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umph
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Everything posted by umph
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your talking about adding a lowpass at the end of the circuit, use this to calculate the ideal cutoff point - [url="http://www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htm"]http://www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htm[/url]. resistance is the size of the level pot roughly.
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[quote name='dood' post='834013' date='May 11 2010, 10:21 AM']Well, to be clear,I didn't call them cheap or crap - but in comparison to today's high end gear - in this world of SMT and D-Class, it's hardly , to use Chris_B's analogy , the Mercedes with all the bells and whistles on. That's not to say there is anything wrong with that - I was just trying to make a comparison, t'is all.[/quote] different hourses for different courses. Can't beat valves from audio in my opinion.
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[quote name='BassBunny' post='833747' date='May 10 2010, 10:57 PM']High end gear - are we kidding ourselves? Alan, probably. I rehearsed with a Jazz/Fusion band I've just joined in a real flea-pit of a room. Backline provided....................... Turned out to be an old H&H PA head and a 2x10 Cab that was that battered you couldn't tell what make it was, (although I suspect Peavey) Sounded absolutely bloody awesome and that was with the cheapest bass in my collection. Even the other band members made comments. I felt like trying to "borrow" the rig as there was so much stuff, they would never have noticed. (and then flog all the other basses I have )[/quote] H&H stuff has always had a bit of a charm to it.
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[quote name='dood' post='833725' date='May 10 2010, 10:32 PM']Probably not now - but back then, hence ' from the past'. Sure, they're not cheap now![/quote] hiwatts and ampegs were never cheap they were top bollock stuff back in the day to!
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[quote name='dood' post='833689' date='May 10 2010, 09:54 PM']Although, I have to counteract that by suggesting that some of the most unmistakeably great recorded bass tones from the past *have* come from some pretty shabby gear! JJ Burnell and his broken cones, Entwhistle's old cranked Hiwatts and the Ampeg B15 - brilliant for recording but far from hi end Only joshing of course - at the end of the day, boring as it is - if it sounds great, it is great! - Another example of great tone on a budget would be the Fender Showman / Alembic F1x / Trace V-type / BBE T-Max / Hartke LH preamps - dead simple, no flashy components - sounds absolutely magnificent![/quote] ampeg b15 and hiwatts are low end? There price doesn't seem to say so!
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they are some serious chops
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do you have any pictures of the work carried out by music ground? -
nice if i manage to shift my current one i'll have that off you! -
[quote name='SS73' post='828771' date='May 5 2010, 06:30 PM']There was such a thing as a Ric cab with a 32 inch speaker get down low.[/quote] yeah was about to say i hope its that one! I think there may be a reason why rickenbacker didn't delve to heavily into amps.
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wouldn't recomend pulling valves for less power it doesn't work like people hope it will. If you want less power buy a smaller amp.
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do want -
hiya, do you have any pictures of the top of the chassis? Would you mind saying who the tech is aswell and could you point out which caps have been changed most of those look very era accurate. -
[quote name='Bassassin' post='824525' date='May 1 2010, 01:01 AM']When the recession stopped people spunking outrageous amounts on "proper" vintage stuff. Can't take the GAS away! J.[/quote] true the price of valve amps has gone nuts aswell! even the homebrew type ones are fetching silly money now!
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bah i want this totally can't afford it at the minute though unless your intrested in obtaining some amps? ;o -
woah didn't realise one had gone for 365 on ebay recently, guess that one was in alot better nick than this one. When did japcrap get so expensive?
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i think this may be sold already payment pending!
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[quote name='Ancient Mariner' post='824100' date='Apr 30 2010, 02:28 PM']I've built an experimental preamp with a switch to change from conventional cap + resistor to LED bias, and the LEDs give a more aggressive tone with a bit more drive. Might be want you want to help cut through but you might also find it a bit hard-edged..[/quote] LEDS give full gain at all frequencys, where as the conventional resitor + cap can prove to be a slow slow in the low and high end. just had a thought it may be worth dropping the anode loads down to 47k it'll lower the gain but it'll make things sound more tubey and less shrill or harsh.
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there are a few mods i'd recomend to these kind've amps that i've been working on for my circuit. Replace both of the cathode bypass resistor / caps with a Super bright red Led + 0.1uf cap, Replace c3 and c9 with 47n. From there you could increase the size of r4, 13 and 17 to attenuate more highs but there already very large. Also as has already been said replacing c2 with anything up to about 1000uf is always a good call or implanting an auto bias system!
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[quote name='MythSte' post='823592' date='Apr 30 2010, 12:13 AM']SS amps, Gain to clip level, the volume with master, With valve amps when i want a little grit, I crank the master right up then adjust volume/destruction with the gain.[/quote] thats the wrong way to go about getting grit unless your obviously playing the gain on near full aswell
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recently got this bass decided its not for me, doesn't really do the sound i'm after. This bass is a fairly decent bass and very flexible sound wise; It's neck through so has great sustain and a deep tone. Has an active circuit which works like a sweepable frequency boost which can be turned off so it can be used as passive aswell All the hardware is brass and the control cavity is fully shielded so it's a quiet bass. The pickups have adjustable pole pieces so string balance isn't an issue. heres a link to the original thread including pictures [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83774&st=0&p=800268&#entry800268"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83774&st=0&p=800268&#entry800268 ://http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?sho...p;#entry800268 [/url] and a link to the manual explaining what all the switches do [url="http://www.westone.info/manual1/index.html"]http://www.westone.info/manual1/index.html[/url] unfortunatly the series / parallel switch is broken but can still be adjusted with a pair of long nose pliers, i was going to replace this but havn't got around to it since i just stuck it in series and called it a day. I can fix this for you if you wish for the parts cost etc. This bass comes with a hardcase and i'm looking for around 180 or open to trades for jazz type basses.
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ey up guessing you've done the obvious like changing the battery? do you have any pictures of it? the one in my bass hasn't been gooped and is quite servicable
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[quote name='Beedster' post='823044' date='Apr 29 2010, 02:16 PM']I'm increasingly moving from hi gain/lo master to the opposite on both my heads. The sound isn't hugely different, I just prefer it for some reason. In the old days it was all gain and little master. C[/quote] less noise with the low gain high master approach aswell, it's definatly the way to go if you want clean.
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depends what your after soundwise if its clean - master on full then adjust volume with gain. If it's distortion gain to taste and master for volume
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How many valve amp owners carry a spare head in case of emergencies?
umph replied to Delberthot's topic in Amps and Cabs
[quote name='tayste_2000' post='820420' date='Apr 27 2010, 11:14 AM']Fuses are a must with a valve amp if anything going to start popping showing the early signs of a problem it will be fuses. I blew 2 kettle leads at the start of my tour with my 400+, then it fired up normally and not a had a problem since so I put it down to cheap kettle leads.[/quote] how'd you blow a kettle lead? to small fuse in it? i don't take spare amps to gigs never had a problem with an amp yet touch wood. Not sure where this myth that valve amps tend to explode in massive plumes of smoke and kill all the small children and animals within 5miles came from. -
[quote name='p58' post='815595' date='Apr 22 2010, 11:01 PM']friend of mine is proud owner of vintage 100 w Hiwatt (DD104 i think). it´s a killer amp, especialy with big cab. We tested it on svt 8x10 and it was pure rock power. but there´s a big BUT for me...it´s "only" 100 w so it has not so much headroom for clean and deep sound. It can be agressive, loud, great distorted and cutting thru everything, but it can´t be soft and polite. maybe 200w versions with more headroom will be much better. Orange is great amp with no dipsute, I think that most of the amps are great and it is only about preferences of the one player.[/quote] check out the vba400 and some of the 400 watter hiwatt do they might be more down your street if your after huge low end.