we have no way of verifying anything about newbie sellers. I'm not about to part with my hard earned to a complete stranger but there may well be a few on here who are a bit less thorough in their vetting of a bass related item or its seller. I'm well aware that there are those who will shout let the buyer be ware etc and tough luck if you're fool enough to part with your dosh without seeing/collecting it BUT we are a bit of a bass community... aren't we?[/quote] Indeed we are but this whole issue is a bit complicated. What happens when something goes wrong? Who gets blamed? The basic premise of 'caveat emptor' doesn't change regardless of what safeguards are put in place because a foolproof system doesn't exist. Regardless of however you look at it, everyone takes on a responsibility of assessing their own exposure to risk - thats why the existing feedback forum works how it does. Even if we we operated a members only bass club where someone is recommended and seconded before membership is approved, that isn't any guarantee. If you're not comfortable trusting someone then common sense suggests that you either don't do business with them, or you reach some kind of arrangement whereby you have a recourse if things don't go as well as expected. For example, face to face meeting at the sellers house so you can check the item over to your satisfaction before you leave with it. If members start assuming a degree of safety on this forum because its a community, then that places an obligation of responsibility ON the community to look after the seller. Next thing we know there are vigilante groups on witch hunts like there was on the Dudepit and all sorts of unnecessary drama, name calling, bruised egos, tiaras, tantrums, lawsuits, tsunamis, volcanoes, tornados and coachloads of smurf headed UN personnel prodding the aftermath etc. Oh, and its probably going to be a less pleasant place to use. As I've said time and time again, if you have some concerns about a seller drop one of the mods a PM. We can check them out on other forums and stuff, then approach them offline with questions. If you have a small group of sellers you trust, that's great but what we can't have happening is people being lynched for posting stuff just because they're new and a potential threat. They may actually have the best of intentions and it would be detrimental in the long run to assume all [url="http://www.thisisalocalshop.com"]"non-locals"[/url] are threatening. Phatmonkey is looking at a form of enhanced feedback system within the range of modules this forum can host but its a very basic system and isn't going to safeguard against abuse or retaliatory feedback. At the end of the day its probably not going to be a massive improvement on the feedback forum we already have.

The classifieds are a major way of generating traffic for the site, especially in search engines, and often how people first get introduced to the forum. Not to mention that some stuff gets advertised here that never makes it to Ebay. I can't see the cause for your concern, can you expand on it?

As a suggestion there's a Trace Twin Valve combo on ebay right now which is a reasonable price but its only 100w. Have a look for 70's English valve heads by [url="http://www.amps-n-bits.com/tube-amplifier-heads/sound-city-tube-amplifier-heads/Sound-City-100-mk3-custom-built(2)/Sound-City-100-mk3-custom-built.JPG"]Sound City[/url], [url="http://www.twotribesmusic.co.uk/inventory/images/151_small-Burman%20heads%20fr_s.jpg"]Burman[/url], Wallace, [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=1098"]Simms Watts[/url] or [url="http://www2.uiah.fi/~jlummaa/superbass.jpg"]Marshall (Super Bass head)[/url]. Don't discount old [url="http://www.amps-n-bits.com/tube-amplifier-heads/simms-watts-tube-amplifier-heads/simms-watts-super-a.p-200/simms-watts-tube-amp-head-super-ap.-200-1.jpg"]PA heads[/url] as well, but they can be bastard heavy to load in and out of venues. Most of these heads are around 100-200w so you'll need to pair them with either a [url="http://www.twotribesmusic.co.uk/inventory/images/243_small-Orange-cabs-x-7-+-OR-120_s.gif"]monster 70's cab with multiple drivers [/url](eg. a 4x12) or you could look for an ultra sensitive (say 103dB) modern cab to get the best out of them. Alternatively if your budget can stretch, keep an eye out for the older Trace valve stuff like the [url="http://www.bassline.ch/produkte/bilder/div_pix/te_va350.jpg"]VA350[/url] or VA400, Mesa Boogie Buster combo (200w - the Gallery have one at the moment), or even the [url="http://i6.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/d6/57/3753_1.JPG"]Peavey Alphabass[/url] head. Whether any of this stuff will make you go WOW is a matter of taste though

[quote name='beerdragon' post='171891' date='Apr 7 2008, 11:05 PM']I don't think the posters were commenting on the quality of stuff made in China crazykiwi. just the politics going on at the moment.[/quote] In the context of bass equipment? OK, whatever. All I'll say is that if people wanted to exercise a no-chinese-manufacture policy in respect of their purchase decisions, they'd probably find themselves making more sacrifices than they bargained for.

lovely stuff, I agree with beedster, you need a flatwounded loaded p-bass

Its threads like this that tend to invite xenophobic comments. Just because something is chinese made doesn't mean its crap. The chinese are actually capable of stunning levels of craftsmanship, but thats NOT why manufacturers choose the country to supply product. At the end of the day, quality control BY THE MANUFACTURER is the most important influence on levels of quality, so if you're getting crap product, then place the blame squarely at the foot of the manufacturer, not the country. Warwick's Rock Bass is made in China and the build quality in terms of fit and finish is up there with any of the higher range Warwicks.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='171831' date='Apr 7 2008, 10:17 PM']or Bill Fitzfinnbass about sensitivity if you need to know more.[/quote] Sorry, that should be Bill Fitzmaurice.

[quote name='d-basser' post='171777' date='Apr 7 2008, 09:25 PM']should the cab really be spilling its guts at low volume, as I say until any of my bands get of their arse and practice/gig then it is bedroom volume. I'll try and find spec though, how sensitive is insensitive?[/quote] look the spec up on the peavey website maybe? Usually anything below 99dB is towards insensitive, and anything above 100dB is towards sensitive. My EBS cab is 103db which is as sensitive as I've found. Sensitive cabs can be used with a wider range of power ratings. For example I could look at gigging with my 140w Burman heads with this cab because it more 'receptive' to the output - at least to my ears. With the Acmes (rated at 93dB) it made those heads sound like they were 30w. I'd recommend you PM Alex Claber or Bill Fitzfinnbass about sensitivity if you need to know more.

[quote name='d-basser' post='171787' date='Apr 7 2008, 09:34 PM']i hate you for posting the cause now i really want it[/quote] Aww yeah, dats da basschat love right there.

I doubt Sting needs anything that Fender can throw at him - even money.

how sensitive is the cab? If the head is spilling its guts into an insensitive/inefficient cab, that might be a problem too. I had the same issue with my Acmes, thats why I switched to EBS. If there's distortion as a signal tails off, that would suggest to me that something isn't pulling its weight power wise in the signal chain.

[quote name='d-basser' post='171740' date='Apr 7 2008, 08:35 PM']right so distorion could be a sign of the valve being 'on its way out'. i will swap and see if that fixes it, i have tried it with two basses on passive and one active so it aint the bass. Any suggestions of a nice preamp valve for a Fafner or should i just replace it with the same again[/quote] Well there's such a lot of variety with valves that sometimes its a question of taste because you can get a variety of outputs from compatible valves. Thing is that a preamp valve very rarely wears out, and usually after a number of YEARS of use. Luckily they're not expensive and having a back up isn't a bad thing anyway. So probably get one to replace the existing. I'm presuming you're not using an active bass then?

[quote]\"spy in the cab\" by Bauhaus the single note on the bass sounds like a tuned drum [/quote] [quote]There are 5 notes in that! A slide at 2:16, followed by E, D, C, B (well, maybe... I wasn\'t paying THAT much attention)[/quote] LOL, I was wondering how long it would be until someone mentioned Bauhaus. Nice work Sirs! (Tsk, get your tags sorted though )

best thing to do is have a butchers at the valve while you're playing through the amp. If you see any visual change (especially blue flashing), yellow hot elements or excessive heat then the valve on its way out. Additionally if you hear any reduced output of any kind or distortion or basically any other kind of deficiency then the valve is also on its way out. Cheaper than taking it to a tech is probably replace the valve. However, are you playing with an active bass? If so, then I recommend you check the battery in the active eq first.

[quote name='Doc B' post='171623' date='Apr 7 2008, 05:34 PM']I use both - my Status Groove has a graphite neck[/quote] Blimey, that's something special. Any chance of some pics in the bass porn section?

Good stuff, don't forget we're talking the actual smallest total number of notes played though the song, not the variety. So 1 note per bar counts more than 4 notes I still think Montego Bay is up there, but Peekaboo seems to have the lead at the moment.

I use both, it depends on the sound I want. I do like graphite necks live though, they sound more aggressive which makes it easier to hear them. Plus the solid, rigid neck means a nice low action (if the neck has been constructed properly) and that gives me superb control over the qualities of the note because I'm not fighting the bass so much. I like wooden necks for sweeter sounds and a more organic feel, maybe in less demanding environments or for specific tones like motown choonz. Doesn't mean to say you can't get a graphite neck to sound sweet either, if you use a little compression or put it through a tube amp.

you tube clips? to embed them just put youtube in [*here*] then clip number eg i41W-NIjMfs (not the whole URL) [/*and youtube here*]

[quote name='jakesbass' post='171435' date='Apr 7 2008, 02:04 PM']How's your reading?[/quote] I can read but verrrry slowly. Its not been one of those things that there's not been a lot of demand for since leaving high school