umph

[quote name='Conan' post='688775' date='Dec 18 2009, 11:52 PM']Anyway, to jump back to the earlier part of the thread (I haven't quite worked out how to do "quotes" yet on here!)... A better word to use instead of "gain" would be "attenuation", wouldn't it? In other words, zero attenuation equals letting the maximum signal through rather than restricting it in any way...? Or maybe I'm wrong? [/quote] gain is voltage gain.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIWATT-OX-100-EX-JOHN-ENTWISTLE-CUSTOM-100-/260606501274?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item3cad5ba19a"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIWATT-OX-100-EX-JOH...=item3cad5ba19a[/url]

tidy? the normal simmwatts stuff is normally up to hiwatt standard! I think the one up for grabs may be an early example though.

theres a whole hoast of pedals out there, are you intrested in any sounds in particular?

[quote name='JackLondon' post='841710' date='May 19 2010, 09:18 AM']Hi Chaps, I've built a fuzz face for my guitarist but he says that it's not ''beefy'' enough, I use schematic from here [url="http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p1620_The-Face-Germanium---Fuzz-kit.html/XTCsid/39234f691992d87833cb450a8ffe5743"]http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...3cb450a8ffe5743[/url] So my question is what should I change to make it more beefy sounding, I assume it will be the cap C1 which is 2.2uF, should I change it something bigger like 4.7uF ? Will this sort it out or would you say I should change some other parts as well ? Cheers Jack[/quote] personally change r4 for a 1.5k and change the fuzz pot for a 2k, also as said try increasing the output cap to anything up to 1uf and i'd personally LOWER the input cap makes the whole circuit sound less farty and more open, which makes it sound less compressed and more crunchy ie. beefy

[quote name='andytoad' post='840256' date='May 17 2010, 09:53 PM']Hi all, I need some advice.. I have just bought my first valve amp, its a trace elliot quatra valve. as you probably know, it runs at 4 or 8 ohms. I like the sound of SWR cabs, so... to go with this I have an SWR son of bertha (1x15 + horn @ 8 ohm) and a modded 2x10 SWR cab running at 2 ohm. Is this ok to run the amp at 4 ohm like this? or will i soon be looking for new valves??!! I would link the 1x15 through the 2x10. should i rewire the 2x10 to 8 ohm? thanking you all kindly in advance... im now on the all valve dream, yay!![/quote] nice buy, i'd rewire both the cabs to the same impedence for a whole hoast of reasons.

did you just stick a random port in or did you tune it properly to the drivers? Nice work by the way

[quote name='bobbass4k' post='838349' date='May 15 2010, 07:24 PM'][kyuss nerd] Yea, He used his Ovation Ultra Hard Body GP's pretty much exclusivey once kyuss got going, and he played through bass amps quite a lot because they played in C standard and it just sounded better. Not sure about the amps, but Scott reeder and Nick oliveri used Sunn's and Ampegs so I imagine he used those at some point [/kyuss nerd] To actually answer the wuestion, I play my guitar through my bass rig all the time and it sounds great.[/quote] was sunn i'm sure, there multi purpose not bass amps ;o Guitar will sound great through a bass amp, maybe a little to clean and hifi for most peoples tastes though!

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='837351' date='May 14 2010, 04:20 PM']Nothing that will change the tone there other than the gain pot which will allow for more gain that the click switch does. Maybe the caps on the bass but they mentioned that they tried it and it didn't add anything but no one needs 30hz I said well I use a low A so can we try it.[/quote] personally i quite like the staged gain control. Most speakers dont get down to 50Hz let alone 30 so your not gonna hear a huge difference soundwise. Most of what you hear in your bass sound is the 2nd harmonic theres not a whole lot of fundemental in there!

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='837316' date='May 14 2010, 03:52 PM']As sent to Matamp [b]Amp internals[/b] Slave output (I’ll provide db,v and ohm shortly, unless we can tune this around completion) Standard output on DI with a view to possibly removing the pot and resistor. Preset switch to switch depth, bass, treble and presence controls to internal trim pots. Gain and volume to stay controlled on the front panel Preset switch to be labelled as TaySte If possible I’d like the preset switch to be a big heavy duty one like the power switch located next to either Power or Standby Switch to turn front panel light off Standard depth control but extra caps to allow for more bass from the Low A I play. Gain is to be a pot not 4 position click [b]Aesthetics[/b] Red headcase with chrome hardware inc front handles (This should be sat around from before Bassday) Blackface plate with red writing Glowing Green Matamp logo (The 3d cinemascope one [url="http://file017b.bebo.com/4/large/2006/09/27/12/12216502a2118822541b795756287l.jpg)"]http://file017b.bebo.com/4/large/2006/09/2...795756287l.jpg)[/url] But it only has to glow in 2d. Custom made for Ste “TaySte” Taylor Circles around inputs to be red Hi Lo inputs to be renamed Active Passive depending on which one has the resistor on it[/quote] intresting sounds like quite a reworking you've gone for!

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='834345' date='May 11 2010, 04:07 PM']Not wanting to alter tone at this point, I was assuming the smoothing cap influences the amount of clipping to change the overdrive/distortion characteristics, not cut the high frequencies. The cap is put in series with the antiparallel clipping diodes.[/quote] series? this is in a dod250 sort of arrangement right? that'll just affect the frequency of which the clipping will effect, in this case a small cap is gonna make it just effect the high highs (again you can work this out with the rc filter calculator i linked to)