umph

[quote name='Mizzle' post='816159' date='Apr 23 2010, 01:24 PM']Hi all, I asked about this amp quite some time ago and now after a few months have received it, I think I forgot how loud this thing is just a quick few questions to anyone else who has one. 1) What exactly does the presence knob do? (seems to add more bass when turned to the right maybe like a mid-scoop?) 2) Are the 'Hi' and 'Low' inputs active/passive inputs? 3) Anyone got a fuzz/distortion sound out of it if yes what kind of settings did you use? Other than that please enjoy the pics [/quote] nice one dude, presense is normally a high end boost around about 1.5 - 2k. But i think if its anything like the older matamps it'll work more like a boost. hi and low are like active and passive inputs. best way to get distortion is to turn the gain up and crank it! hope you enjoy your new amp.

hiya i think it should be fairly easy to modify and replace the DIN socket with jack ones, i could carry out this work if you'd like?

your looking at aboot 700 to 1300 depending on condition

[quote name='Musicman20' post='809081' date='Apr 17 2010, 12:24 AM']Orange, or Matamp. I personally love the Orange. I chose Orange over Ampeg SVT CL and VR due to a good hour test where the Orange won me over. Plus, it can do 8 ohms, doesn't weigh as much as the Ampegs, looks awesome and the tube grind is purely awese even at low levels if you want it.[/quote] personally i'd avoid the new orange / ampeg type stuff when you can get something handbuilt with much higher quality of components with a better warranty and higher reliability for the same price or less.

marshall superbass / matamp gt200 / ampeg v4 and barefaced vintage / big one etc. much better quality much more cooler.

hotrox is worth a visit

[quote name='cheddatom' post='807308' date='Apr 15 2010, 04:25 PM']That doesn't make sense to me. Every amp is different with a different frequency response, so while one amp might require you turn up the mids, another might not, and they could easily both be valve amps. I understand that nothing "quite" works like a valve, but IMHO technology has come so far as to make them redundant. Perhaps you do want that "natural warmth" that a valve gives you, but it might be cheaper and easier to get your EQ and compression/OD right, or use a modeller. Likewise it's perfectly possible to make a totally "transparent" valve amp, with absolutely no "natural warmth". I know loads of people will disagree, but i've not yet read anything rational about why SS can't do what valves can. It's a big like an argument we had about modelling. There was one member on here who claimed they could tell what kind of amp someone was playing from OUTSIDE a venue. It just doesn't make any sense. There's EQ on the bass, there could be pedals, compressors, all sorts of different cabs etc. Some people are just irrational.[/quote] it's to do with the way valves produce harmonics it's very hard to capture with modelling although there have been some good efforts such as some of the sansamp pedals. Nothing comes close tone wise to kt88s though in my opinion

[quote name='Musicman20' post='806755' date='Apr 15 2010, 12:37 AM']Absolutely agree, especially with the Orange comment I love my small amps, but I'll just keep the orange stack anyway. Nothing sound like it. Luckily it can do 8 ohms and it's not as heavy as an SVT![/quote] the orange amps in the 80s were very very different to the ones nowadays. I love valves i've never been able to nail a good tone out of most SS amps i've tried.

take it to a tech and ask to sit in its a 5min job.

jacks loose?

[quote name='Rumple' post='805304' date='Apr 13 2010, 08:21 PM']Many thanks umph I'll give that a go, where would be a good place to get hold of a pair of matched valves? Watford Valves any good?[/quote] i've no experience with them but i hear there quite good. I've always used Hotrox for valves and they've always been fairly decent and the chap that runs them is quite a nice guy.

[quote name='Rumple' post='805098' date='Apr 13 2010, 05:35 PM']Am I right in thinking then that it would be OK with bass at a low practice volume but not when pushed hard and the label is just Selmer covering their r's? it's a keyboard amp so it must have to handle a certain amount of bass notes.[/quote] transformers in that amp will be more than fine with bass and so will the rest of the components. Sounds like you've got a duff valve. My advice is get a new set of WELL matched valves stick them in it and pluck away since these amps have a set bias anyway so you can't adjust it.

don't see why you'd have any problem with it.

[quote name='JackLondon' post='800814' date='Apr 9 2010, 01:24 PM']Hi All, Yeah I posted in on diystompboxes.com and so far they've told me to check off board wiring which I did and it seems fine to me, here's the schematic for wiring I've followed : [attachment=46805:wiring.jpg] This is the picture of the box : [attachment=46806:IMG_0204.JPG] There can't be any problems with shorts as the circuits sits on 2 standoffs and a bit of foam, there's signal on C4 and R1 but's it's so quiet that it is almost impossible to hear. I'm now thinking about the IC's as someone said that pin 7 should be 0V and pin 14 should at least a couple of V, having read the build reports on tonepad I think that my IC's are the ones that are reported as non-working in this circuit. [/quote] output from switch is going to the ground tag on the output jack. Personally i'd recomend redoing the wiring, remember the shorter the better it'll kill most of the noise to.

always wanted to try an eub may have to give this one a shot! When will they be available?

Not bothered about them having partidge / mullard valves i just hope this revival keeps up the same standards as the old amps i.e no compromise.

i'd really go for the 100watt selmer treble and bass head over an orange, i'm fairly sure the bassist used them on the recordings for converge or one of those bands, they totally rip when cranked specially if you got a 8X10 to go with it or similar large cab!

i really really hope these are the same quality as the old ones.

i have really bad gas for a bass VI or similar type instrument at the minute and was wondering what're my options that are going to cost under a grand. I already know about the schecter and the burns ones just wondering if there was anything else similar about!

selmer treble and bass 100watt version.

[quote name='Alien' post='792810' date='Apr 1 2010, 12:55 AM']OK, here goes... Class A - Can't think of many bass amps that run in class A, other than small amps with one-transistor power stages, such as the Peavey Microbass. Valve wise, it tends to be restricted to small guitar amps (under 10 watts or so). Think Fender Champ, Vox AC4, Epiphone Valve Jr. Class B - Not commonly used for instrument amps because they need to be perfectly set up to minimise crossover distortion. Can't think of any off the top of my head. Class AB - Here's the richest vein of amps. Most bass amps fall into this class. Hartke, Peavey, Trace Elliot, G-K etc. Class AB valve amps include the Ampeg SVT, Trace V8 and the Mesa Boogie 400+. Class D - Most of the new breed of super lightweight amps are class D. Markbass, Ashdown Superfly, Genz Benz Shuttle and the like. Class H - The only class H bass amp I can think of is the Marshall 7200/7400 Dynamic Bass range. Hope this helps A[/quote] svt is ab2