umph

[quote name='fretmeister' post='1023690' date='Nov 14 2010, 06:22 PM']Missus crashed her car at the same time mine failed the MOT. Not a good week.[/quote] sucks to hear that, also intrested in the wav 4 to

om nom, this is gonna be good

[quote name='icastle' post='1023458' date='Nov 14 2010, 02:54 PM']Not come across them before. Big range of components there but some of their components are twice the price of bitsbox unless you are buying 10 at a time. I'd perhaps use them for the more obscure components that bitsbox don't supply.[/quote] give bob a message he can order stuff in

[quote name='Floyd Pepper' post='1022195' date='Nov 13 2010, 09:32 AM']Yep, I know it's all in the fingers! Just wondered what others are using and what experiences you have. Cheers[/quote] i found a 30watt valve head more than enough for a funk gig

gone with a red tint will post pictures on monday ;o

fs lowballed the dude and won it.

Forgot to take a picture after i'd finished all the sanding but heres some with the first few coats of laquer on! Now the question is do i keep it natural or still add the red tint.

[quote name='pantherairsoft' post='1012155' date='Nov 4 2010, 03:11 PM']I think I'm likely to go down the multi-effect route now by the looks of things (see separate thread), as among the other sounds I need, I'd be able to dial in 2 dirt tones easy.[/quote] What dirt sounds are you after do you have examples? You should get in touch with someone building you two effects into one box.

saw this when it came out, the death by audio guys are nuts and the bjfe guy is actually a mad scientist! great stuff

[quote name='dincz' post='1017921' date='Nov 9 2010, 06:24 PM']No. It's standard practice in medium and high power valve equipment (audio amps, radio transmitters etc) to allow valves to heat up before switching on the high tension. If they aren't given time to warm up, the valves' cathodes can be damaged, severely shortening their life.[/quote] that just doesn't happen in the kind've valves you using in guitar amps. It's a must must for the big transmitter valves where the cathode is directly coupled to the heater etc.

[quote name='BurritoBass' post='1017845' date='Nov 9 2010, 04:53 PM']Any ideas people? I plugged it in for soundcheck and there was an almighty bang. The cab and cables were all fine. I now get an intermittent signal with the bass sounding quieter, the bass sounding like a flanger is plugged in and the volume going up and down but much quieter than it should be. It was my second head as I mainly use a vintage valve head but this is / was good for smaller gigs. My friend who knows a bit seemed to think it might be a dry joint? Either way it's 15yrs old and sounds like I won't be repairing it[/quote] sounds like one half of the output stage has gone, not ideal. could be pretty expensive to fix

1. lin would be ideal 2. [url="http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_ig_dcjack.gif?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a"]http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagra...68044a841b3e85a[/url] This would be the best option for the llama 3. Go for whatever size you feel comfortable putting it in but it should fit in a boss sized one easily. 4. You could play around around with the size of the 51pf and 100pf caps making them larger or smaller to make the circuit more or less bright, other than that bigger input cap although at the minute, it should cover all usable frequencys. You could also decrease the size of the input resistor to increases brightness / gain if you wanted.

[quote name='skej21' post='1015606' date='Nov 7 2010, 07:47 PM']Why is it theory VERSUS groove. Surely I'm not the only bassist on here that can do both, and at the same time? In fact, it's impossible to groove without theory and it's impossible to understand theory without being able to put it into practice. You have to at least understand SOME of the theory (even subconciously) behind how a bass works/how your fingers produce the sound in order to groove, so your argument is fundamentally flawed. This thread might as well be called "Trolling versus Sh**stirring, which one is best?"[/quote] +1

you should combine the two, saying that i only know my scales really. Some of the players around here are sh*t hot and they're sh*t hot on the theory to

[quote name='BigBeatNut' post='1014031' date='Nov 6 2010, 10:03 AM']I may just get back to you re the stomp box builder. Yeah, I have considered building it, might go that route too ... only thing stopping me is that last time I did anything remotely like that that was 30+ years ago, so I'd need to acquire all the gear for doing it (I don't have a ready stash of resistors, caps, switches, sockets etc). Where do people get this stuff these days ... Maplins ?[/quote] aye maplins is a good bet, or www.bitsbox.co.uk if you don't mind using the interwebs to order things.

[quote name='Big Mick' post='1012742' date='Nov 4 2010, 11:30 PM']Only cos I've already got them in the extension cab. I'd probably have the brightness pretty much dialed out anyway, but it would make the cab more versatile. Cheers, Mick [/quote] Slightly confused, you'd be better off just following the original fearful plans, or going for the tall boy. There really wouldn't be an advantage to running a pair of 8's full range and if you did cross them over they'd dominate the 15, assuming you're using ones of a similar sensitivity

intrested in why you want to use two 8's over a single 6 in the fearful design? Thats gonna end up extremely bright.

Spent most of today shaping the body etc. have got some sanding to get done over the weekend now. Will post more pictures when i've cleaned it up a bit more!